Yeah, electrolytic galling. You can prevent it by using anti-seize compound (basically, grease with copper flakes in it to make it conductive) on the threads when you assemble it.

As I said before - no amount of anti-seize can protect you from the idiot who failed to do so the last time the BB was installed.

-Kurt

I saw a mechanic remove a super stuck steel fixed cup on a steel frame by welding a piece of metal on it and holding it in a bench vice. Came out OK, but could have been the heat as well...

Yeah, that was going to be my next attempt, if the Enox tool failed. I wanted to preserve the paint if possible, so welding was a last resort.

oh dear...this is scaring me for when i need to replace my old cup-and-cone BB (which is very soon)...

You shouldn't have any problems. Traditional cup and cone BB's are typically one form of steel or another. Aluminum is usually used on sealed units, or unusual designs such as this (obviously, in a cup-and-cone environment, pressed-in steel raceways would be mandatory). Come to think of it, I cannot think of a specific cup-and-cone BB in aluminum...

-Kurt

i've got one those exact bottom brackets in my motta.
not interested in going through this. the bearings work fine so it's staying in...

I think you're right. One possible exception might be the old Super Record cups (the ones used with the Ti spindle). I have a vague recollection that they were Al with pressed in steel races. Perhaps someone has a set of these and can weigh in

Zeus made a Ti cup and cone BB. The spindle and cups were Ti, with pressed on steel races. I have a couple of these and they've held up well.

If they're not involved in forcefully extracting them at the present moment...

-Kurt

I welded a piece of scrap steel to my stuck BB and grabbed it with a large set of pliers. You can see how much torque it took since it twisted the once-straight steel by about 45 degrees.

Success at Last!!


I used the hacksaw to make two cuts to get a pie wedge out but had to stop as I was chewing into the steel threads of the bb.


After much chiseling with a screwdriver to tear through the sawlines, I got the wedge loose.




More chiseling and still more chiseling. That aluminum sleeve was really, really, REALLY stuck!



Just a few more whacks.



Nasty little mofo.





hacksaw damage

I will get that bottom bracket refaced for sure. Now, to box that frame up and get it fixed up and purty. It'll be getting the full Campy Record treatment, new(er) stuff but with downtube shifters.

!
The hacksaw marks are shallow. Chase and face it and it'll work OK.

Looks great. I see you made your most severe cut parallel to the chainstay socket too. Brilliant job.

Let's have some applause for these valiant efforts!

-Kurt

I have nightmares about stuff like this...

I had a rusted solid cup stuck in my yet to be identified frame as well. I used the process described by Sheldon Brown https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html 7 washers, a nut and bolt, looks like a $3 version of the special tool shown earlier in the thread!

great job! congratulations...

Remember, though, if it can't be cut with a sawzall, it ain't worth cuttin'. Makes the work easier for next time.

And, yeah, super record cups (and early C-Record, and a few others) were al with steel races, in a cup and cone configuration. I have a TI bottom bracket in the Somec, and it has al cups with steel races...I think it is an ERA???