Acid Bath Info
#1
Thread Starter
I drank the Kool-Aid!
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 562
Likes: 4
From: Harrisburg, PA
Bikes: Rivendell Roadini, Rivendell Charlie Gallop Protovelo, Rivendell Clem L
Acid Bath Info
I did a search and get lots of posts about people doing the acid bath but I did not find what I needed to do this.
If I wanted to do a whole bike (essentially but in parts) in a kiddie pool what do I need to buy to put into the water? I will be heading out tonight to buy it and had no idea what to look for.
Thanks!
If I wanted to do a whole bike (essentially but in parts) in a kiddie pool what do I need to buy to put into the water? I will be heading out tonight to buy it and had no idea what to look for.
Thanks!
#2
Rustbelt Rider
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,105
Likes: 390
From: Canton, OH
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
Oxalic acid, aka wood bleach. Get the concentrated crystals, not the premixed deck wash. You can find it at paint stores like Sherwin williams for around 7-10 dollars. You will also need baking soda for a neutralizing bath and sponge to wipe the parts with.
For small parts I use plain old vinegar. Throw some rusty bolts in a can, let them sit for 2 days and rinse clean.
You need this stuff:
For small parts I use plain old vinegar. Throw some rusty bolts in a can, let them sit for 2 days and rinse clean.
You need this stuff:
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#3
Oxalic acid, aka wood bleach. Get the concentrated crystals, not the premixed deck wash. You can find it at paint stores like Sherwin williams for around 7-10 dollars. You will also need baking soda for a neutralizing bath and sponge to wipe the parts with.
For small parts I use plain old vinegar. Throw some rusty bolts in a can, let them sit for 2 days and rinse clean.
You need this stuff:

For small parts I use plain old vinegar. Throw some rusty bolts in a can, let them sit for 2 days and rinse clean.
You need this stuff:

#4
Rustbelt Rider
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,105
Likes: 390
From: Canton, OH
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
You could, but I meant was that I use Vinegar for bolts and small parts.
I use mostly vinegar for a few reasons:
-it does the exact same thing as oxalic acid, just takes a bit longer
-5% diluted vinegar is less toxic to work with (right?)
-It's cheap in small quantities (obviously you would have to buy a whole lot to fill a kiddie pool, and
that would be expensive.)
The only drawbacks:
-it smells
-it takes longer
I use mostly vinegar for a few reasons:
-it does the exact same thing as oxalic acid, just takes a bit longer
-5% diluted vinegar is less toxic to work with (right?)
-It's cheap in small quantities (obviously you would have to buy a whole lot to fill a kiddie pool, and
that would be expensive.)
The only drawbacks:
-it smells
-it takes longer
__________________
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
#7
Yes - keep it far away from kids and pets. If Mr. Kitty or Rover gets some on their paws, it will burn and they will lick - dead pets! Neutralize all spills with baking-soda and wash and sweep up the residue. If you're going to use corrosive poisons, it's your responsibility to know what their dangers are and be able to use them safely.
#8
Thread Starter
I drank the Kool-Aid!
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 562
Likes: 4
From: Harrisburg, PA
Bikes: Rivendell Roadini, Rivendell Charlie Gallop Protovelo, Rivendell Clem L
You guys are maybe making me rethink this. The frame only has small bits of rust so maybe this whole thing would be overkill. For some reason it seems way more daunting now
#9
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,645
Likes: 1,109
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Huh? I have used it on many painted frames. Just keep it away from aluminum.
Oxalic is a great solution for internal rust. It is basically impossible to treat it/remove it any other way.
But for a couple of really small surface spots, I would just use one of the commercial rust converters. Walmart sells it for $6.
Oxalic is a great solution for internal rust. It is basically impossible to treat it/remove it any other way.
But for a couple of really small surface spots, I would just use one of the commercial rust converters. Walmart sells it for $6.
Last edited by wrk101; 05-05-09 at 02:59 PM. Reason: clarification
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Bikes: '82 Trek 613, '83 Lotus Eclair, '86 (?) Yokota Ranger, '85 Schwinn Cimarron
oxalic acid is very environmentally hazardous. please dispose of it properly. do internet research and figure out where you would take it after you do this, do not just leave it curbside.
#11
Thread Starter
I drank the Kool-Aid!
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 562
Likes: 4
From: Harrisburg, PA
Bikes: Rivendell Roadini, Rivendell Charlie Gallop Protovelo, Rivendell Clem L
Huh? I have used it on many painted frames. Just keep it away from aluminum.
Oxalic is a great solution for internal rust. It is basically impossible to treat it/remove it any other way.
But for a couple of really small surface spots, I would just use one of the commercial rust converters. Walmart sells it for $6.
Oxalic is a great solution for internal rust. It is basically impossible to treat it/remove it any other way.
But for a couple of really small surface spots, I would just use one of the commercial rust converters. Walmart sells it for $6.
#12
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,645
Likes: 1,109
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
If you do a search on oxalic acid, just remember, you will be using it as a very dilute, less than 1% solution. I put one to one and a half tubs of oxalic (about 18 ounces) in an entire kiddie pool of water (thats less than 0.25%). Of course, while handling the crystals themselves, you are handling it at full strength.
But if you are uncomfortable handling oxalic acid, or any other chemical product, then you should avoid it.
Last edited by wrk101; 05-05-09 at 05:32 PM. Reason: clarification
#13
Seņor Member



Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 1,568
From: Hardy, VA
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
I got mine at a local True Value hardware. I've used only a small quantity, and re-used it (with freshening of the water), several dozen times. Don't use it on aluminum for more than about 30 minutes, or it will turn it green. Check on your steel bits after a couple hours. It may take a whole day to get it how you want, but you can go a couple hours, then rinse, and then put it back in.
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#14
You could dump any excess into a plastic-bucket. Then add a few scoops of lime - the stuff you put on lawns for acid soil conditions. Add water and mix together. This forms calcium oxalate. This is insoluble and doesn't pose any toxic-waste hazard. No more so than growing Rhubarb - which contains calcium oxalate naturally. This can be safely washed down a drain as waste-water.





