I was looking around for a new bike, something to replace a Raleigh Technium that is way too small for me, when I figured I should probably check my parent’s garage before going out and buying something new. To my surprise, I found a Raleigh USA Racing Competition that seems like a perfect fit. I believe it is an '84 model because it is that pearly white color with the chrome parts. I want to fix this one up instead of buying a new bike.

There are a few things I am concerned about, and this would be my first "restoration" project so I wanted to ask a few questions.

I have done some research, read around on the forums, and this seems like a pretty good find. I am concerned it might not be able to hold up as a commuter though. I ride around on Rochester streets which are always in pretty bad shape, and from time to time in Albany which is no better. As I understand it this is more of a racing bike. Will it be able to take the beating I want it to? I’m not talking huge drops or anything, just a lot of bumpy roads and up and down curbs from time to time.

Is it worth putting my time and money into? As far as I can tell, it needs a new seat, tires, tubes, bar tape, adjustments, and some serious elbow grease. It might need a new front wheel, or anything you guys can think of that would need replacing. Can I do it for under, say… 200 dollars? I’m a poor college student that can barely afford books let alone bikes.

There is some rust on the chrome. It seems like its cosmetic, mostly around where the Raleigh engravings are. Will I be able to get this out? If it’s not too deep will it still look like polished chrome? Anyone have any tips for removing cosmetic rust from chrome? Paint looks ok, just needs to be cleaned up I think.

I haven't checked the wheels, other than a quick look and I know that the front wheel has no tire/tube, or even the rubber strip that goes around the rim to protect the tube. I can't even tell what size these tires are. I tried to put the front wheel of my Technium on the Competition, but it hit the arch in the fork. I don't even know where to look to find out the components this bike has. Is there anything I should definitely replace after such a long time in a garage, other than tires and tubes of course? I can probably get that rubber strip from the LBS right?

Finally, if anyone has any tips or just general information, that would be sweet. I am sorry if these questions seem really basic, but I am really just getting into doing things on my own with bikes, and I figured a restoration project would be a good place to start… I just need some help along the way. Thanks!



I just realized I didn’t take any pictures yet, I will have them up tomorrow. Sorry!

Ok, if it hit the fork crown, then it's set for 700c, whereas it seems your Technium is for 27". There's only 8mm of difference between the two, but, tires also tend to be smaller overall in 700c's than 27's do.
Honestly, I wouldn't use it as a commuter. Period. But, if it's what you feel you must do, then you're gonna wanna see how wide of tires you can do, which is probably only 700x25, it being a racing frame. Some people have no problems riding on tires like that for commuting, but, it can be a little risky, cause they're low-volume/high-pressure.
Well, the front wheel probably just needs rim tape and as you said, tires and tubes, that is unless it's a tubular (glue-on, sew-up), in which case you need the tires, which can be expensive sometimes.
You can pick up nice grip tape for $10-$20.
Seat, you may wanna check your LBS for one that's not too expensive but fits well.
Clean up is free, for the most part. Just check all the threads and grease them so they don't seize.
If you're competent with bikes, most of the adjustments can be done by yourself, although, now that I'm thinking about it, you probably should replace the cables. New cables of good quality usually run about $20. And if you're not comfortable doing those yourself, check with your LBS as to how much that will cost. Also check to see if the hubs and freewheel spin smooth, if so, you should be good, but, it wouldn't hurt somewhere down the road to repack/regrease them.
Honestly though, tires and tubes (if needed) will be the most expensive part.
That's what I have to add.
Specs on the bike would help alot, along with pictures, just so you know.
That's what I have to add.
-Gene-

+1 Not the best choice for a commuter. You might be better off with an older rigid mountain bike, that can handle wider tires, and take a beating. Around here, you can find good ones for $100, sometimes less. But since you have a free bike now, you might as well start with it and see how it goes.

Do a search on rust, oxalic acid is the best thing for chrome. It doesn't take much of a set up, I did a fork last week (on the Lotus below) in a small kitchen trashcan. Anything abrasive (like steel wool, etc) will destroy the chrome while removing the rust. I found out the hard way.

Rim tape, tubes and tires can be found at low cost.

You can get a set of replacement cables (brakes and both derailleurs) for $5 at Walmart. If the bike has been sitting a long time, it probably needs cables as well. Ditto brake pads, which you can also find cheap at Walmart.

You might want to contact a bike flipper in your area. You can probably pick up used parts (seat, wheel, that kind of thing) along with some maintenance assistance, from a flipper. Easy to spot flippers by their ads on Craigs List: "bike just tuned up, ready to ride, replaced bearings, new tires,...). If the C/L poster did the work himself, he is probably a flipper.

You should be able to fix the bike for $50 to $75, if you do the work yourself. It will probably be $200 +/- if you pay someone to do it.

I have $55 in my 1984 Lotus below, including the $16 purchase price. But I buy most of the supplies in bulk (example, $3.50 bar tape). So your cost would be somewhat higher.

Rust is a subject that comes up alot, and one that will get many different answers. I guess I would look at it 2 ways, if you are going to completly strip the frame and rebuild it then I would say the best choice is to soak it in oxalic acid, it is cheap, less work, and makes the chrome and steel look really nice, just don't throw anything in that is annodized. Searching Oxalic acid will bring up details on how its done. If you are not going to strip the frame and just want to polish it put together then Never-Dull or chrome polish and some elbow grease would work well, you can buy it at auto stores or Target and the like for about 4 dollars. I learned alot about DIY repair and how things work from www.sheldonbrown.com, plus he has alot of info on old steel bikes and Raleighs. This is also a good place to ask, there are some here with alot of experience who have helped newbies like you and I. Take your time and have fun, you scored a nice bike, plus I would imagine one of your parents may know about it too.

-Matt

+1 walmart cables, I think Bell makes them, although I felt kind of guitly buying them there, and am hesitant to admit that I did.

-Matt

+1 NeverDull, if you are not going to disassemble the bike.

Wow thanks for all the responses. I figured I would just clear up a few things.

I know its not the best for commuting, but I don't really have the money. Last year I used the Technium to get around campus and go into the city, but on longer rides it was uncomfortable because it was way too small. I figure, yes its once again not a good commuter but at least this time it will fit me better. The tires are definitely not tubular, I should just be able to get new tape, tires and tubes for both the front and the rear, and now that I know that they are 700c that will definitely help on that front. I don't plan on completely dismantling the bike, so I don't think I want to go the oxalic acid route. I am gonna try out the NeverDull, and maybe some coke and aluminum foil. Who knows, whatever works.

Basically the plan is that I'll take some pictures tomorrow of it before I start working on it, see what I can do with the rust and the paint, and put up more pictures I am confident I can do the cabling myself, I'm mechanically inclined just haven't worked on bikes before. I'm gonna wait on the cabling and new tires though, just in case someone sees something in the pictures that raises a red flag.

Thanks guys.

Put 25mm tires on it , and a clipon rear fender(those that clip on the seatpost) and you have got a fast, fun, around town bike. I much prefer a roadbike as a commuter simply because it is faster. Get a good wirecutter, it is difficult to thread the wires if they are frayed. It is a bit tricky to cut the hosing and get clean holes, I use a large sowing needle to open up the internal plastic tubing. Good luck !

MaHaGoN,

I grew up riding around Rochester in the 70's, and believe me, the streets are no worse now than they were then. I managed on a couple low-end boom bikes, and on a 1977 Raleigh Super Course (with the same skinny 700c tires you'd be putting on your Competition). I had no trouble at all until riding around campus in Potsdam, NY, when I dropped my front wheel into the openings of a metal drain grate. That only caused me to have to change the tube. I just made a point to not ride up curbs, and avoid the nasty potholes, and things were fine.

Possibly important piece of information though - I only weighed about 120 back then.

btw - it's spelled NevrDull, and it will definitely take care of your little bit of rust.

Ok guys, here are the before pictures. I wanted to ask some more questions before I started working on it, because a few things I didn't notice before concern me.



First of all I noticed that the wheels are considerably out of true, with at least a 1/4-1/2" wobble when on the frame. Is this a fix that I can do with just a spoke wrench, or are these going to need to be replaced? Another problem, there is some considerable rust on the quick release nut of the front wheel, but I am assuming this is easily replaceable.

Ok, now on to the frame rust.








The only rust I am concerned with is in that last picture, because it looks like its pretty significant. Does that raise any red flags?

Oh, and are Suntour Cyclone M II components good? Here are a few pics.






So basically, its gonna be some more work than I thought because the wheels need work. I hope that its fixable, and that I wont need a new wheelset, because I honestly don't think I can afford a good set. I'll probably spend a ton of time on Sheldon Brown's site to figure out how to true up a wheel. If anyone sees anything that looks like its gonna be more work than its worth, let me know, thanks!

The chrome is easy. Go over all of it with fine bronze wool (mark that - bronze wool, not steel or brass), and around the chainstay bridge, you might want to use some oxalic acid to help you along (though I dare say some persistent bronze-wool work would remove the rust just the same - just with more effort.

Careful around the seatstay caps at the top (where it says "RALEIGH") - easy to flake the chrome off when burnishing it around that area.

As for the paint, run some KIT Scratch Out or Meguiars Scratch X on it, and it'll come out like new. The "Campagnolo" sticker on the top tube and down tube are not original - take a hair dryer to it to loosen the glue if it isn't already (and use Goo Gone to wipe out the sticky residue), but be careful not to loosen the Raleigh decals next to it.

P.S.: Yours is an '85 - components and yellow decal highlights give it away. The '84 had a slightly different component mix, and the following decals w/red-white-blue highlights (note that the component group on this machine is not original):



-Kurt

Cyclone II components are more than good. I'd drop the rusty bolts (seat bolt and chainrings) in an oxalic acid solution. Go with a new chain.

Try truing the wheel yourself first. If you can't get it, take it to Peddler's in Henrietta, and ask if Jack can straighten it out for you. He's built and fixed more wheels than 99.99% of people who have worked on wheels.

Man even in that condition I would love to find something like that. I still stand by what I said about not using it as a commuter, but hey... for now make it how you need it. Just make sure it becomes the fast, proud steed it once was at some later date.
-Gene-

If you want to go a step further, a powder coat paint job, with sandblasting off the old paint, is $80. My '73 Motobecane before...



And after -

Nonsense. Sandblasting wreaks hell on the tubing surface, and the '84 Competition so happens to be chromed entirely underneath, requiring a chrome-removal bath before paint.

Nothing wrong with what MaHaGoN's Competition is now - just needs some TLC.

-Kurt

Amani, I actually want to keep it stock as possible, and I am gonna try to keep the same paint. As gorgeous as that 'Becane looks I am gonna shy away from it. I decided after looking at the work that is going to go into it, its not worth ruining by just beating to hell, she will be fast, don't worry. I'll take plenty of pics as I go along, lol. If I mess up at any time, just yell at me.

I am well aware that those were stickers were definitely not stock lol, after some further investigation, its actually one of my uncles old bikes that he gave to my dad years ago. My dad was never into road biking so she just sat in the garage forever. My uncle is the one that put the Campognolo and Penzoil stickers on there, I wonder if he didn't like the white? I'm gonna ask him more about it in the next few days. They seem to be peeling off already so they shouldn't be too hard to take off with some goo-gone.

I am really scared at getting the rust off from the seatstay caps, because they already appear to be flaking. I am hoping that I can salvage what is still there, but I may end up losing some of the nice inlay.

Thanks for the help in telling me it's the 85, not the 84. I found the listing for the components on the 85, and it looks like the bike is all stock, which I was very happy to find out about. Now its just time to hit everything to clean it up, and try to true up the wheels.

Quick question about truing. Am I going to need a truing stand, or can I just do it on the bike? If its worth it I will pick one up, but considering my budget is already pretty tight, I would like to avoid it if possible. I just plan on turning the bike upside down and seeing what I can do. I'm confident I can do it, just everything I read doesn't mention about doing it right on the bike.

Also, this bike fits me perfectly, I am quite pleased. My uncle is a little shorter than me, but turns out he likes his bikes bigger, so it's perfect.

You can do it on the bike, but you want to be certain your brakes are perfectly centered and won't move when you do it.

Wow, thats alot of chrome, looks great though.

Oh - one thing. Before anything else, loosen the seatpost binder and the handlebar stem binder (loosen it a bit, then tap it so the wedge loosens - but make sure the wedge remains screwed to the binder) to make sure neither are stuck.

-Kurt

Just to clarify a teensy bit. You don't need to tap the seatpost, just loosen and make sure it moves. Also, when tapping the top of the stem, cover it with a cloth that you don't care about before you give it a tap (or between a tap and a rap) so you don't make a mark on the stem.

Thanks, John. Wrote it in a rush - didn't clarify.

-Kurt

Don't let these guys badmouth the Competition as a commuter. It's perfect. Lightweight, but durable. I ride mine everywhere, every day, whether commuting or touring. I threw some north road's and 26" wheels on one for my wife. And of course, don't forget Sheldon!