Can I...?
#2
Unique Vintage Steel



Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 287
From: Allen, TX
Bikes: Kirk Frameworks JKS-C, Serotta Nova, Gazelle AB-Frame, Fuji Team Issue, Surly Straggler
As long as you have a properly adjusted rear derailleur you should not encounter any problems.
#3
Someone had done just that on a bike and posted about it not long ago. He was having shifting issues due to the increased spacing between the first cog and the dropout. I think he solved the issue with a freewheel spacer.
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72 Frejus (for sale), Holdsworth Record (for sale), special CNC & Gitane Interclub / 74 Italvega NR (for sale) / c80 French / 82 Raleigh Intl MkII f&f (for sale)/ 83 Trek 620 (for sale)/ 84 Bruce Gordon Chinook (for sale)/ 85 Ron Cooper / 87 Centurion IM MV (for sale) / 03 Casati Dardo / 08 BF IRO / 09 Dogma FPX / 09 Giant TCX0 / 10 Vassago Fisticuff
#5
Rustbelt Rider
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,105
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From: Canton, OH
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
I am using a 5speed freewheel on my 126mm spaced Raleigh without any issues. I didn't have to use a spacer to make it work either.
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#7
Buh'wah?!

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,086
Likes: 2
From: Charlottesville VA
Bikes: 2014 Giant Trance
#10
Well...
Period correctness, mostly.
The Gios (heehee) has 126 spacing, (spread there, we believe?) and I've got a 126 Record hub, and even a 7-speed freewheel, a Shimano Santé, but the 7-speed looks really clunky to my eye, and the corncob Regina Oro looks pretty damn sweet. Small and light and teeny-weeny-racey!
Dunno. Just a thought.
-Nick
Period correctness, mostly.
The Gios (heehee) has 126 spacing, (spread there, we believe?) and I've got a 126 Record hub, and even a 7-speed freewheel, a Shimano Santé, but the 7-speed looks really clunky to my eye, and the corncob Regina Oro looks pretty damn sweet. Small and light and teeny-weeny-racey!
Dunno. Just a thought.
-Nick
#11
www.theheadbadge.com



Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Southern Florida
Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com
The only case wherein I would be reluctant to have the large gap between dropout and small cog would be with an NR or SR derailer. The offset low-stop compensation (for getting around the NR/SR's overshifting problem into the last cog) would render the chances of dropping the chain in the gap too high.
-Kurt
-Kurt
#12
Oh. Well, it was going to be a NR derailleur. 
Admittedly, I was not familiar with any of the problems of overshifting on these DR's.
(and on a completely seperate note)
In better news, the UCI is going to start pushing back towards "normaller" bikes, as opposed to the really exotic stuff!

Admittedly, I was not familiar with any of the problems of overshifting on these DR's.
(and on a completely seperate note)
In better news, the UCI is going to start pushing back towards "normaller" bikes, as opposed to the really exotic stuff!
#13
Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 17,196
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
I haven't seen this problem - yes, there is overshift, but I've never seen it this bad. I really don't think the dropout inner face is part of a chain-jam prevention system.
I'd start with the NR. If it won't adjust right on the stand or a gentle test ride, there may be a problem, but you can reduce overshift by moving the wheel forward or backward in the chainstay. You want to shorten the free length of chain between the cog and the jockey wheel.
I'd start with the NR. If it won't adjust right on the stand or a gentle test ride, there may be a problem, but you can reduce overshift by moving the wheel forward or backward in the chainstay. You want to shorten the free length of chain between the cog and the jockey wheel.
Last edited by Road Fan; 05-10-09 at 09:27 PM.








