Your Catch of the Day / Saved from the Dump!
05-17-16, 09:27 AM
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Found this abandoned at a bus stop near work. The poor thing is mangled, not even sure if the frame is a loss or not. However, it is my first non-BSO find.
05-17-16, 10:09 AM
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It doesn't appear to be mangled from the photos, just wheels, a chain, and cables, and some of the parts on it may need replaced if they're beyond repair, otherwise go through and relube all the bearings, but it appears it could be easily restored.
05-17-16, 11:21 AM
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Yeah, eyeballing the frame it appears ok aside from rust but that appears to be surface. Sadly the biopace chainrings are toast as is the spider on the drive side crank. FD is iffy, RD appears fine though hanger is likely tweaked.
Might be a cool frame to build up as an around town type. Probably far too large for my little self though.
Might be a cool frame to build up as an around town type. Probably far too large for my little self though.
05-17-16, 02:49 PM
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Looks like the chain wheels were crushed and bent. There are good parts on it, and if the frame is straight it is worth saving. The rd hanger can be easily re-aligned at a bike shop.
05-17-16, 03:02 PM
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05-17-16, 03:07 PM
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Frame and fork form forum member Kactus, Campy 9 speed group from a bike off craigslist.
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Semper fi
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05-17-16, 03:07 PM
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[QUOTE=Rice Wash;18774980]Yeah, eyeballing the frame it appears ok aside from rust but that appears to be surface. Sadly the biopace chainrings are toast as is the spider on the drive side crank. FD is iffy, RD appears fine though hanger is likely tweaked.
Sad to see such a thing happen to bio pace chainrings! May they rest in peace.
Sad to see such a thing happen to bio pace chainrings! May they rest in peace.
05-17-16, 03:12 PM
Bar Ends Forever
Picked up this 1981 Fuji S12-S LTD saturday but haven't really done a post on it yet. It's the oldest bike I own, and the only real road bike I own. Compared to the mountain bikes and hybrids I'm used to riding, this thing is great. It rides so smooth on the pavement and handles gravel just as well my 80's mtb, even at max tire pressure. The drivetrain looks pristine.
The previous owner set the brakes really high and then threw on some bright red bar tape. Going to lower them and switch out for black later this week. I also would've preferred gumwall tires, but these black ones are brand new and work fine so that's okay I guess.
Full Suntour groupset. (Yes, I cleaned up that freewheel before riding.)
The previous owner set the brakes really high and then threw on some bright red bar tape. Going to lower them and switch out for black later this week. I also would've preferred gumwall tires, but these black ones are brand new and work fine so that's okay I guess.
Full Suntour groupset. (Yes, I cleaned up that freewheel before riding.)
Last edited by CannedPakes; 05-17-16 at 03:15 PM.
05-17-16, 04:19 PM
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^^looks like a nice one. Classy fork there. The DRs look nice and prob'ly shift fine, when you upgrade you will drop some weight there.
05-17-16, 06:08 PM
bicyclatte!
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That turned out really nice - enjoy!
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If someone can pour a Guinness with a cycle instead of a shamrock on top, I'll update my profile pic.
If someone can pour a Guinness with a cycle instead of a shamrock on top, I'll update my profile pic.
05-19-16, 10:06 PM
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Picked this up off CL
1987 Centurion Ironman Master. This is the CL Ad image, i will get it cleaned up and post another pic.
1987 Centurion Ironman Master. This is the CL Ad image, i will get it cleaned up and post another pic.
05-19-16, 10:56 PM
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There's one of those on CL here in that same color scheme right now. Looks like a very nice bike.
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05-19-16, 11:11 PM
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Not saved from the dump, but I did save it from being a fixie. Happily, the previous owner hadn't cut anything off (or even removed the shifters) and had the derailleurs and big chainring in a bag for me. Here was the CL ad picture:
So far I've just pulled off the rack and fenders and put on a new set of wheels with a freehub (fixies can be fun but probably not good for dialing in the fit).
Sometime in the next couple of weeks I hope to get around to putting a cassette and derailleurs on.
So far I've just pulled off the rack and fenders and put on a new set of wheels with a freehub (fixies can be fun but probably not good for dialing in the fit).
Sometime in the next couple of weeks I hope to get around to putting a cassette and derailleurs on.
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05-20-16, 09:40 AM
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Not saved from the dump, but I did save it from being a fixie. Happily, the previous owner hadn't cut anything off (or even removed the shifters) and had the derailleurs and big chainring in a bag for me. Here was the CL ad picture:
So far I've just pulled off the rack and fenders and put on a new set of wheels with a freehub (fixies can be fun but probably not good for dialing in the fit).
Sometime in the next couple of weeks I hope to get around to putting a cassette and derailleurs on.
So far I've just pulled off the rack and fenders and put on a new set of wheels with a freehub (fixies can be fun but probably not good for dialing in the fit).
Sometime in the next couple of weeks I hope to get around to putting a cassette and derailleurs on.
Awesome another classic bike saved from being converted to a fixie!
05-21-16, 06:28 PM
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This is the final build of a MIELE Columbus SL frameset that was literally on its way to the dump when it was given to me.
The bike came with tubular wheels with cyclo-cross tires on it. The frame has aero brake cable routing in the top tube and the top tube was cracked at the hole where the canle housing entered the front of the top tube. I had that tube replaced and then later when i acquired a Shimano Dura Ace AX groupset i had the frame modified to use it.
The modifications included the removal of the downtube shifter bosses and the removal of the chainstay cable housing stop. The frame builder then made a front shifter boss and brazed it to the top of the downtube. He also brazed the cable stop to the top of the chainstay. The biggest thing was the front derailler. Cable guides were brazed to the top of the bottom bracket shell and behind the seat tube. neither the front or rear deraillers use any external cable housing. Shifting is very precise even though it's friction only. I absolutely adore the Dura Ace AX brake calipers. Braking is very positive and it's quite easy to lock up the wheels on dry pavement. I'm very lucky because I found a shop out in the country and they had NOS brake shoes and NOS Uniglide cassettes. At least they did have them. Now they live in my bicycle parts closet. I don't have the Dura Ace AX front hub and I hate mis-matched wheel sets so right now I'm running wheels with vintage Shimano 105 hubs. The rear is a freewheel hub.
I fear that the Wright's saddle is on its last legs and I will be replacing it with a French made leather saddle next week.
Images of this build.
IMG_3769 by Miele Man, on Flickr
IMG_3772 by Miele Man, on Flickr
IMG_3776 by Miele Man, on Flickr
IMG_3773 by Miele Man, on Flickr
IMG_3779 by Miele Man, on Flickr
IMG_3778 by Miele Man, on Flickr
IMG_3780 by Miele Man, on Flickr
The Dura Ace AX stem has internal hex socket bolts to tight the handlebar and the stem in the fork. There's a 6mm hex socket cap that goes on the stem to hide the bolts. This makes fpr a very clean appearance.
IMG_3781 by Miele Man, on Flickr
Cheers
The bike came with tubular wheels with cyclo-cross tires on it. The frame has aero brake cable routing in the top tube and the top tube was cracked at the hole where the canle housing entered the front of the top tube. I had that tube replaced and then later when i acquired a Shimano Dura Ace AX groupset i had the frame modified to use it.
The modifications included the removal of the downtube shifter bosses and the removal of the chainstay cable housing stop. The frame builder then made a front shifter boss and brazed it to the top of the downtube. He also brazed the cable stop to the top of the chainstay. The biggest thing was the front derailler. Cable guides were brazed to the top of the bottom bracket shell and behind the seat tube. neither the front or rear deraillers use any external cable housing. Shifting is very precise even though it's friction only. I absolutely adore the Dura Ace AX brake calipers. Braking is very positive and it's quite easy to lock up the wheels on dry pavement. I'm very lucky because I found a shop out in the country and they had NOS brake shoes and NOS Uniglide cassettes. At least they did have them. Now they live in my bicycle parts closet. I don't have the Dura Ace AX front hub and I hate mis-matched wheel sets so right now I'm running wheels with vintage Shimano 105 hubs. The rear is a freewheel hub.
I fear that the Wright's saddle is on its last legs and I will be replacing it with a French made leather saddle next week.
Images of this build.
IMG_3769 by Miele Man, on FlickrIMG_3772 by Miele Man, on FlickrIMG_3776 by Miele Man, on FlickrIMG_3773 by Miele Man, on FlickrIMG_3779 by Miele Man, on FlickrIMG_3778 by Miele Man, on FlickrIMG_3780 by Miele Man, on FlickrThe Dura Ace AX stem has internal hex socket bolts to tight the handlebar and the stem in the fork. There's a 6mm hex socket cap that goes on the stem to hide the bolts. This makes fpr a very clean appearance.
IMG_3781 by Miele Man, on FlickrCheers
05-21-16, 06:44 PM
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* I scored this Schwinn Le Tour II today for $10.* Very, very dirty.* Looks like it's been in a coal mine.* Might sell it to a buddy or make it a gravel bike. Also scored a nice shogun katana with tange infinity frame *
05-21-16, 06:53 PM
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This is the final build of a MIELE Columbus SL frameset that was literally on its way to the dump when it was given to me.
The bike came with tubular wheels with cyclo-cross tires on it. The frame has aero brake cable routing in the top tube and the top tube was cracked at the hole where the canle housing entered the front of the top tube. I had that tube replaced and then later when i acquired a Shimano Dura Ace AX groupset i had the frame modified to use it.
The modifications included the removal of the downtube shifter bosses and the removal of the chainstay cable housing stop. The frame builder then made a front shifter boss and brazed it to the top of the downtube. He also brazed the cable stop to the top of the chainstay. The biggest thing was the front derailler. Cable guides were brazed to the top of the bottom bracket shell and behind the seat tube. neither the front or rear deraillers use any external cable housing. Shifting is very precise even though it's friction only. I absolutely adore the Dura Ace AX brake calipers. Braking is very positive and it's quite easy to lock up the wheels on dry pavement. I'm very lucky because I found a shop out in the country and they had NOS brake shoes and NOS Uniglide cassettes. At least they did have them. Now they live in my bicycle parts closet. I don't have the Dura Ace AX front hub and I hate mis-matched wheel sets so right now I'm running wheels with vintage Shimano 105 hubs. The rear is a freewheel hub.
I fear that the Wright's saddle is on its last legs and I will be replacing it with a French made leather saddle next week.
Images of this build.
IMG_3769 by Miele Man, on Flickr
IMG_3772 by Miele Man, on Flickr
IMG_3776 by Miele Man, on Flickr
IMG_3773 by Miele Man, on Flickr
IMG_3779 by Miele Man, on Flickr
IMG_3778 by Miele Man, on Flickr
IMG_3780 by Miele Man, on Flickr
The Dura Ace AX stem has internal hex socket bolts to tight the handlebar and the stem in the fork. There's a 6mm hex socket cap that goes on the stem to hide the bolts. This makes fpr a very clean appearance.
IMG_3781 by Miele Man, on Flickr
Cheers
The bike came with tubular wheels with cyclo-cross tires on it. The frame has aero brake cable routing in the top tube and the top tube was cracked at the hole where the canle housing entered the front of the top tube. I had that tube replaced and then later when i acquired a Shimano Dura Ace AX groupset i had the frame modified to use it.
The modifications included the removal of the downtube shifter bosses and the removal of the chainstay cable housing stop. The frame builder then made a front shifter boss and brazed it to the top of the downtube. He also brazed the cable stop to the top of the chainstay. The biggest thing was the front derailler. Cable guides were brazed to the top of the bottom bracket shell and behind the seat tube. neither the front or rear deraillers use any external cable housing. Shifting is very precise even though it's friction only. I absolutely adore the Dura Ace AX brake calipers. Braking is very positive and it's quite easy to lock up the wheels on dry pavement. I'm very lucky because I found a shop out in the country and they had NOS brake shoes and NOS Uniglide cassettes. At least they did have them. Now they live in my bicycle parts closet. I don't have the Dura Ace AX front hub and I hate mis-matched wheel sets so right now I'm running wheels with vintage Shimano 105 hubs. The rear is a freewheel hub.
I fear that the Wright's saddle is on its last legs and I will be replacing it with a French made leather saddle next week.
Images of this build.
IMG_3769 by Miele Man, on FlickrIMG_3772 by Miele Man, on FlickrIMG_3776 by Miele Man, on FlickrIMG_3773 by Miele Man, on FlickrIMG_3779 by Miele Man, on FlickrIMG_3778 by Miele Man, on FlickrIMG_3780 by Miele Man, on FlickrThe Dura Ace AX stem has internal hex socket bolts to tight the handlebar and the stem in the fork. There's a 6mm hex socket cap that goes on the stem to hide the bolts. This makes fpr a very clean appearance.
IMG_3781 by Miele Man, on FlickrCheers
Don't think bad stuff about friction shifting, I have several friction shifting bikes, howbeit their all Suntour which made the best friction systems in the world, and they shift as fast as my STI does! Of course you have a greater chance of miss shifts but once you get the hang of it they can shift very fast. What's weird about this shifting stuff, I have a couple of bikes with index shifting and they're actually faster than STI! Most people don't realize this stuff because they didn't start riding till after STI came out, and since it's modern all the old stuff must be crap which isn't true by a long shot. And the friction shifting stuff is much more reliable, it never goes out adjustment between cable changes, and cables last longer.
05-21-16, 07:23 PM
Senior Member
You did really good with that Schwinn. Let me know if your buddy does not want it.
05-22-16, 08:15 PM
The Drive Side is Within
Raleigh USA Olympian Mixte for my wife. $25.
Bought It to flip (seller photo was unflattering, not that my indoor shot is that much better) but it matches my Alyeska. And my wife and I are planning a tour! It's been converted to a nice set of risers. I'm psyched.
Bought It to flip (seller photo was unflattering, not that my indoor shot is that much better) but it matches my Alyeska. And my wife and I are planning a tour! It's been converted to a nice set of risers. I'm psyched.
Last edited by Standalone; 05-22-16 at 08:26 PM.
05-23-16, 06:43 AM
weapons-grade bolognium
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^^^^^^^
score!!!!!
score!!!!!
05-23-16, 10:49 AM
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The flipper who snagged it for $35 at a garage sale got the real bargain, but I don't think I did too bad paying him $200 for an all-original 1983-84 Miyata 1000 in great shape. Aside from some scuffs on the top tube that'll buff out, it's in practically new condition.
Its seat tube is a size smaller than ideal, but I think it might work since the top tube is the same length as other bikes that fit me like a glove. I'll give it a shot, and if I can't make it fit, I'm sure I can find the bike another good home.
The serial number indicates a 1983 manufacture date, as do some details like the front and rear racks and lack of lowrider bosses. The rest of the bike's components and decal style are a perfect match for the 1984 catalog.
Its seat tube is a size smaller than ideal, but I think it might work since the top tube is the same length as other bikes that fit me like a glove. I'll give it a shot, and if I can't make it fit, I'm sure I can find the bike another good home.
The serial number indicates a 1983 manufacture date, as do some details like the front and rear racks and lack of lowrider bosses. The rest of the bike's components and decal style are a perfect match for the 1984 catalog.
05-24-16, 02:06 PM
bicyclatte!
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The flipper who snagged it for $35 at a garage sale got the real bargain, but I don't think I did too bad paying him $200 for an all-original 1983-84 Miyata 1000 in great shape. Aside from some scuffs on the top tube that'll buff out, it's in practically new condition.
...
...
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If someone can pour a Guinness with a cycle instead of a shamrock on top, I'll update my profile pic.
If someone can pour a Guinness with a cycle instead of a shamrock on top, I'll update my profile pic.
05-24-16, 03:13 PM
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These all came out around 1982 and had a short life, about 1983 iirc, because index shifting superseded them. However I love the looks and the functioning of all my Dura Ace AX stuff and that of the Adamas AX I have on another bike.
Cheers
05-24-16, 03:50 PM
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Deal. If you end up parting it out, I got $160 for frame+fork+brakes I sold on the big auction site; same year, model, color and size as yours, only the paint on mine was really beat up
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●