Wheel Building - New spokes
#3
RE******

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 119
Likes: 2
As long as you're replacing it with an identical hub, or a hub with the holes in the flange at an identical height, then there's really no problem reusing spokes, assuming that they aren't visually damaged.
https://yarchive.net/bike/spoke_reuse.html
https://yarchive.net/bike/spoke_reuse.html
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,768
Likes: 10
Bikes: Cinelli, Paramount, Raleigh, Carlton, Zeus, Gemniani, Frejus, Legnano, Pinarello, Falcon
As long as you're replacing it with an identical hub, or a hub with the holes in the flange at an identical height, then there's really no problem reusing spokes, assuming that they aren't visually damaged.
https://yarchive.net/bike/spoke_reuse.html
https://yarchive.net/bike/spoke_reuse.html
I guarantee if you respoke a wheel with completely removed spokes going into new positions with new stresses you'll suffer many breaking...
#6
vintage road bike addict
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: san diego
I've only redone a handful of wheels,
but i've noticed when using new spokes,
that the thread revolutions are usually even and equal.
It really makes cinching it up easier since you can count tightening revolutions and depend on them to be truer. (moreso anyway)
The few i've done with used spokes have enough stretched or twisted that it adds alot of unnecessary time making it true.
I guess its good practice though!
Also i've never re-used stainless steel spokes which probably don't stick like the old galvanized type when removed,
you know there's always one.
TP
but i've noticed when using new spokes,
that the thread revolutions are usually even and equal.
It really makes cinching it up easier since you can count tightening revolutions and depend on them to be truer. (moreso anyway)
The few i've done with used spokes have enough stretched or twisted that it adds alot of unnecessary time making it true.
I guess its good practice though!
Also i've never re-used stainless steel spokes which probably don't stick like the old galvanized type when removed,
you know there's always one.
TP
#7
I believe Brandt is talking about a wheel that simply has the rim replaced; spokes stay on the hub in the same position as already stressed. Basically you loosen the spokes, tape the new rim next to the old and transfer spokes to the new rim in the same positions.
I guarantee if you respoke a wheel with completely removed spokes going into new positions with new stresses you'll suffer many breaking...
I guarantee if you respoke a wheel with completely removed spokes going into new positions with new stresses you'll suffer many breaking...
I'm glad you can guarantee my wheels will have many broken spokes. Can you tell me when I can expect this to happen? So far, not one broken spoke on the wheels I am using now. I have occasionally taken my wheels apart and put back together. I find it much easier to really clean the hubs and spokes this way. I don't do this often. Just when cleaning the wheels and I just can't get them very clean. I don't number the spokes so that they will go back on the hub in the same place. Hell, I don't even separate them into trailing or leading spokes, drive side or non-drive side. Well, except for the shorter drive side on rear wheels.
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,768
Likes: 10
Bikes: Cinelli, Paramount, Raleigh, Carlton, Zeus, Gemniani, Frejus, Legnano, Pinarello, Falcon
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 88
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Guys thanks for the responses - the plan is to use a new but same type of hub with existing everything elses. I am planning on paying a bit of attention to leading and trailing spokes and taking note of which came from where.
A bit of history on the the wheel. Its pretty much perfectally true with the need for minor adjustment yearly at most. It is used for comuting - about 30,000 km old - the brake surfaces are fine and it has never suffered a soke failure so far.
Its my wifes bike so I don't want to take too many chances - if the spokes start to go pop I'll hear about it....
A bit of history on the the wheel. Its pretty much perfectally true with the need for minor adjustment yearly at most. It is used for comuting - about 30,000 km old - the brake surfaces are fine and it has never suffered a soke failure so far.
Its my wifes bike so I don't want to take too many chances - if the spokes start to go pop I'll hear about it....
#10
Chrome Freak
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 26
From: Kuna, ID
Bikes: 71 Chrome Paramount P13-9, 73 Opaque Blue Paramount P15, 74 Blue Mink Raleigh Pro, 91 Waterford Paramount, Holland Titanium x2
I have built several sets of wheels with reused spokes with absolutely no problems at all.
__________________
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
#11
Seņor Member



Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,487
Likes: 1,568
From: Hardy, VA
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
#12
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Firstly guys - thanks for all the advice. Your experience and knowledge is fantastic.
Wheel has probably 500km on it now, is running true and is as quiet as it had been for the last 30,000 odd kilometers. I was very happy not to throw out the spokes that had been fine for so long. I seemed like a complete waste.
Thanks again.
Regards
Paul
Wheel has probably 500km on it now, is running true and is as quiet as it had been for the last 30,000 odd kilometers. I was very happy not to throw out the spokes that had been fine for so long. I seemed like a complete waste.
Thanks again.
Regards
Paul
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 301
Likes: 4
From: Los Angeles, CA
Bikes: 85 Nishiki Riviera GT, 69 Schwinn Super Sport(fixed conversion), 80's Olmo Professionisti, 80's Univega Mixte
#14
Chrome Freak
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 26
From: Kuna, ID
Bikes: 71 Chrome Paramount P13-9, 73 Opaque Blue Paramount P15, 74 Blue Mink Raleigh Pro, 91 Waterford Paramount, Holland Titanium x2
Galvanized spokes don't shine like stainless steel ones do!
__________________
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
#16
Seņor Member



Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,487
Likes: 1,568
From: Hardy, VA
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
My reservation is totally a matter of aesthetics. If my intent were to create a beater, or to put an old MTB on the road - well no worries. If I want something that looks nice, galvanized loses.
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#18
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,518
Likes: 40
From: San Jose, California
Bikes: 2001 Tommasini Sintesi w/ Campagnolo Daytona 10 Speed
Can't believe how many people here are trying to spook the dude...
Damn...
Conditions to be met:
1. If spokes were properly tensioned (nice and tight) previously...
2. If spokes were generally evenly tensioned previously...
3. If previous wheel had a relatively unexciting life - no damage to any part of the wheel...
Go ahead try to reuse the spokes...on one condition:
THAT YOU PROPERLY TENSION THE SPOKES AGAIN! (Nice and tight and evenly tensioned in the general sense.)
That fact that this is a front wheel makes likelihood of success even better. With the exception of disc-brake wheels - front wheels rarely suffer spoke breakage.
Have reused spokes (generic and DT alike) easily a hundred plus times - used to take a selection of used wheels and do a salvage job for a shop.
With rear wheels - take into consideration how generic the generic spokes are. It's a judgement call with rear wheels. If the spokes are DT Swiss spokes - chances are that 99% of the time rebuilding the wheel will work out just fine.
=8-)
Damn...
Conditions to be met:
1. If spokes were properly tensioned (nice and tight) previously...
2. If spokes were generally evenly tensioned previously...
3. If previous wheel had a relatively unexciting life - no damage to any part of the wheel...
Go ahead try to reuse the spokes...on one condition:
THAT YOU PROPERLY TENSION THE SPOKES AGAIN! (Nice and tight and evenly tensioned in the general sense.)
That fact that this is a front wheel makes likelihood of success even better. With the exception of disc-brake wheels - front wheels rarely suffer spoke breakage.
Have reused spokes (generic and DT alike) easily a hundred plus times - used to take a selection of used wheels and do a salvage job for a shop.
With rear wheels - take into consideration how generic the generic spokes are. It's a judgement call with rear wheels. If the spokes are DT Swiss spokes - chances are that 99% of the time rebuilding the wheel will work out just fine.
=8-)
#19
Old Skeptic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 9
From: New Mexico, USA
Bikes: 19 road bikes & 1 Track bike
I've never had any problems with used spokes. Some of mine have been re-built onto wheels a few times and have over 30,000 miles on them now. Jobst Brandt happens to use his same old spokes whenever he replaces a worn out rim and simply leaves his in place on the old hub while re-lacing. I really don't worry about even using mine in the same position on a hub... and, still I've never had any problems with breaking any spokes at the J-hook end.
As mrrabbit emphasized, evenly tensioned wheels are strong wheels - which distribute any stresses evenly among the spokes. Just take your time and do it right and you won't have to worry about a wheel later. If you notice that any of the spoke nipples are damaged (rounded) you would definitely want to replace them right away when re-building a wheel... otherwise you may never be able to tighten them properly.
As mrrabbit emphasized, evenly tensioned wheels are strong wheels - which distribute any stresses evenly among the spokes. Just take your time and do it right and you won't have to worry about a wheel later. If you notice that any of the spoke nipples are damaged (rounded) you would definitely want to replace them right away when re-building a wheel... otherwise you may never be able to tighten them properly.
#20
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,518
Likes: 40
From: San Jose, California
Bikes: 2001 Tommasini Sintesi w/ Campagnolo Daytona 10 Speed
Thanks Stronglight...
Also want to poiint out to folks...I bet Stronglight agrees with this...
...Don't throw away used DT Swiss spokes that have held up fine in a previous wheel...they are great re-use spokes. Regardless of size, guage, butting - toss 'em in a drawer...you'll find a use for 'em eventually.
The wheels on my Tommasini were built with used 15g DT spokes...
=8-)
Also want to poiint out to folks...I bet Stronglight agrees with this...
...Don't throw away used DT Swiss spokes that have held up fine in a previous wheel...they are great re-use spokes. Regardless of size, guage, butting - toss 'em in a drawer...you'll find a use for 'em eventually.
The wheels on my Tommasini were built with used 15g DT spokes...
=8-)





