Does standover really matter, or...
#1
Thread Starter
King of the molehills
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 0
From: Detroit 'burbs, east side.
Bikes: '04 Giant OCR2, DIY light tourer built on on Scattante cross frame, '87 Schwinn World Sport F/G conversion, '85 Schwinn Super Le Tour
Does standover really matter, or...
...to put it another way, is it OK if the TT contacts the "boys" just a little?
It's just that, see, I'm short. Not quite East Hill(TM) short, but close. And it's really a PITA having to limit myself to 19"/49cm frames when there are nice 20"/50cm frames out there that might just be an inch or less too "big". Especially if the TT length seems OK & won't stretch my old torso out like Superman.
It's just that, see, I'm short. Not quite East Hill(TM) short, but close. And it's really a PITA having to limit myself to 19"/49cm frames when there are nice 20"/50cm frames out there that might just be an inch or less too "big". Especially if the TT length seems OK & won't stretch my old torso out like Superman.
#3
Señor Member



Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,473
Likes: 1,558
From: Hardy, VA
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
I have a couple bikes that are "too big" for me, including a couple of my favorites. I can't comfortably stand over Shadowfax, or my Fuji, or my Long Haul Trucker. All I care about is that I can dismount safely, and that I'm comfortable in the saddle.
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In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,141
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From: Madison, Wisconsin
Bikes: 2000 Litespeed Classic, 1984 Schwinn LeTour, 1998 Gary Fisher Marlin, 1969 Hercules, 1977 Sekai 5000 Superlite, 1993 Koga-Myata TerraLiner, 2013 Trek Farley.
Same situation, my bikes that fit me well (riding) are just a bit too high in standover. But no problems yet ... I'm never actually standing over the TT, I'm resting one foot on the ground while one is in the pedal.
#6
Having SLLTS (Short Legs Long Torso Syndrome), I can never have clearance. The top tube length is the most important. It would be nice to have a frame that I can easily stand over, but I'd rather be comfortable while riding.
#7
Senior Member



Joined: Dec 2005
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Neal
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 622
Likes: 1
From: Boone NC USA
Bikes: Bianchi hybrid. Dunelt 3-sp. Raleigh basket case. Wanting a Roadster.
Stand over height is something that they only started worrying about comparatively recently, in fact it pretty much matches when people started sueing companies because they were stupid and the company did not take that into consideration. In the old days the only thing anyone worried about was whether they could reach the pedals; and I have seen old bikes with blocks on the pedals to make that posible. If you look at some books about bicycle history you will notice that while people were shorter on average back then their bike were much bigger than today.
Personally, I like a frame that I can put one foot on the pedal and the other on the ground which makes it safe to stop at a light, If I tried to straddle it flatfooted it would be a definite "ouch!"
Personally, I like a frame that I can put one foot on the pedal and the other on the ground which makes it safe to stop at a light, If I tried to straddle it flatfooted it would be a definite "ouch!"
#11
A few of mine are "big' by my LBS measuring standards. My Fuji Opus, Design and Raleigh Competition are all 61 cm and most of my others are 56-58 cm. I probably don't have long arms so I have to put on shorter handlebar stems such as 80 mm rather than 110 or 110 mm. I kinda like the feeling of being able to stretch out a bit on a slightly larger frame.
Scott
Scott
#12
Almost every bike I own is 'too big' for me. I'm 5'10" on a good day with an average build except for an extra 30# or so and I'm very happy on anything in the 60-64cm range and feel cramped on most frames in the 56-59 range. As long as the package is pushed to one side and I can get a foot on the ground all is cool.
#13
El Duderino
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 492
Likes: 2
From: Madison, WI
Bikes: 84 Raleigh Portage, 83 Trek 620
I need a very long top tube to get stretched out. With a straight top tube that is going to always put my boys in harm's way. I've also got a long torso, 6'5" wingspan and 6'2" tall. Came in useful when I was playing hoops, but had to give it up when I hurt my knee 4 years ago.
Maybe we should change this forum to the classic and vintage knuckle-draggers.
Maybe we should change this forum to the classic and vintage knuckle-draggers.
#14
Senior Member



Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 18,771
Likes: 11,500
Neal
#15
Thread Starter
King of the molehills
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 0
From: Detroit 'burbs, east side.
Bikes: '04 Giant OCR2, DIY light tourer built on on Scattante cross frame, '87 Schwinn World Sport F/G conversion, '85 Schwinn Super Le Tour
Thank you all. That is what I'd suspected. Now I can widen my search! There is a nice looking 50cm Centurion Iron Man on eBay right now I'm watching (as others here are, no doubt), if I don't get the 49cm Trek frame I'm bidding on.
#16
the whole professional fitting thing is overated imo, provided you have an idea of your reach and height requirements. I can see it if you are racing or riding a ton of miles regularly but I have managed to fit myself on 5 different bikes, none of which match exactly in frame dimensions, without being "fitted". And I have somehow managed to do long rides comfortably on them, which is my main criteria for fit, not necessarily performance.
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1989 Schwinn Paramount OS
1980 Mclean/Silk Hope Sport Touring
1983 Bianchi pista
1976 Fuji Feather track
1979 raleigh track
"I've consulted my sources and I'm pretty sure your derailleur does not exist"
1989 Schwinn Paramount OS
1980 Mclean/Silk Hope Sport Touring
1983 Bianchi pista
1976 Fuji Feather track
1979 raleigh track
"I've consulted my sources and I'm pretty sure your derailleur does not exist"
#17
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,936
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It's really hard for me to believe that you would fit over a 49cm frame but not a 50. I think that ideally, you want standover, but, it doesn't have to be an exact thing, just enough that you can straddle it with your feet on the ground. You straddle a frame with your pubic bone, not your boys.
Also, when I hear 49 cm, I immediately think of a European frame measured centre to centre. That's actually about the same or a little taller than a 50 cm frame measured centre to top.
Also, when I hear 49 cm, I immediately think of a European frame measured centre to centre. That's actually about the same or a little taller than a 50 cm frame measured centre to top.
Last edited by Longfemur; 02-06-09 at 06:18 PM.
#18
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,978
Likes: 4
From: Atlanta
Bikes: Cannondale T700s and a few others
There was a time when it was common for bike manufactures would raise the bottom bracket instead of lowering the to top tube to make a bike fit. The seat post would be the correct length but the raised BB allowed them to shorten the top tube with less tire interference.
Within reason you should be fine. I would be more concerned about reach. If you have to put the seat too far forward you will get into a bad riding position for your knees and/or you will have a tendency to to sit on the nose of the seat and put the hurt on down there. I ride bikes a little short for my legs because most of my height is in my legs. I have a 35inch inseam but only 6ft tall. That makes my comfortable reach more in line with somebody about 5'10".
Within reason you should be fine. I would be more concerned about reach. If you have to put the seat too far forward you will get into a bad riding position for your knees and/or you will have a tendency to to sit on the nose of the seat and put the hurt on down there. I ride bikes a little short for my legs because most of my height is in my legs. I have a 35inch inseam but only 6ft tall. That makes my comfortable reach more in line with somebody about 5'10".
#19
Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 17,196
Likes: 761
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
There was a time when it was common for bike manufactures would raise the bottom bracket instead of lowering the to top tube to make a bike fit. The seat post would be the correct length but the raised BB allowed them to shorten the top tube with less tire interference.
Within reason you should be fine. I would be more concerned about reach. If you have to put the seat too far forward you will get into a bad riding position for your knees and/or you will have a tendency to to sit on the nose of the seat and put the hurt on down there. I ride bikes a little short for my legs because most of my height is in my legs. I have a 35inch inseam but only 6ft tall. That makes my comfortable reach more in line with somebody about 5'10".
Within reason you should be fine. I would be more concerned about reach. If you have to put the seat too far forward you will get into a bad riding position for your knees and/or you will have a tendency to to sit on the nose of the seat and put the hurt on down there. I ride bikes a little short for my legs because most of my height is in my legs. I have a 35inch inseam but only 6ft tall. That makes my comfortable reach more in line with somebody about 5'10".
#20
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,642
Likes: 1,106
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Stand over height is something that they only started worrying about comparatively recently, in fact it pretty much matches when people started sueing companies because they were stupid and the company did not take that into consideration. In the old days the only thing anyone worried about was whether they could reach the pedals; and I have seen old bikes with blocks on the pedals to make that posible. If you look at some books about bicycle history you will notice that while people were shorter on average back then their bike were much bigger than today.
Personally, I like a frame that I can put one foot on the pedal and the other on the ground which makes it safe to stop at a light, If I tried to straddle it flatfooted it would be a definite "ouch!"
Personally, I like a frame that I can put one foot on the pedal and the other on the ground which makes it safe to stop at a light, If I tried to straddle it flatfooted it would be a definite "ouch!"
#22
Chrome Freak
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 26
From: Kuna, ID
Bikes: 71 Chrome Paramount P13-9, 73 Opaque Blue Paramount P15, 74 Blue Mink Raleigh Pro, 91 Waterford Paramount, Holland Titanium x2
I'd rather have them too big than too small.
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1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
#23
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,398
Likes: 1,865
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Fashion has changed radically over the years. As many vintage racing photos attest, riders used to go for relatively tall frames. I happily rode a too-tall Nishiki for 20 years, but the short top tube compensated somewhat. I gave my Peugeot PKN-10 to my elder son because it always felt too big, even after I installed a minimum-reach stem. (Its top tube was significantly longer than the Nishiki's, and this influenced my emotional perception of the height of the top tube.)
Fortunately, both Capos and my Bianchi fit me perfectly, with 55cm C-T seat tubes just barely providing standover clearance and top tubes giving me a 45-degree back angle with my hands on the hoods. Since my right forearm is at least a cm shorter than my left, I have to compromise my longitudinal fitting, much as those of you with unequal leg lengths have to compromise your seat height adjustment.
Fortunately, both Capos and my Bianchi fit me perfectly, with 55cm C-T seat tubes just barely providing standover clearance and top tubes giving me a 45-degree back angle with my hands on the hoods. Since my right forearm is at least a cm shorter than my left, I have to compromise my longitudinal fitting, much as those of you with unequal leg lengths have to compromise your seat height adjustment.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#24
I am 6' and can stand over 33 1/2" which means I can ride a 60cm horizontal tt frame. I had one and it just felt too big. I prefer a 57 or 58c, with 32 1/2 so height. Maybe I like it because it handles quicker?
I am not an expert just know what feels right.
I am not an expert just know what feels right.




