Updating older bicycles...
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, AZ
Bikes: 1970's Peugeot U0-8
Updating older bicycles...
Currently I use a early '70s Peugeot for commuting to work, about 7 miles one way. The bike was originally purchased by my father who also used it to get to work on occasion. Due to the front derailuer breaking, I am down to 5 speeds from the original 10. Also am on the original wheels, chromed steel. Other than a new seat, bar tape, brake hoods, brake pads, and requisite tires and tubes the bike is original parts.
In general terms, (realizing pictures would be probably be helpful) what would produce the most noticeable difference in terms of updated parts? I would describe myself as a casual rider meaning I don't need bleeding edge technology. Usually average about 14 MPH on my commute. Majority of my riding is unaffected by only having 5 speeds, not hilly enough. I have been on the fence about continuing with the current ride or purchasing a new bike and just wanted to get some more information about updating parts and what a difference it might make.
Also, if pictures would aid in comments, let me know and I will post some pictures tomorrow when I get home from work. Let me know if I left out any other info that would be helpful. Thanks.
In general terms, (realizing pictures would be probably be helpful) what would produce the most noticeable difference in terms of updated parts? I would describe myself as a casual rider meaning I don't need bleeding edge technology. Usually average about 14 MPH on my commute. Majority of my riding is unaffected by only having 5 speeds, not hilly enough. I have been on the fence about continuing with the current ride or purchasing a new bike and just wanted to get some more information about updating parts and what a difference it might make.
Also, if pictures would aid in comments, let me know and I will post some pictures tomorrow when I get home from work. Let me know if I left out any other info that would be helpful. Thanks.
#2
Wheels with aluminum alloy rims are a good upgrade, in that they make the bike lighter, and also assist in better braking, especially when wet.
A front derailleur is easy and inexpensive to replace. However, without it, running as a 5 speed, as long as you pick your favorite chainring (based on size), should present no real problems either.
A front derailleur is easy and inexpensive to replace. However, without it, running as a 5 speed, as long as you pick your favorite chainring (based on size), should present no real problems either.
#3
+1 on wheels....it makes a noticeable difference in ride quality and is safer (though in Tuscon perhaps wet weather safety is not such a big deal).
I have a late 60's/early 70's low end Peugeot and that was the first thing I changed back in the day - steel to alloy. Still have the bike today though its now on its 3rd set of rims (not wear - just fashion).
If it were me I'd also put on a front derailleur - partly because I like things to work as designed and partly because even a casual rider might want the choice of slow tooling around vs. going faster and the investment of $10-20 would give you that option.
Mark
I have a late 60's/early 70's low end Peugeot and that was the first thing I changed back in the day - steel to alloy. Still have the bike today though its now on its 3rd set of rims (not wear - just fashion).
If it were me I'd also put on a front derailleur - partly because I like things to work as designed and partly because even a casual rider might want the choice of slow tooling around vs. going faster and the investment of $10-20 would give you that option.
Mark
#4
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,554
Likes: 2
From: Southwest Michigan
Bikes: Fuji Monterey, Schwinn Traveler, Fuji Special Road Racer, Gitane Interclub, Sun EZ-1, Schwinn Frontier, Puch Cavalier, Vista Cavalier, Armstrong, Raleigh Sports, Schwinn Stingray
Pictures, yes pictures please, it's like crack to us here.
That being said, how is your front derailleur broken?
and do you still have all the parts?
That being said, how is your front derailleur broken?
and do you still have all the parts?
#5
I agree with the others here. Alloy wheels will make the most noticable difference by lightening the bike and providing better braking. A used front derailleur should be easy to procure. In fact, I have a bunch of extras.
I could send you one no problem. Send those pictures along and I'll see if I have one that fits your bike's seat tube diameter.
I could send you one no problem. Send those pictures along and I'll see if I have one that fits your bike's seat tube diameter.
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In life there are no mistakes, only lessons. -Shin
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Last edited by High Fist Shin; 06-30-09 at 12:18 PM.
#7
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,397
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
#1: salmon KoolStop brake pads
#2: aluminum rims
#3: aluminum crankset
#4: aluminum road quill or platform pedals
#2: aluminum rims
#3: aluminum crankset
#4: aluminum road quill or platform pedals
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#12
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, AZ
Bikes: 1970's Peugeot U0-8
Derailleurs
That is very kind of you Machin Shin to offer up some parts. I appreciate the offer but I think I will decline. The more I read, the more I am leaning toward getting a new bike. I think I will just keep this one running as is. To answer the earlier posters question, the front derailleur has a plastic clamp that holds it to the frame. The plastic cracked, that is how it broke.
#13
I use the same tubs. I have one for FD's, one for RD's, and one for brake calipers. And a few misc. boxes laying about, as well.
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"Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, it’s the triumphant twang of a bedspring."
S. J. Perelman
"Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, it’s the triumphant twang of a bedspring."
S. J. Perelman
#14
__________________
In life there are no mistakes, only lessons. -Shin
In life there are no mistakes, only lessons. -Shin
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 849
Likes: 3
From: Dutchess County, NY
Bikes: Fuji S-12s, Trek Navigator 200, Dahon Vitesse D7, Raleigh Sprite Touring ('70's)
Most of my older bikes have straight cut tooth 5 speed freewheel clusters. They shift OK, but could always be better. I recently picked up a pair of taco'ed wheels with more modern freewheels (still 5 speed) but with some ramps, twisted teeth, etc. Shimano hyperglide, IIRC. How well do they work? Worth the effort to swap them out?
#16
Most of my older bikes have straight cut tooth 5 speed freewheel clusters. They shift OK, but could always be better. I recently picked up a pair of taco'ed wheels with more modern freewheels (still 5 speed) but with some ramps, twisted teeth, etc. Shimano hyperglide, IIRC. How well do they work? Worth the effort to swap them out?
__________________
In life there are no mistakes, only lessons. -Shin
In life there are no mistakes, only lessons. -Shin
#17
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 849
Likes: 3
From: Dutchess County, NY
Bikes: Fuji S-12s, Trek Navigator 200, Dahon Vitesse D7, Raleigh Sprite Touring ('70's)
OK... Maybe once I get the derailleur hanger issue sorted out, a freewheel swap might be the next order of business!









