Which to Keep? Vintage Trek vs Italvega
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Which to Keep? Vintage Trek vs Italvega
I need to sell one of my two bikes soon.
My question to you is, which one to keep? They are both about the same size and fit, and both are in fair physical condition with lots of scratches.
Is one intrinsically more rare or valuable than the other?
What would be a fair asking price for either?
The two bicycles:
First, a vintage Trek I got at local co-op:
(The handlebars aren't actually crooked, just in this photo)
Second, an old Italvega I can't determine the year or model of. All the decals have come off except for the square Columbus sticker on the seattube and the 'made in italy' sticker. The stock parts were Campy Nuovo Record derailleurs, crank, headset, Suntour Superbe brakes and levers, Campy dropouts. Any guesses as to the year or model of this one? I picked it up off Craigslist, it had considerable rust in some places and all the chrome is pitted.
Thanks in advance for any knowledge/advice!
My question to you is, which one to keep? They are both about the same size and fit, and both are in fair physical condition with lots of scratches.
Is one intrinsically more rare or valuable than the other?
What would be a fair asking price for either?
The two bicycles:
First, a vintage Trek I got at local co-op:
(The handlebars aren't actually crooked, just in this photo)
- Brand:Trek
- Model:730
- Year: 1979
- Frame Material: Reynolds 531 Lugged Steel
- Frame Size: 22.5" (57.15cm)
- Serial #: I3B9B80
- Stem:SR (stock)
- Handlebars:
- Headset: Campagnolo (stock)
- Brake Levers: Shimano Dura-Ace
- Shifters: Shimano downtube
- Front Derailleur: Campagnolo
- Rear Derailleur: Shimano
- Dropouts: Campagnolo
- Brakes: Suntour Superbe, calipers (stock)
- Bottom Bracket: Campagnolo (stock)
- Crank: Sugino Double, 39-51
- Pedals: Specialized platform
- Saddle: Selle Italia
- Seatpost: Promax carbon
- Front Wheel: Campy rim, laced to Mavic hub
- Rear Wheel: Mavic G40 laced to Campy hub, Shimano Dura-Ace freewheel 13-21
Second, an old Italvega I can't determine the year or model of. All the decals have come off except for the square Columbus sticker on the seattube and the 'made in italy' sticker. The stock parts were Campy Nuovo Record derailleurs, crank, headset, Suntour Superbe brakes and levers, Campy dropouts. Any guesses as to the year or model of this one? I picked it up off Craigslist, it had considerable rust in some places and all the chrome is pitted.
- Brand: Italvega
- Model: ?
- Year: ?
- Frame Material: Columbus Lugged Steel
- Frame Size: 58cm
- Serial #: *410661*
- Stem: 3TTT
- Handlebars: 3TTT
- Headset: Campagnolo (stock)
- Brake Levers: Cane Creek
- Shifters: Suntour bar-end (stock)
- Front Derailleur: Shimano
- Rear Derailleur: Campagnolo (stock)
- Dropouts: Campagnolo
- Brakes: Suntour Superbe calipers (stock)
- Bottom Bracket: Simano Ultegra Octalink
- Crank: Shimano Dura-Ace Octalink, 39-53
- Pedals: Super 8 powder-coated
- Saddle: Nashbar
- Seatpost: Generic aluminum
- Front Wheel: Mavic Kysrium
- Rear Wheel: Mavic MA-40 Rim laced to vintage Campy hub, Suntour freewheel 13-29
Thanks in advance for any knowledge/advice!
Last edited by Purp; 06-07-09 at 12:38 PM.
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I don't think I've ever seen an Italvega (precursor to Univega...once the company moved from Italy to Japan)
Transfer all the good (campy, mavic, dura ace, superbe) stuff to the Italvega, vice versa to the Trek, sell the Trek.
That's my gut call...but my gut isn't the most C&V savvy gut out here
Transfer all the good (campy, mavic, dura ace, superbe) stuff to the Italvega, vice versa to the Trek, sell the Trek.
That's my gut call...but my gut isn't the most C&V savvy gut out here
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I thought I would have an easy choice, but both are great finds.
I was going to go with whichever was kitted out as original, but neither one is, so that's thrown out the window.
How much elbow grease do you plan on putting into these before a sale? That'll affect the sales price quite a bit.
Ride 'em both for a month. That'll help you make your choice.
I was going to go with whichever was kitted out as original, but neither one is, so that's thrown out the window.
How much elbow grease do you plan on putting into these before a sale? That'll affect the sales price quite a bit.
Ride 'em both for a month. That'll help you make your choice.
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72 Frejus (for sale), Holdsworth Record (for sale), special CNC & Gitane Interclub / 74 Italvega NR (for sale) / c80 French / 82 Raleigh Intl MkII f&f (for sale)/ 83 Trek 620 (for sale)/ 84 Bruce Gordon Chinook (for sale)/ 85 Ron Cooper / 87 Centurion IM MV (for sale) / 03 Casati Dardo / 08 BF IRO / 09 Dogma FPX / 09 Giant TCX0 / 10 Vassago Fisticuff
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Where I live early Trek bikes seem to hold their value like old Harleys. The exterior rust wouldn't be real hard to repair provided you've got the time to take the bike apart, carefully sand the rusty spots, repaint the bare metal with a few coats of automotive touch-up paint, and polish the painted areas to blend the new paint in. Doing so would boost the bike's value considerably. However, if the inside of the frame of either bike is badly rusted then exterior paint repair wouldn't be worth the effort and you might be out of luck on getting any real money for them.
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I would remove the bottom bracket on both bikes and see what the rust factor is inside the shell because that's where the heavy rust if any will be. It appears the Trek is in the worst condition of the two, and I bet you will find substantial rust in the bottom bracket shell since the Trek and the Italvega were sealed, meaning there is no drain slots or holes to allow moisture to run out. If you want either bike to survive longer your going to have (or at least should) drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the bottom bracket shell (with the bottom bracket removed as to not accidently drill into it).
Like others have said, remove the best componets from which ever bike your keeping and transfer the parts to the best frame. Both the older Campy and Superbe stuff is great for resale. I would probably keep the Campy stuff on the Italvega since that's what came with it originally.
Like others have said, remove the best componets from which ever bike your keeping and transfer the parts to the best frame. Both the older Campy and Superbe stuff is great for resale. I would probably keep the Campy stuff on the Italvega since that's what came with it originally.
#7
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Keep them both! If you must sell one, convert it to single speed, and keep the leftover parts for yourself. People appreciate single speed conversions, and you'll appreciate a superbe brakeset in your closet (find some dia comp calipers or something to replace them).
I really like the look of those earlier Trek decals, but the Italvega is surely a rarer find, though I don't find it as appealing. Thats why I say keep both. Use the Trek as a winter/ all weather bike, and reserve the other for nicer days. Rebuild them both completely, and cover rust spots with clear nail polish. If you need the money, buy another bike or two real cheap by surfing cl and garage sales, and flip them.
I really like the look of those earlier Trek decals, but the Italvega is surely a rarer find, though I don't find it as appealing. Thats why I say keep both. Use the Trek as a winter/ all weather bike, and reserve the other for nicer days. Rebuild them both completely, and cover rust spots with clear nail polish. If you need the money, buy another bike or two real cheap by surfing cl and garage sales, and flip them.
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Actually, the Trek looks like an early one. I'd keep them both, but then I easily have 50 bikes...
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tough call. I know the Italvega has more style points, and the Campy bling, but...that Trek is no slouch either, just a different animal and really could use more work in the rust removal and paint dept. If you want to repaint one: keep the Trek.
I'd pull the BB of BOTH to scope the internal rust: just cause the Italvega doesn't show as much externally, don't assume without checking.
Get a can of FrameSaver and treat them both, whatever you keep.
I'd pull the BB of BOTH to scope the internal rust: just cause the Italvega doesn't show as much externally, don't assume without checking.
Get a can of FrameSaver and treat them both, whatever you keep.
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I am sorry to hear you have to give up on of your bikes. while I am not a fan of either make parting with a good steel frame, especially lugged with nice crowned forks can't be easy. I might consider selling my TV first.
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DON'T CONVERT EITHER BIKE INTO A SINGLE SPEED, nothing like trying to basterize a classic bike just because of a stupid "trend".
I also vote for the Italvega and leaving the Campy stuff on it; and any Campy stuff missing over the years due to parts failure, I would get on E-Bay and find the correct part or parts to restore it back to near original.
I also vote for the Italvega and leaving the Campy stuff on it; and any Campy stuff missing over the years due to parts failure, I would get on E-Bay and find the correct part or parts to restore it back to near original.
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Wow, thanks for all the suggestions.
Yeah they are both mutts that received whatever was laying around my house or the co-op. I tried to keep any original components, except for the brake levers because I like aero ones.
Great idea, I hadn't thought of that. (Unfortunately I don't have the tool to pull the Octalink BB from the Italvega.)
Is this common practice for older bikes? Drilling into my frame scares me!
Even if the chrome shows significant pitting? Can this be helped with this polish or do they have to be re-chromed?
It actually shows a little more, just not as obviously, mostly on the underside of tubes. I'll post some more photos soon.
Cool, will do.
Agree %100, I'm moving cross-country in one car with someone who has their own bike and we just don't have enough room.
Seatposts are fine, I do need to check the stems, both binding bolts have been stripped a little.
Even if the chrome shows significant pitting? Can this be helped with this polish or do they have to be re-chromed?
Cool, will do.
Seatposts are fine, I do need to check the stems, both binding bolts have been stripped a little.
Last edited by Purp; 06-07-09 at 02:06 PM.
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if you have a standard crank remover you might try placing a washer against the Octalink spindle end and pressing against that. I don't remember what size fits but a "fender style" with a small hole is best.
Good luck.
Drilling a small drain hole in the BB shell is no bigee, but do use a sharp bit and center punch first, you don't want the bit wandering around. They used to sell a little check valve you could install in your drain: sort of over-kill for the anal retentive, but whatever...I'd just keep the frame dry and everything greased, plus liberal FrameSaver.
Good luck.
Drilling a small drain hole in the BB shell is no bigee, but do use a sharp bit and center punch first, you don't want the bit wandering around. They used to sell a little check valve you could install in your drain: sort of over-kill for the anal retentive, but whatever...I'd just keep the frame dry and everything greased, plus liberal FrameSaver.
Last edited by unworthy1; 06-07-09 at 06:28 PM.
#19
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I would keep the Itiavega; BUT, it boils down to which you prefer riding. I am in a similar place between a Lotus and a Trek right now. The trek will probably hold a higher value, but the Lotus rides much better. Bye bye Trek.
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Update: problems with both stems.
On the Italvega, I loosed the stem bolt completely and tapped it lightly with a hammer to loosen the wedge at the bottom, but no amount of twisting and turning will get it to budge, at all. I'm having some problems getting any leverage on the handlebars, as I don't want to risk damaging my front wheel. Any good tips on how to keep the fork stable whilst trying to twist the handebars/stem safely?
The place to put a hew wrench in the stem bolt for the Trek is almost completely stripped, I can't loosen the bolt at all.
On the Italvega, I loosed the stem bolt completely and tapped it lightly with a hammer to loosen the wedge at the bottom, but no amount of twisting and turning will get it to budge, at all. I'm having some problems getting any leverage on the handlebars, as I don't want to risk damaging my front wheel. Any good tips on how to keep the fork stable whilst trying to twist the handebars/stem safely?
The place to put a hew wrench in the stem bolt for the Trek is almost completely stripped, I can't loosen the bolt at all.
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as for the frozen stems, I'd suggest getting some nut/bolt loosening oil, and start applying it around the stem's entry to the headset. Do a light application and try to see if it will slowly seep down in there. If it does, give it another application or two and then start to lightly tap side to side on the stem with a plastic or rubber malet to see if it will break free.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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Update: problems with both stems.
On the Italvega, I loosed the stem bolt completely and tapped it lightly with a hammer to loosen the wedge at the bottom, but no amount of twisting and turning will get it to budge, at all. I'm having some problems getting any leverage on the handlebars, as I don't want to risk damaging my front wheel. Any good tips on how to keep the fork stable whilst trying to twist the handebars/stem safely?
The place to put a hew wrench in the stem bolt for the Trek is almost completely stripped, I can't loosen the bolt at all.
On the Italvega, I loosed the stem bolt completely and tapped it lightly with a hammer to loosen the wedge at the bottom, but no amount of twisting and turning will get it to budge, at all. I'm having some problems getting any leverage on the handlebars, as I don't want to risk damaging my front wheel. Any good tips on how to keep the fork stable whilst trying to twist the handebars/stem safely?
The place to put a hew wrench in the stem bolt for the Trek is almost completely stripped, I can't loosen the bolt at all.
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Stuck parts
Call around to your local gun shops and find some;
Kroil "the oil that creeps" penetrating oil.
Apply, let soak for a feww days & then teystapping with a ballpeen hammer.
Good Luck
Kroil "the oil that creeps" penetrating oil.
Apply, let soak for a feww days & then teystapping with a ballpeen hammer.
Good Luck
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Italvega, because I would always default toward chrome lugs.
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#25
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If just one then the Italvega. If anything I believe it would be harder to replace were you to change your mind in a few months..
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