I was considering drilling and tapping the rear drop outs on the Viscount to accept screw-in adjusters. Anybody tried this? Or should I add it to the 'Not so good idea' file?

Top

Usually bikes that have the screw-in adjusters have the rear portion of the dropouts thickened for that purpose. Some frames have dropouts with the thickened area, but aren't drilled. If your bike is one of those, then there's no reason it can't be done; but be careful! I've never tried it. The difficulty would be in holding the work steady, and the steel is bound to be really hard, so slow drilling using oil, and letting it cool off, would be the way to do it.

I think I've seen a posting where someone was attempting this, and ended up with a broken drill bit in the dropout -- not good.

I'd suggest you opt for a different fix: find those U-shaped stamped metal slot-fillers that bolt into the dropout slot...anybody know what they're called? Much safer bet than trying to drill a straight hole the "hard way" thru a dropout, IMHO.

Wouldn't it be pretty hard to line up that long of a hole dead on straight? I am sure it could be done, but I would be very leery of doing it with typical home equipment. Thats a long hole to tap, also.

jim

aside from looking cool, do the screw adjusters do anything to merit possible frame damage?

to the op: don't do it

The adjusters hold the wheel at the front of the dropout where you want it. I guess there is a reason that vertical dropouts have become standard.

+1

This is what I would do. On bikes with no derailleur hangers on the frame the RD is bolted into what Unworthy is describing. You could take two of those(same size) and find something to bolt on the other side, like a thick washer, or similar.

Honestly I think drilling, no matter how carefully done, would weaken the frame significantly from heating as well as the existence of the hole.

Good luck! Be careful if you do decide to drill.

I don't want to be contentious, but is it so hard to locate the axle where you want it by eye? If the problem is that it is not staying there, there is some other problem afoot here.

jim

I'm trying to find some like this for a BF member. I've only found them on older frames. He wants to get a 35m tire onto the rear, it's hitting the brake caliper. I think those spacers would give him just enough clearance.

I've been trying to find a pic/source for the cheepo stamped steel jobs I used to see (and have used) but no luck. However Surly make a couple new and higher priced "Monkey Nuts" that might work for you: check out the snagged photos.
both are available at AEbike and other shops for $8 (version 1) or $16 (version 2).

I recon this is a "no brainer" if it aint drilled,dont drill it, you cant afford to play around with structural integrity,as unworthy1 so rightly points out there are alternatives which will adequetly fulfill the needs you are seeking so good luck and rem - safety first !

Those are absolutely it. Sincere gratitude.
Now, if I can remember the guy I was helping.......

If you think about it, once you get the adjusters set up for a particular wheel/freewheel/derailer/chain combination, you (or at least I) don't fool with them. The same function could be accomplished by getting some aluminum material the thickness of the dropout, and profiled to fit in the slot -- a hacksaw and a file would get the piece in usable shape. Some more trial-and-error fitting with a rat-tail file would get you to the "adjusted" position, and then you could install them semi-permanently with some silicone sealant.

OK, we file as 'Bad Idea'.
FWIW, the stamped adjusters are available from Loose Screws

https://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...id=86631924918

I had them lined up for Plan 'B', but was hoping for something a little more elegant.
Top

^that's what I was looking for, and I even checked loosescrews but couldn't find them there...thanks, top, I can go to sleep now.

This partially answers a question that just came to my mind which prompted my search...

Now for the follow-up (for anyone that cares to answer)...

Why do we want the wheel at the front of the dropout?

I can think of a few possibilities, but surely there must be a specific reason...

Shorten the effective wheelbase?

Optimize the position of the freewheel/cassette with the derailleur?

That's the way Eddy did it?

It just differentiates the high end bikes from the worthless junk?


And whatever the answer, is the proper position for the axle only as far into the dropout as necessary to grip properly?

it is for optimal RD/cog interface: specifically how the jockey pulley "feeds" the chain onto the cogs...I bet Sheldon has a more complete explanation...also, that's how Eddy did it.

For me the biggest reason to have them is for super quick axle alignment during a race. You don't have to worry that the wheel isn't 100% straight. Just slap it in until it hits the screws, clamp it, and you're done. However, I like having them for everyday use too.

As to the original question, I don't think I'd do it. IMO it would be near impossible to keep that hole straight.

I tried removing the spacers from my PX10 and sliding the wheel all the way back. The chain skipped under load on the two smaller cogs. It's seems strange to me that it would do that, since moving the wheel back results in more chain wrap.