Where could i find this info? I'm looking for weights on different rims that I can compare with today's offerings. I could buy new rims or wheels to use on my vintage and drop weight but if my vintage aluminum wheels are of similar weight then I just don't see the point.

Not a weight weenie but certainly upgrading wheels can make a difference if the originals are heavy.

I have Matrix Titan right now and will look at Weinmann 2120 shortly.

Weight Weenies.

Rims are often heavier nowadays, especially on pre-built wheels, to compensate strength-wise for low spoke counts. So the wheels may be lighter while the rotating weight (which really counts) may be higher. There's also the issue of whether joining methods and manufacturing tolerances have improved. Then there's the issue of durability. All of these may factor into a decision as to whether to go with current or older rims. Or none of them - I'm no expert, but did research this a bit recently while purchasing for an upcoming build.

This is THE place. You may not be a weight weenie, but generations of weight weenies have gone before you and left their wisdom on that site.

You will probably find that many vintage wheels are lighter than modern ones. I had a custom set made 2 years back using modern hubs, Sapim spokes and Mavic NOS tubular rims, that came in at 1500g the set with skewers, for way less $$ than a Mavic factory wheelset at that weight.

Picchio - I graduated from Millersville U, rode those nice rolling farmlands for a little bit, they kicked my butt. Thanks for the info, I'm seriously thinking I should just rebuild with the hub I want and the old rims since I may not notice a change just by going newer. My wallet will be lighter though.


Road fan and John - I looked at weight weenie and they don't show the specific rims but it does give me an idea. Thanks.


Another question, is 622x19 a road rim size? Is it more of a touring size? I'll check some out that are for sale and see if it's worth it, as I have some current wheels that are getting worn, but am not sure exactly what size they are.

622x19 is a road rim size, yes. 622 in a road width is what is commonly known as 700C (622 is the bead diameter).

Yeah, I'm more concerned about the 19mm width. I have a 90 trek with the weak Matrix ISO CII rims that are starting to go south on me but I don't want to get something that is much wider.

I'll have to measure the outer size and just go by that I guess.

What rims are you interested in, again? I looked at a few when I ordered my wheels, and I may be able to find some insight for you.

I'm looking at Weinmann 2120 NOS today, so I'll see if they are better. I've not started looking at brand new wheels but would like to move to 130 or 135 spacing to update my vintage Trek to 8 or 9 indexed shifting.

Front wheel comparisons are easy old v. new, but not rears.
New Rear wheels equivalent weight as ridden compared to old Rear wheels will be lighter because a cheap, heavy cassette is lighter than most freewheels, even with the additional 3-5 cogs.

OOps, sorry, Nomad, I'm not familiar with those, or really any Weinmann rims!

Saw the wheels and 19mm is way too wide for me. Seemed light enough and well made though.

I've got a wide range of C&V and modern wheel sets, nothing "top end" like a Zipp or a CF wheel, though.

I've found the best mix of strenght, weight, and hubs is a good C&V ball bearing hub laced to some light C&V rims. Packed, trued, and tensioned, they are lighter and nearly as stiff as my modern Bontrager Races or Ksyrium Elites.

With some of the lighter C&V rims, like the Araya Super Hards or the Wolber Super Champion Alpines, 36 holes and proper spoke tensioning is needed up front to keep them true, but they are still lighter on Dura Ace ball bearing hubs than my modern sets.

I've not tried them with sealed hubs. Just didn't seem right.