I have been looking to get a new IGH bike for awhile, but the prices for new bike are quite high. I saw this bike on Craig's List and thought that it could be upgraded with an 8 speed hub.

I remember working on some older Raleigh bikes and discovering different thread sizes. Could I fit a new wheel set on this bike? Would I be able to find a replacement BB?

I figure that it would be a good idea to replace the brakes as well. That would cost about 4-500 instead of 800.

Link to the bike:

https://stlouis.craigslist.org/bik/1309394060.html

Wow... that's a really nice Raleigh for the money!

I'd ride it just like it is.


Greg

I thought the Sprites were modified Records which were Raleigh's lowest quality frame and that the derailleur on the Sprites did not work very well. That is why I thought about changing things. If everything works i probably will ride it as is for awhile, but would like to get an internal hub eventually.

My main concern is if the axles of a new wheel set will fit in the dropouts. I wonder if the bolt would be too thick. Does anyone have experience with this?

It would be a bit of trouble getting it set up....but of course could be done.

If the axle thickness is a problem, it won't be a major problem; file a little on the bottom of each dropout, and it'll be okay.

I can't tell the number of spokes; at some point in the 70's Raleigh changed from 32H front, 40H rear, to 36H both wheels; if this bike is from before that time, then you won't be able to find a 40H Nexus hub to use with that rim. But that's probably not a big deal; just get new aluminum rims, probably in 700c, and you'll be fine.

All in all, I don't see why it should be a problem to change this bike over to a nexus hub, and i'll make a nice bike.

Thanks for the info.

Do you think it would be worth it to do the conversion?

I am trying to save money over buying a new bike with an 8 speed internal hub. I would buy a new wheelset and put the old wheels aside. The front chainring seems large but I would have to try it out before changing.

If I spend the money on new wheels and upgrades to this bike then it would need to be my bike for awhile since I could not justify buying another bike after that. I am worried about being disappointed by the performance of the brakes and cranks vs having modern components on a new bike. It would also be nice if the cable routing clamps were brazed on but I could live with out that.

For some reason I suspect that putting a shimano internal gear hub on a Raleigh might cause the universe to implode.

Worth it? I can't say. But basically you're looking at the cost of the bike plus the cost of a wheelset. The bike is a good deal, so no worries there, and the wheelset is a great wheelset, and it costs what it costs, so no worries there either. If the bike turns out to be less than ideal, it's easy to put the original wheels back on it, sell it for $150, and try the new wheelset on a different bike. So... worth it or not worth it, it's not a waste of money.

If you're worried about the brakes, consider getting a Sturmey-Archer drum brake and dynamo combo hub for the front, and you will have excellent brakes and free electricity for aout $50. You can also put a Shimano roller brake on the rear, it's an excellent brake but it's heavy, it rattles, and it's a bit of a pain to take the wheel out of the drops. But no big deal; the standard Nexus hub accepts that brake, but you have to buy the brake seperately; so just add it later if you wish.

Chain ring: good question, you're on the right track but no worries (I think). The nexus hub is designed to work with a 2:1 ratio, chain ring to cog; so 38/19, 40/20, etc. The hub probably comes with a 19 and a 21, and your bike probably comes with a 46, so ideally you want a 23, which is not hard to find. And again, you don't need to do it right away. Wait until you have to order something else, and put the 23T cog in another order.

Threading. Yes, it's true, your Sprite will have 26 tpi Raleigh proprietary threading, so replacing the headset and BB will be tricky. But again, no worries; these things are built to last, and if properly maintained should last longer more or less for ever.

I had my '71 Raleigh International set up that way for awhile, and as far as I can tell, the universe didn't implode. However, I didn't like that setup very much and went back to a traditional geared bike (but with a mix of SunTour and Shimano mechs!).

Neal

+1 on the above. I put a Shimano 8 speed IGH in a 1973 Schwinn World Voyageur and was never that happy with it. I used mine for commuting to work and back in all weather. I found fixing a rear tire flat in the cold and in the dark, to be a MAJOR pain in the a**. The hub worked well but it always felt heavy and a but sluggish to me.

I have the Shimano Nexus 8 on my touring bike, which is an '82 Trek 720 frame that I've had since '83. I rode it 287 miles last weekend (74 Friday, 92 Saturday, 121 Sunday). It felt plenty zippy on Friday, and okay on Saturday, but on Sunday I must admit I had a hard time keeping up with the three roadies I fell in with between Lancaster and Morgantown, PA. They were keeping up an average of 17 mph and after 20 miles or so they managed to drop me. And I know it was the hub, no way the engine had anything to do with it!

I didn't realize that the BB had the 26 tpi as well. Even though the threads are different it is serviced the same way correct? Would the bearing cups be compatible with a replacement tapered axle so I could put new cranks on it? I would prefer not to have to find a cottered crank of the right size.

Did Raleigh use a different chain size?

I suppose I can re-tap any eyelets or use through bolts if I can not find bolts with the right thread count.

I am not too worried about the zippyness of the hub. I have ridden a nexus 3 speed for a long time and was happy with it. Even if it is a bit slower I would rather have that than a derailleur on my go to work bike.

Chain is standard. Eyelets won't be a problem, as you describe. Yes, I'm pretty sure you can find a square-taper BB spindle that'll work in the original Raleigh cups. But in all likelihood the existing crank is fine. Changing to a cotterless one will save you a small amount of weight, but not enough, in my opinion, to be worth it. The original Raleigh crank is nearly indestructible, attractive, and... well, it's original. Can't be beat!

I've got a shimano 3 speed on an old Sprite 27



the universe hasn't imploded, but I do occasionally notice small tears in the space-time continuum




then I just shift into 3rd and clickity click on outta there

Just stay away from Eddy's chesterfield.

I think I am going to go for it since I really do not have the cash for a new bike. In the spirit of keeping this frugal I think that I will put a 3 speed hub on it rather than the 8 speed. I will ride it for a couple years and then if I still want a new bike with an 8 speed hub I will consider getting one and use this one as a spare in case of a flat.

I can't seem to find a 27" 3 speed wheel online. I must be putting in the wrong search terms since I keep getting a 26" wheel from Niagara.

Velo-orange sell a new Sturmey Archer AW 3speed laced to s 36 hole Sun CR-18 rim for about $120. It is 700c.

I would go with an aw or and s5 on that raleigh it is a really sweet one

Thanks for all the input. Unfortunately I really cannot afford this bike plus the upgrades let alone a new bike so I had to pass and will keep on riding my hybrid that I bought years ago and put a bit of money into my bike fund. I will get one but just not today. Thanks again.

Shame that you missed it ,but,it was a nice useable bike and also I believe a lesson learned which is - If it aint broke --- dont fix it !

don't worry too much raleighs are super common

Price dropped to $50 and I ended up buying the bike. It is in great shape and everything seems original except for the rear brake pads. The ride is much better than my hybrid and I get a chain guard and fenders as a bonus. I decided to ride it as is until I have a major problem such as the derailleur slipping before considering a change to an internal hub.

I do plan to do a little preventative maintenance while I tune it up such as replacing the front brake pads and possibly some cables after I ride it around a bit more.

I wondered what grease I should use to repack the wheel bearings to make everything glide smoother. I have used automotive grease in the past but if a bike specific product works better I will use that.

I am usually on a budget and just grab replacement cables and pads from a big box retailer and then become disappointed as the parts do not perform. What affordable cables and pads do you recommend to use as replacements?

I have one other question. I am a tall rider and the front stem is a little short. I assume that it is a special size like everything else on the bike. I will check Velo Orange to see if the have taller stems.

I looked through old Raleigh catalogs but cannot seem to find the right date for this one.

Thanks for your help and I love the bike.

if budget's the way to go


https://cgi.ebay.com/ROAD-TOURING-BIC...634.m351.l1262



not as nice as a nitto, obviously, but WAY cheaper - I have one on my Sprite, no complaints at all - it isn't a highly finished piece by any means, but is functional and not too ugly or out of place on an older bike


I bought from that seller and it shipped the next day, took about 3 days total to arrive, so I totally recommend the seller

You are correct; Sprites were Record frames with commuter bars and low end components.

I think an IGH would be a great idea.

Nashbar.com or Performancebike.com have sales on their stuff all the time. Check there or lurk on eBay for brake and shift cables and housings.

By the looks of your handlebars I'd say you've got a mid to late 70's Sprite. Here's what my 1970-ish Sprite looked like: LINK

JJpistols,

Thanks for the link to the stem. I will probably order one since I do not want to order a stem that costs more than I paid for the bike.