Finish the in progress overhaul/builds: 84 Schwinn High Sierra, 85 Schwinn Mirada, 87 Sierra, and 89 Schwinn High Plains. All were started on a complete overhaul then ran into a snag or lack of time/motivation to finish. A few of them have shifter issues and 1 needs a new rear axle (easy) along with a shifter issue on the same bike.

Start and finish the others: Jamis Explorer MTB, Trek 800 MTB, Trek 820 MTB, 2 70's Centurion Lemans, 70's World, 70's World Sport, Fuji something, and another World Sport.

Figure out what I am going to do with list (all frame/fork right now): early 90's Trek 8000 MTB, 84' Vista MTB, mid-80's ladies Mongoose MTB, 85 Raleigh Teton MTB with a loose dropout on the fork, Fuji Regis, and my former personal Surly Karate Monkey frame.

Gonna see how many kitties I can get God to smite. Don't worry they look like this one. And I don't even believe in God.

Got a 1984 Trek 500 and a Raleigh 20 slated for fixed gear conversions, and a 1978 Raleigh Super Course with a stuck stem and a bent fork that will not. Be converted. Might put a 6 speed 14-30 freewheel on it though.

Mine?
1: Finish my Panasonic DX-6000 (hoping to have done by birthday on the 23rd)
2: Upgrade parts on the Fuji Sandblaster so my GF has a good college bike.
3: Schwinn Collegiate, though that's an extended project, and not one that needs to be done soon.
4: Lose the lard in front of my stomach.
I think that's it, for now.
-Gene-

So we're just past the new year, and my projects are already evolving. One update:

I also fitted the Dawes tourer with new decals and headbadge and will wrap/shellac the bars tomorrow. And after some trading, I have a few new projects that'll likely rise to the top of the list above:

--1972 PX-10: clean, polish, and dig some French parts out of the bin.
--late 70s Fuji S12-S: Build up this frameset w/ some Fuji-ish parts.
--early 80s Sekai 2000: I'm thinking of hanging mostly French bits on this one.

Neal

1) Repaint my 1986 Raleigh Marathon. Still thinking about a color scheme, this pink is an idea I've been thinking off... Though, another option would be to restore the original color scheme along with the rest of the bike.

2) I've been sucked into the C&V scene by you guys, and have been seriously thinking about buying an old transport bike and restore that into it's original state, possibly even better ;)

3) Trying to convince my wife she needs a touring bike, so we can hit the road together. That would be a third bike (mixte) that would be restored.

Wrap the bars, cross levers on mr. 80 nishiki. Swap out the bent 6s freewheel for a new 5s. Maybe clean the bike too.

1. Putting cross levers and new bar tape on my LeTour. Attempting to convert back to a 10-speed after a few years as a rough 'Working Bikes' 5 speed; recently put on a set of Sugino Maxy road double cranks and a Dura Ace FD from the parts pile. Have upgraded to a set of new Weinmann alloy wheels and Weinmann centerpulls from an old Raleigh Record.

2. Attempting to transfer a set of Deore cranks and front/rear derailleurs from trashed MTB onto my Lotus Excelle roadie (with suspect parts). Have scrapped the old foamy black grips and dingy white hoods, and put on new Cane Creek hoods, new cables and housing, and new bar tape.

An early 90's Vitus in 979: a few years ago I was dumb enough to completely dismantle it for painting only to find out that the tubes are epoxied together. Then I found out that the painting facility every one here (in Japan) seems to send their frames to uses heat in the process. That stopped me in my tracks. But, these years later I am thirsty for the ride, so I am trying to refinish it by hand. It's winter. I've no workshop and outside is always a freezing wind. Well ... I'll get there in the end. Parts for it are stacked up: Nitto seat post, a leather saddle on a Reynolds 531 frame, Mavic wheels for tubulars, Campy Record hubs new NOS super record skewers stuck in the mails somewhere, Sugino 75 BB and cranks, Sugino 75 brakes, Cellini stem and Quill blah blah.

'85 Trek 560 frame set in Reynolds 501: Just acquired. I'm going to try and save the paint and decals by doing some extensive touch up and repair followed by a rub out and some clear-coat. I need to do some rust prevention on the inside as well. Next — parts hunting.

-holiday76 - The Raleigh Grand Prix is absolutely delicious!

Just bought a "fuji feather" track bike, sight unseen (other than pics). So my winter project will be to get it up and running, looking right of course. Pics forthcoming when I get it next week or so.

Now that I've got the Fuso packed and ready to ship, I can return to the 1970 Paramount project. Various Campy parts, Cinelli bars and stem, 5-speed Regina cassette on some Mavic E-Module 27" wheels. Brooks saddle.

Then it's up in the air: Maybe you guys can decide for me.

Gardin Shred (weird seat tube, bent opposite that of time trial bikes, was told it was a Shred, not 100% sure)
I got a Gardin steel fork recently so I'll use that instead of the Vitus aluminum one. It has a Campy Chorus bb already but I've nothing against using Shimano on this.

John Howard built by Dave Tesch. Aggressive geometry. I was thinking that since I'm building the Paramount and the Colnago(naturally) with Campy, I'd go Shimano on this bike.

Colnago Master This is my dream bike but will be the most expensive project. Still trying to decide what fork to use on this.

Maybe some day, My Pinarello will come back to me from the painter. It will of course be built with Campagnolo parts.

Raleigh 20's make fun little fixies.:D If you're one has 406 wheels, you will need to run 52:14 to get 70 gear inches, which is a nice ratio for around a flattish town.

Where do I start?:twitchy:

1. Get a c1920s racing bike ready for a seven day, several hundred km tour in February:
- take bike to LBS for new brake cable and pads for the period clamp on front brake.
- get LBS to build the best possible Eaddie Coaster hub and wheel out of the two wheels I have.
- put cork grips on the handlebars.
- clean the chain and put back on it.
- possibly replace the tyres.
- put the rear rack from a similar vintage roadster onto it so I put panniers on.
- put the Brooks from the Norman onto it.

2. Find a new bottom bracket and BB spindle for the 1950s Norman and put period road bike brake levers on it. Rebuild the 1950s quill pedals and put them back onto it.

3. Put a B17 on the Burco, now that I've flipped the North Road bars and put the B66 onto the Humber.

4. Dissemable the Dahon and clean and lube everything so that I can ride it.

5. Put a better seat on the Raleigh 20 Folder

6. Replace the tyres and rewire the dynamo on the Healing Cruiser.

7. Start work on my 1920s - 1930s racing bike:
- clean and get the replacement rim replated.
- lace rear rim to original hub
- put a front brake and if I can find one a period lever on the bike.
- replace with chainring with one that won't come loose from the spider every 5 km.
- tape or put cork grips on the handle bar.
- put a Brooks B17 on it.
- get the handlebars and Major Taylor stem replated.
- strip of all the old, thick (repainted) paint and get the frame repainted with the dings removed.
- find a pair of plated steel quill pedals and toe clips.

...

Progress on my three projects:

1. I've started disassembling the World Sport to get ready to paint it. I don't have all the fancy-schmancy tools, so I need to get it over to the LBS at some point to get some of the disassembly done. I'll probably buy a tool or two, and hopefully they'll pop my bottom bracket out for free with their tools (they're pretty good about that).

2. Reconditioning the Marathon has gone better than expected so far. The hubs which were in terrible shape had simply ingested a bunch of mud/dust and it had hardened with the grease. I cleaned the front and rear hubs and repacked them and they roll great.... and they're very true. I'm not gonna mess with the headset or bottom bracket until the Schwinn is ready for commuting duty and I get ready to paint the Marathon.

3. Fixie... well, I started a thread over the SS/FG forum to get advice about how to proceed with the conversion. I want to do it on the cheap to begin with. If I decide I like SS/FG riding I may upgrade down the road, but for the short term I'm doing everything cheap and reversible.

Once it's painted, will you try to find replacement decals? If you find a source, let me know. Maybe if we get two sets together, we can get the price down a little?

My 1966-ish Bottecchia project. Read more here:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=500901

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z...ar89/002-7.jpg

Mid-January update:

Centurion Accordo frameset: Having put 200 miles on it working out the bugs and deciding on the component configuration (SS/FG), it was torn down last weekend and sent off to the powder coater. It'll be red, with black mudguards and tubing to match the obnoxious red and black bar tape. Crank is Shimano 600, brakes are 105, front hub is RSX. Hope to have it back together by next weekend, or the weekend following at the latest. Once it's back on the road, I then start looking for either 600 brakes and front hub, or 105 crank and front hub, to complete the group. Yeah, I'm like that. Note: All kittens are in fine shape and currently sleeping on my bed.

Fisher R-31 (aka Roadkill's bike): Dropped by Agee's to talk to Joe about the mechanical oddities on this one. He think's he got the necessary spacers and front derailleur cable hanger for the 1-1/4" steerer tube. Once I get the frameset put together, then find a 1-1/4" stem and 34.8 front derailleur, I'll get serious about speccing out the build.

Gary Fisher Gitchee Gumme: Building new wheels. Already have the Deore LX hubs and Mavic rims. Will probably pick up the spokes later this week. This one will be laced together alongside reassembling the Centurion. When done, the old wheels are allotted to Roadkill's bike.

Raleigh Sports ladies: Still sitting in the garden shed. Will probably start tearing down once the Centurion and Gitchee Gumme wheels are off the workbench. Headed for Craigslist in late March, so there's no rush there.

Oh yeah, got out today and put 52 miles down on a first run for the 700c clincher (yes, he's trying clinchers again!) Helicomatic wheels for the Trek 460. They work just fine. Not as good as tubulars, mind you, but nice. Taking the extra time to find yellow tyres to match the rest of the trim on this blue bike has me calling it the Ikea bike.