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Old 06-29-04 | 05:44 AM
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Hello there, everyone! I have the same bike as is seen in this photo (although, saldy, mine is nowhere near as nice as this one.) It is a thrift shop refugee and i love the old thing. My problem is this; I knew when I bought it that the bottom bracket was loose. I had hoped that it was just a result of indifferent care and had come loose over the years. Alas, this doesn't seem to be the case. I think my bottom bracket is gone.

My question; Anyone know how much it would cost me to have a new bottom bracket for this bike installed by a bike shop? Should I do it myself? I would do it myself but I don't own a bb removal tool and also I don't have the proper tool to re-install the cotter pines on the cranks. Can I use a c-clamp on the pins?

Sorry about the length of this post, any information would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry, one more question. Are Bottom brackets of this type still readily available at bike shops? Thanks again.
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Old 06-29-04 | 06:28 AM
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I avoid cotter pins and cottered cranks like the plague hence my answer is see the LBS. Make sure it's one that's been around awhile as alot of newer mechanics might not know what to do either.

The cups and rings should all be Italian threaded and available. If the LBS has the proper tool for removing the cotter pins (a press) then they might be reusable but should be available anyways. If the spindle is shot, I don't know.

If the bike had a cotterless crank with either an old style or modern cartridge BB I'd recommend you buy the tools and do it yourself. The tools aren't real expensive and would be a 1 time investment. However like I said before....I don't deal with cottered cranks. The Mechanic page here has the Barnetts manual in PDF. Take a look.

You could always convert to cotterless, how original is the bike and do you plan on restoring?



Oh yeah, I should've asked this right away: Is the BB loose or are the crank arms loose on the spindle? If it's the BB it shouldn't cost more than whatever your LBS charges to R&R a bottom bracket, assuming they have the tools.
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Old 06-29-04 | 09:07 AM
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I'm not sure if I want to restore this bike as it is in -fairly- good shape right now. I may clean up the paint and there is some minor rust on the chain stay where they meet the bb that could use some attention. I was debating wether or not to restore because I like the way it looks and I'm not afraid to leave it locked up around town.

The crank arms are secure on the spindle, so it is the bb, I'm sure of that. I have a donor (parts) bike that is sitting around taking up space in my garage that has a perfectly usable crankset on it that is cotterless, but I hesitate because I like the look of the cottered cranks on this bike(never mind the fact that the cranks arms are no longer chrome, but kinda rust discoloured).

This bike is just a one time very nice ten speed that has fallen on hard times. I rescued it from it's misery for the price of $15 Canadian. For all it's uglyness, it goes like hell. I've had it up 50kms per hour on a downhill and it was solid as a rock. I bought it with the intention of doing a ss-fixed gear project but have since changed my mind and left it as it was. The fixed project will come later on with another bike.

Onyways, thanks for the reply, I've got some thinking to do.
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Old 06-29-04 | 10:28 AM
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Gurgus, try Central Cycle, they're not too far from you and will tell you if it's worth doing or not.
I had a bb replaced on a mountain bike a few years ago, I think it was around $50, so yours would be at least that much.
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Old 06-29-04 | 10:31 AM
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The only special tools it takes to remove the crank pins are a coupla 2x4s. Put the crank in the "6-oclock" position, with the nut side of the cotter facing up. Put a 2x4, with a notch cut out for the "head" side of the cotter, under the crank; it should be just long enough to reach the floor, and contact/support the arm on either side of the cotter. Unthread the nut so it's flush with the end of the cotter. Put a small piece of 2x4 on top of the nut, and whack it with a hammer. The nut gives you more surface area to take the energy of the hammer-whacks. Once it comes loose, unthread the nut the rest of the way. There's some chance you'll damage the cotters beyond reuse, so have new ones on hand.

Once you get the arms off, maybe all it needs inside is a new set of ball bearings and some fresh grease. Otherwise, if your intention is to maintain a close-to-original look, you may have to find a donor bike with a less-worn cottered crank.
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Old 06-29-04 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Once you get the arms off, maybe all it needs inside is a new set of ball bearings and some fresh grease. Otherwise, if your intention is to maintain a close-to-original look, you may have to find a donor bike with a less-worn cottered crank.
So all I have to do would be to remove the cotter pins and then I'd be able to pull the cranks arms off just like that? Nothing else is holding them on?

Yeah, Pinerider. I've been to Central "High Speed" Cycles a couple of times before. It's a nice little shop. I tend to go to them even thought Main street cycle is closer to my home. I just like the funkyness of the little shop with hardwood floors and all that. Plus, the guys that work work there are friendly enough and seem to know their stuff.
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Old 06-29-04 | 03:39 PM
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"So all I have to do would be to remove the cotter pins and then I'd be able to pull the cranks arms off just like that? "

Well, that's the crux-- those things can be on real tight, esp. if they've sat awhile. Madpogue's advice will work; the only thing I'd add is to spray some oil down into the pin-- WD-40 type or better yet, PB blaster, and let it soak awhile before proceeding to hammer away. I've had cotter pins so stuck in I had to drill the little @#$% out with an electric drill.

I'd convert to cotterless, BTW.
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