Need some Input
#1
Need some Input
I already posted in another thread that I recently won a 74 Raleigh Pro on ebay. If you didn't see that you can read about it here.
Anyway, I'm looking for some opinions/idea's on how to build it up. First let me say, I still consider myself in the learning/beginning phase of working on and learning about vintage bikes. I've been doing it for about a year. Maybe I'll always feel like that. This is my first really nice top of the line (except for the team pro i guess) frame, and I want to build it up "right". Since "right" is so subjective from one person to the other, I'd like to get some ideas of how you all would go about it. Let me first say, this bike, as with any bike I build will get ridden. Probably not in inclement weather though as it will be babied. That said I want it to be comfy and I want it to perform well.
I will put good parts on it that will be purpose built for going fast like the frame was intended to do. No racks, or touring components, maybe not even any bottle cages, at least on the frame. I do already have a honey brooks pro that will go on it, that's the only thing i'm sure of.
I guess what I'm asking, is would you basically built it up as it came in '74 with what I believe would be all campy record stuff? Would you consider running 700c wheels or keep it 27? 6 speed freewheel?
Would it have come with sew ups, tubulars or clinchers? Would you consider it sacrilege to put brifters on it? What about aero brake levers?
I guess I can't decide if I want it to look like it just came from the factory in 74, customize it with some modern parts, or somewhere in between. All I do know is that whatever I do i'll probably be building from scratch as I don't feel I currently have any parts that are deserving enough to find themselves on this frame.
I don't know if I fall into the vintage restore camp, or vintage modified restore camp. I love the look of old bikes, but I always find myself changing the original configurations. I've really not been a fan of dt shifters because since I ride larger frames I have to lean down so far to shift them. I usually run bar ends or brifters. But I like the look of DT shifters on vintage bikes better...
All I know is I love the look of a factory 74 raleigh pro, I'm just not positive I want that setup on a bike I want to ride the heck out of. But I don't want to defile it either.
I'm so confused.
Sorry for rambling...
Anyway, I'm looking for some opinions/idea's on how to build it up. First let me say, I still consider myself in the learning/beginning phase of working on and learning about vintage bikes. I've been doing it for about a year. Maybe I'll always feel like that. This is my first really nice top of the line (except for the team pro i guess) frame, and I want to build it up "right". Since "right" is so subjective from one person to the other, I'd like to get some ideas of how you all would go about it. Let me first say, this bike, as with any bike I build will get ridden. Probably not in inclement weather though as it will be babied. That said I want it to be comfy and I want it to perform well.
I will put good parts on it that will be purpose built for going fast like the frame was intended to do. No racks, or touring components, maybe not even any bottle cages, at least on the frame. I do already have a honey brooks pro that will go on it, that's the only thing i'm sure of.
I guess what I'm asking, is would you basically built it up as it came in '74 with what I believe would be all campy record stuff? Would you consider running 700c wheels or keep it 27? 6 speed freewheel?
Would it have come with sew ups, tubulars or clinchers? Would you consider it sacrilege to put brifters on it? What about aero brake levers?
I guess I can't decide if I want it to look like it just came from the factory in 74, customize it with some modern parts, or somewhere in between. All I do know is that whatever I do i'll probably be building from scratch as I don't feel I currently have any parts that are deserving enough to find themselves on this frame.
I don't know if I fall into the vintage restore camp, or vintage modified restore camp. I love the look of old bikes, but I always find myself changing the original configurations. I've really not been a fan of dt shifters because since I ride larger frames I have to lean down so far to shift them. I usually run bar ends or brifters. But I like the look of DT shifters on vintage bikes better...
All I know is I love the look of a factory 74 raleigh pro, I'm just not positive I want that setup on a bike I want to ride the heck out of. But I don't want to defile it either.
I'm so confused.
Sorry for rambling...
__________________
I have some bikes.
I have some bikes.
#3
I would, without a doubt, put a Campy Super Record crankset on that. They belong together. I'm not a stickler to using vintage parts, but some do have their place in my book. I wouldn't even consider brifters. I would use DT shifters - Campy if I could find them without spending too, too much. I just swapped out my 1" quill stem for a converter and a 1 - 1/8" inch stem and modern dropbars - on an '82 Puch A-D Reynolds 531 everything. So make it your bike. But Campy SR would go on it if it were mine.
#4
__________________
I have some bikes.
I have some bikes.
#5
Chrome Freak
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 26
From: Kuna, ID
Bikes: 71 Chrome Paramount P13-9, 73 Opaque Blue Paramount P15, 74 Blue Mink Raleigh Pro, 91 Waterford Paramount, Holland Titanium x2
I bought my 74 Pro as a bare frame. I built it up as close to stock as I could, given my personal preferences such as having barcons. My handlebars are 3ttt and are not correct. They were as close as I could come to period correct, though. I use 700C clincher rims, Mavic Module E. Some numbskull had drilled out the front fork for recessed brake mounting so I had to use a rear brake bolt and recessed nut on the front.
I wouldn't go with brifters, but anything short of that would be OK as long as it is reversible later if you decide to go all stock.
I wouldn't go with brifters, but anything short of that would be OK as long as it is reversible later if you decide to go all stock.
__________________
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
#6
Rustbelt Rider
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,105
Likes: 388
From: Canton, OH
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
__________________
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,929
Likes: 2
1974?
Nuovo Record, definitely not Super Record. Go for a full Campy grupo. Nothing else will do or do justice to the bike. Absolutely DO NOT get anything that's pantographed or infill painted.
BTW, get a Brooks Pro saddle, too.
Nuovo Record, definitely not Super Record. Go for a full Campy grupo. Nothing else will do or do justice to the bike. Absolutely DO NOT get anything that's pantographed or infill painted.
BTW, get a Brooks Pro saddle, too.
#8
Rustbelt Rider
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,105
Likes: 388
From: Canton, OH
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
Budget allowing. I'd hate to see what it cost to buy a whole group bit by bit unless you find crazy deals...yeesh! I have Weinmann side pull brakes to put on my Raleigh Pro and that will have to do for now seeing what brakes and levers cost
. Just don't shell out the 60 or so dollars for the Campy brake cables and housings...double yeesh! Also, again for what it matters, I like the SR crank. I would worry more about cost and performance over original spec parts. Plus i'm really curious to see what a honey brooks would look like on a pro. What color/ kind of bar tape are you thinking? White, Silver, light blue?
-Matt
. Just don't shell out the 60 or so dollars for the Campy brake cables and housings...double yeesh! Also, again for what it matters, I like the SR crank. I would worry more about cost and performance over original spec parts. Plus i'm really curious to see what a honey brooks would look like on a pro. What color/ kind of bar tape are you thinking? White, Silver, light blue?-Matt
__________________
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
#10
Unique Vintage Steel



Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 287
From: Allen, TX
Bikes: Kirk Frameworks JKS-C, Serotta Nova, Gazelle AB-Frame, Fuji Team Issue, Surly Straggler
Campagnolo Nuovo Record is my vote. The cranks are an acceptable 'upgrade'. the black filled flutes will stand out nicely against the lighter colored frame. You've already got the most expensive part of the group (cranks). BB may cost a bit. Front / Rear derailleurs go for wildly differing prices depending on condition. I just sold what I'd consider a "Good" condition pair for $40. Rabid's build above is a good reference point for a true to period build.
#12
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,810
Likes: 597
From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
+1. The stem and handlebar should be TTT, but Cinelli would be fine; if you can't find them with the right logo on 'em, get some that have no logo at all, or at least an inconspicuous one.
#13
thanks for all the ideas/thoughts.
What about wheels? I'm assuming most here would stick with 27's which is what I plan to do. But what would have come with the bike? Wienmann rims with campy record high flange hubs maybe?
What about wheels? I'm assuming most here would stick with 27's which is what I plan to do. But what would have come with the bike? Wienmann rims with campy record high flange hubs maybe?
__________________
I have some bikes.
I have some bikes.
#15
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,810
Likes: 597
From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
I don't think 27's will fit at all, and 700c's are better anyway -- more and better modern options are available. Best in my opinion would be a smooth polished old school rim that looks like a tubular rim. Yes, campy high flange hubs would be best, but small flange will look okay-- that's what came on similar bikes just a few years later.
#16
Seņor Member



Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,462
Likes: 1,554
From: Hardy, VA
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
I'd have a frame builder replace the seat lugs and seat stays with something other than that horrid-looking fastback arrangement. 
Wipe the thought of 27" rims from your mind. Sure, you can make them work, but why? I'd go with tubular rims, but I can accept that they aren't for everyone. Something silver that polishes up nice in either case. Campagnolo, Ofmega, Gipiemme or OMAS hubs would look "right" IMO.
If you want a slightly more modern drivetrain, find out first whether the geometry is conducive to working with something beyond the 6 speed it came with. Shadowfax (my '70) really doesn't like the idea of running with more than the 5 she came with. If going to 7 is not a problem, and you want that, Shimano indexed downtube shifters with the appropriate derailleurs and freewheels would be the way to go. I'd lean towards Dura Ace, but even 600 and 105 should look decent and work well. Superbe might be another option to consider. As much as I like Campagnolo, I can't recall seeing or hearing anything to suggest they got this technology down nearly as well as Shimano and Sun Tour. Shame, since this model begs to have Italian bits hung on it...
If you are ok with a friction drivetrain, stick with Campagnolo. My preference would be SR in front, and NR in the rear (I think SR rear derailleurs are butt-ugly in comparison to NR too). I'm fuzzy on this, but I think SR is compatible with a slightly greater range of gearing options, and since I know you ride in Pennsylvania (with our hills), that might push you towards SR. A Record seat post is a bit more of a P.I.T.A. to set up and adjust than the other options, but it gives you complete control over every element of saddle adjustment. Go with whatever suits you there. Levers? If you go aero, get a handlebar with the appropriate grooves.
Looks like a fun build, and it should be gorgeous and a great rider when it is complete.
No go. Get busy.

Wipe the thought of 27" rims from your mind. Sure, you can make them work, but why? I'd go with tubular rims, but I can accept that they aren't for everyone. Something silver that polishes up nice in either case. Campagnolo, Ofmega, Gipiemme or OMAS hubs would look "right" IMO.
If you want a slightly more modern drivetrain, find out first whether the geometry is conducive to working with something beyond the 6 speed it came with. Shadowfax (my '70) really doesn't like the idea of running with more than the 5 she came with. If going to 7 is not a problem, and you want that, Shimano indexed downtube shifters with the appropriate derailleurs and freewheels would be the way to go. I'd lean towards Dura Ace, but even 600 and 105 should look decent and work well. Superbe might be another option to consider. As much as I like Campagnolo, I can't recall seeing or hearing anything to suggest they got this technology down nearly as well as Shimano and Sun Tour. Shame, since this model begs to have Italian bits hung on it...
If you are ok with a friction drivetrain, stick with Campagnolo. My preference would be SR in front, and NR in the rear (I think SR rear derailleurs are butt-ugly in comparison to NR too). I'm fuzzy on this, but I think SR is compatible with a slightly greater range of gearing options, and since I know you ride in Pennsylvania (with our hills), that might push you towards SR. A Record seat post is a bit more of a P.I.T.A. to set up and adjust than the other options, but it gives you complete control over every element of saddle adjustment. Go with whatever suits you there. Levers? If you go aero, get a handlebar with the appropriate grooves.
Looks like a fun build, and it should be gorgeous and a great rider when it is complete.
No go. Get busy.
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#17
the only reason i said 27's is because that's what I thought it came with, being from '74 and all. Just goes to show I'm still a newb.
That said, that's great news because I just happen to have had a nice set of 700c 6 speed mavic allow clinchers come into my possesion. Maybe I'll have this on the road earlier than I thought.
Thanks again for all the feedback.
BTW, can anyone tell me what size the seat post would be?
That said, that's great news because I just happen to have had a nice set of 700c 6 speed mavic allow clinchers come into my possesion. Maybe I'll have this on the road earlier than I thought.
Thanks again for all the feedback.
BTW, can anyone tell me what size the seat post would be?
__________________
I have some bikes.
I have some bikes.
Last edited by -holiday76; 12-04-08 at 10:28 AM.
#18
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,810
Likes: 597
From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...











