My '71 International is the same color, and everything noted about the dreamy ride is true in my experience. I just converted mine from a single front ring to a double so that I can take it on even more adventures. Great catch!

Neal

I don't have any good "after" pictures, and it's raining now, but here's a shot of the chrome after the oxalic acid bath. The paint looks good, too.

thats what you call steppin in sh1t!

great find.

+1 for taking it all the way apart and giving it the kind of overhaul it deserves.

Man, I'd kill for an International. Matter of fact, I'd be more than willing to trade my Professional for an International. I'd love one of those things...but then I'd put metal fenders and racks on it and randonneur the hell out of it.

Whoah! That is awesome. That is exactly the way I would like to get this bike looking. Luckily the bike I received is in really pretty good shape. I don't think it will take much to get it looking really nice. It is already in fine mechanical shape. What I can't get over is how smooth and quiet this bike is. There is no clicking while coasting etc. It is almost stealth. It really is true that they simply do not make things like they used to.

Shifting gears on this thing I just kept thinking, "Where did this type of precision go?" My other bike is a 2008 Redline R750 which is a really a fine bike but the Raleigh is just something special. I think I am going to keep the current wheels on hand but switch it to clinchers for regular riding. I can't wait to take this thing on a club ride and cruise amongst all the fancy, space age, carbon fiber fishing lures

That is exactly what I have in mind for this bike

You should put the brake mounting bolt and spring into that oxalic acid bath. Clean that thing up!

BTW, I am not jealous. I'm not!

That's it.

Even with all the paint scrapes and pitted chrome where the rust was really bad, and cheap replacement parts, it still gets comments when I occasionally bring it on group rides.

I enjoyed the cleanup and maintenance I did on mine. New cables and housing, regreasing the bearings, and new bar tape was easy to do. My stem was stuck due to rust, and I got good ideas from the BF forums on how to get it out. (In this case, some spray PB Blast penetrating oil worked.)

Search for oxalic acid here in BF to clean up the chrome as needed.

+1

Before going after rust with anything abrasive, I would advise trying Happich's Simichrome metal polish. It's paste in a tube, and costs $10-12 for not a lot, but it works pretty well. I can also vouch for oxalic acid as being very effective, but that's something you have to immerse parts in, and you definitely want to keep stuff that's not chrome on steel (cadmium plating, zinc plating or aluminum) out of oxalic acid. You could use oxalic acid if you're willing to tear the frame down completely (I'd do it). However, maybe your rusting isn't that bad. Folks differ about this here, but I'm one who would never use steel wool on chrome (or tinfoil, or any of the other metal-on-metal solutions).

The International is one of my favorite bikes to ride alongside, and just admire how purty it is. Maybe I'll get to ride one someday.

Here is a little update. I was speaking with a good friend who runs a bike shop in Illinois. He has offered to look for some old campy hubs he thinks he may have lying around and build me some wheels with modern spokes and clincher rims. It looks like I am going to be able to keep these original wheels intact and use clinchers for regular riding.

Simichrome is good. I usually use Brasso, though... not because it's better, but because I have some.

penatrating oil put on while rubbing with a wire brush will do wonders for the steel parts.try rubbing compound from the auto supply followed by a good waxing and it should look sweet.always works for me.that is a nice ride

I had one in the same color a few years back, it was a very nice riding bike.

Avoid the wire brush or steel wool. You don't want scratches in the chrome.

A few new pictures. Even with the cheap replacement components, it looks good.
Nobody notices the dull spots on the chrome or the scrapes in the paint.

The back wheel axle was bent, so I replaced it with the wheel from a donor bike. They both had the same rear derailleur, so I swapped that, too. The frame is a bit too small for me, so I got a new longer seatpost. It has new cables and bar tape, new grease in all the bearings, (except the bottom bracket, which still spins like new). I used car polish, then car wax on the paint, aluminum polish on the stem and rims.

I have straight wall non-hooked rims, so they can't handle high pressure tires without the chance of blowing the bead off the rim. So I have 1 1/4 70-80 psi (32 mm equivalent) tires. With these tires and the steel frame, I can glide over a lot of manhole covers, small potholes, etc. At first, I have to remember to avoid those when I get back on my Orbea.





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You have a great bike, there. Like others have said, service it well, & do a good job of cleaning & waxing it. Be SURE NOT to damage it while cleaning & waxing. Once it is all finished & you start riding it,,, beware ! It will FLY with those skinny tubulars tires. Good brakes are a must !

THAT IS SUPERB!!! (shouting!) With very little work it will look like new - superb condition for the year. I wouldn't worry too much about tubular tyres - they seem to frighten a lot of people but provided you carry a spare they can be simple to swap on the roadside and I've only had one puncture using them on and off since 1971. Just roll off the deflated tyre - the glue on the rim should still be tacky (you can buy Tufo tape just in case it isn't), pump the replacement up slightly, stretch it around the rim and inflate fully. It helps if your spare is a used tyre though - they are easier to stretch onto the rim. Fixing the punctured tyre can be an evening's work once you get home though. but tubulars have a superb feel that you only get on the very best clinchers and the wheels are as light as really expensive clincher wheels.

Enjoy your classic bike.