Hub question
#1
Hub question
I'm looking for a wheelset to replace what I've got on my raleigh...I want to replace the 27" wheels with 700c...the brakes reach. The rear spacing is 120mm.
Whats my best bet to replace with if I want to keep the 5 speed cassette that i've got on the rear?
I've thought of a few options, i'm sure there's good ones i've missed though.
a. Reuse my existing hub (its in good shape) and lace up new rims. (I'd have to learn how to build a wheel)
b. Buy an inexpensive pre-built wheelset that can accept a 5 speed thread on cassette and re-space the rear to 120mm
c. Can I thread my 5 speed cassette on a 120mm Single Speed Track hub? Those are available everywhere on the cheap.
d. cold set the frame to take modern hub sizes (seems like a last resort)
Keep in mind I don't own any wheelbuilding equipment like a truing stand or dish gauge and I've never so much as replaced my own spoke but I do want to learn and i'm more willing to spend money on wheelbuilding equipment than on labor costs at my LBS to have it done for me.
any help would be much appreciated.
Whats my best bet to replace with if I want to keep the 5 speed cassette that i've got on the rear?
I've thought of a few options, i'm sure there's good ones i've missed though.
a. Reuse my existing hub (its in good shape) and lace up new rims. (I'd have to learn how to build a wheel)
b. Buy an inexpensive pre-built wheelset that can accept a 5 speed thread on cassette and re-space the rear to 120mm
c. Can I thread my 5 speed cassette on a 120mm Single Speed Track hub? Those are available everywhere on the cheap.
d. cold set the frame to take modern hub sizes (seems like a last resort)
Keep in mind I don't own any wheelbuilding equipment like a truing stand or dish gauge and I've never so much as replaced my own spoke but I do want to learn and i'm more willing to spend money on wheelbuilding equipment than on labor costs at my LBS to have it done for me.
any help would be much appreciated.
#2
Decrepit Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 10,488
Likes: 92
From: Santa Rosa, California
Bikes: Waterford 953 RS-22, several Paramounts
Answer = a.
I was in more or less the same position a couple of years ago with my '72 Paramount, but the wheels had tubular rims and I wanted 700c clinchers. I took the plunge and bought a Spin Doctor Truing Stand and a Park Tool Tension Meter, and downloaded the e-book Professional Guide to Wheelbuilding, by Roger Musson. I used my original Campy Record high flange hubs, and laced them to Mavic Open Pro rims using DT Swiss stainless 2.0/1.8/2.0 double-butted Competition spokes.
It was one of the most satisfying experiences I've ever had, and I've built several more wheel sets since then.
I was in more or less the same position a couple of years ago with my '72 Paramount, but the wheels had tubular rims and I wanted 700c clinchers. I took the plunge and bought a Spin Doctor Truing Stand and a Park Tool Tension Meter, and downloaded the e-book Professional Guide to Wheelbuilding, by Roger Musson. I used my original Campy Record high flange hubs, and laced them to Mavic Open Pro rims using DT Swiss stainless 2.0/1.8/2.0 double-butted Competition spokes.
It was one of the most satisfying experiences I've ever had, and I've built several more wheel sets since then.
#4
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 17,687
Likes: 12
From: n.w. superdrome
Bikes: 1 trek, serotta, rih, de Reus, Pogliaghi and finally a Zieleman! and got a DeRosa
absolutely choose A.
As Scooper says there is nothing more satisfying then riding a set of wheels that you
built yourself. For economy you can find lots of how to build wheels on the web
here's a good start:
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
you do need a truing stand, and the spin doctor or minoura stands are a good deal.
If you have a good LBS you can build the wheels, get them round and true and have the
LBS check the tension. Thats what I did for my first few builds.
of course there are always options e and f
e) have LBS build wheels using existing hubs and new rims
f) but old wheels off ebay!
I still would opt for A.
Marty
As Scooper says there is nothing more satisfying then riding a set of wheels that you
built yourself. For economy you can find lots of how to build wheels on the web
here's a good start:
https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
you do need a truing stand, and the spin doctor or minoura stands are a good deal.
If you have a good LBS you can build the wheels, get them round and true and have the
LBS check the tension. Thats what I did for my first few builds.
of course there are always options e and f
e) have LBS build wheels using existing hubs and new rims
f) but old wheels off ebay!
I still would opt for A.
Marty
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#5
Thanks for the replies folks. I've been leaning towards option A as well.
I did consider option E, but i'd spend about the same on wheelbuilding tools and i'd kinda like to have those anyhow.
Also considered option F...thats my other question...can I thread a 5 speed freewheel cassette to a single speed 120mm track hub?
I did consider option E, but i'd spend about the same on wheelbuilding tools and i'd kinda like to have those anyhow.
Also considered option F...thats my other question...can I thread a 5 speed freewheel cassette to a single speed 120mm track hub?
#7
A track hub will have a different size threaded area. When people say they
have a Single Speed bike they usually are referring to a single speed freewheel
on a freewheel hub. If they say they have a Fixed Gear they are usually referring
to fixed gear on a track hub - this won't work with a 5 speed freewheel.
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville, TN
Bikes: Klein
There is another option which you might call a.(1). That is to lace the wheels yourself, and then take the laced wheels to a LBS for final tension and truing.
I have a set of Campagnolo NR hubs laced with DT spokes to a pair of Mavic GP4 rims. I laced the wheels with just enough tension to hold the hubs securely, then took to a LBS for dishing, tensioning, and truing. That was about 1985 and I"m still using the wheels.
But honestly, I would buy the equipment and build the wheels myself.
I have a set of Campagnolo NR hubs laced with DT spokes to a pair of Mavic GP4 rims. I laced the wheels with just enough tension to hold the hubs securely, then took to a LBS for dishing, tensioning, and truing. That was about 1985 and I"m still using the wheels.
But honestly, I would buy the equipment and build the wheels myself.
#9
Another vote for a. I would try to build the wheel and if for some reason you can't get it correct, take it to your LBS for a wheel true. I love building/truing wheels, especially my own wheels. I just sit down and take my sweet time with them. Same when I volunteer at the Co-op. I like truing wheels at work, but for some odd reason, it isn't as satisfying. With that all said, our shop only charges $8.00 for a wheel true. Building a wheel is $45.00 for labor plus parts. As you can see, it would be a lot cheaper if you lace it up first.
#10
What are you referring to? You are mixing the semantics a bit and that makes it harder to answer your question. A freewheel hub will work with a 5 speed freewheel. People will put a single speed freewheel on a 120 freewheel hub.
A track hub will have a different size threaded area. When people say they
have a Single Speed bike they usually are referring to a single speed freewheel
on a freewheel hub. If they say they have a Fixed Gear they are usually referring
to fixed gear on a track hub - this won't work with a 5 speed freewheel.
A track hub will have a different size threaded area. When people say they
have a Single Speed bike they usually are referring to a single speed freewheel
on a freewheel hub. If they say they have a Fixed Gear they are usually referring
to fixed gear on a track hub - this won't work with a 5 speed freewheel.
I meant to say A freewheel Hub with a 5 Speed Freewheel, not a track hub.
I've got another related question. When I put the old rear wheel on my bike tonight I noticed that when i've got the wheel set straight in the dropouts, it sits about 5mm off center to the left. I checked it against another rear hub I have, both are 120mm spacing, and the other hub sits dead center in the dropouts. It looks like the Outer Lock Nuts are spaced differently on the two.
How do I fix this?
is there an article anyone can point me to please?
#11
Decrepit Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 10,488
Likes: 92
From: Santa Rosa, California
Bikes: Waterford 953 RS-22, several Paramounts
Park Tool has a pretty good article on the subject.








