A couple of thoughts from alot of cycling years. I started riding as an adult in 1973. I was oh,so impressed with the latest Campy parts and bought my stuff piece meal, because of price. I have never had a problem with adjusting any quality brake. I always used the speciel seratted Campy washers and clamped down firm. Then made final adjustment with a small hammer and brass punch.
I used Campy brakes till a couple of years ago, and then discovered Mafac Competitions with Cool Stops.
No way is the SP in the same class of power.
I also use Dia Compe straddle cables ( shorter then Mafac ) after reaming the end holes out on the arms. The shorter the straddle, the quicker the pull starts.
You'll notice on the front cable hanger stop, there is some daylight between the hanger and the headset adjusting cup. As you squeeze your brakes the hanger pulls back towards the bike. Usually an extra washer behind the stop nut will press against the top cup, removing the flex.
If you have a friend with a small milling machine, buy some small brass stock from your local hardware store, and give him a set of the teflon brake arm washers and bushings from your Shimano, dia Compe, or Weinmann brakes and ask him to make you a set out of the brass.
The Competitions already have the brass bushings all they need are the washers.
I'm in the process now of brazing on the Mafac mounts to my stays.
As the small amounts of flex here and there are removed, you pick up power, speed of modulating, and quiet. Then you also have the extra clearance for mud or fenders.
This sounds like a lot of work, and it is. But, I'm retired and have my own metal machinery, so for me, it's just another project.

Left-over from April Fools...April Fools 2007!

Well, if Weinmann and Dia-Compe were making them...

-Kurt

Mike,

Delgado Cross. I really like them and was lucky enough to get them on sale on the interweb. I paid $27 per rim. I recenlty went looking for them and was only able to find them for about $42 a piece.

One thing about the Campy sidepulls was that they had the best quick release ever. You can move it to any setting and it will stay, it's not just on/off. I've been using mine hard for almost 30 years now, and the quick release will still stay at any position you set it to.

After suffering through lots of mediocre sidepulls on old bikes, I wasn't expecting much when I acquired a '75 Peugeot with Mafac racers. They are amazing! I really love them. And they accept canti post-style pads. They're fairly easy to set up (and would be much easier if I had a 3rd hand tool), accept really large tires, and have been trouble-free. Plus that impressive stopping power.

After our discussion started on centerpulls, I bought a set of Tourneys to check them out. Mine already have a S-Steel bushing in place with teflon washers.
A 6 pt 12mm socket will remove the speciel made pivot screw which appears to be 11 1/2 mm. The return springs are the strongest I've ever grabbed ahold of. They will tear a knuckle off.
I also measured them in comparision to the Mafac Competetion. Assuming they go on the same bike and your shoes are in the same spot. Measuring the pivots and cable attachment points shows the Tourneys should clamp a good bit more pressure then the Mafacs.
The Tourney cross bridge hangs lower by 2mm, and the arms are 4mm longer. So it's like using a set of long handled plyers vs a short handled set. The amount of squeeze is greater on the Tourneys then Mafacs. I'll measure a set of Dia Compes , but, I feel they are less also.

i have shimano tourney brakes. im having trouble getting the pads to strike the rim at the same time. i think it has to do with the cable connector between the brake cable and the cable between the two brake arms not being centred. if i move it by hand it eventially moves back out of centre from using the brake.

is there a method to get it centred, or shoud i try a modern MTB v brake style connector, which has a locking screw?


the cable between the two arms is also a little rusty. i dont think i can get a new one the right length, and with the two stops on either end. how can i make/get a new cable the right length with stops on both ends?