Tubulars for regular riding?
#76
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most of them are not cut, just old and worn.
marty
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#77
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yeah, i've read the same articles. what doesn't exist anywhere that i've found though is a really comprehensive and illustrated (pictures) tubular repair guide covering sewing technique, basetape repair, etc. i also have a tire i could donate for the cause.
#78
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Cheap tubular tires suck...They are lumpy, difficult to mount and not worth it. Expensive sew ups are easy to mount and ride good.
I don't think it is appropriate to say that a 20$ sew up is going to ride better than a 20$ clincher. The cheap clincher tires are almost always straighter than cheap sew ups.
The Yellow Jersey 3 for 50$ is a not a good deal. Tread life is poor. Punctures occur frequently with the cheap Yellow jersey tires.
A good tubular tire is going to cost you 80-100$. I don't see any practical value in riding tubulars. You can get a comparable ride with an "Open tubular" design. The main advantage of tubular tires is the rim design. The lack of having a hook bead for the tire to latch on to makes the rim less likely to develop hops or flat spots.
A tubular rim can take a few nicks and dents and still spin true but a clincher will likely develop a hop or two. Sew ups are a nostalgia thing for the most part.
Those who like tubular tires are okay with timely puncture repairs. Some like tubulars because they can afford higher end tires. The greatest flaw in tubular tires is lack of good tire sizing. No tire over 23MM can be had for under 50$.
I also noticed that the basetape would start to peel easily. Stretching a tubular on a rim can be very difficult and damn near impossible. I had difficulty getting inexpensive sew up tires to mount without damaging the basetape. Side to side motions against the tape while trying to mount it can cause basetape separations.
I feel it is appropriate for restoration bikes or race bikes to ride sew ups. I see no practical merit in riding a tubular for daily use. Some argue that riding a sew up tire is more easy to repair on the road than a clincher.
I glue the hell out of my tires and it is never easy to remove the tire without breaking some glue with a tire iron. There should be no reason to glue a tire leaving some spots flat for easy removal. This is an invitation to disaster.
I'm no tubular expert but I can't feel the benefits of riding a sew up. I found that there is a better feel to the road with sew ups but it is probably subjective.
I don't think it is appropriate to say that a 20$ sew up is going to ride better than a 20$ clincher. The cheap clincher tires are almost always straighter than cheap sew ups.
The Yellow Jersey 3 for 50$ is a not a good deal. Tread life is poor. Punctures occur frequently with the cheap Yellow jersey tires.
A good tubular tire is going to cost you 80-100$. I don't see any practical value in riding tubulars. You can get a comparable ride with an "Open tubular" design. The main advantage of tubular tires is the rim design. The lack of having a hook bead for the tire to latch on to makes the rim less likely to develop hops or flat spots.
A tubular rim can take a few nicks and dents and still spin true but a clincher will likely develop a hop or two. Sew ups are a nostalgia thing for the most part.
Those who like tubular tires are okay with timely puncture repairs. Some like tubulars because they can afford higher end tires. The greatest flaw in tubular tires is lack of good tire sizing. No tire over 23MM can be had for under 50$.
I also noticed that the basetape would start to peel easily. Stretching a tubular on a rim can be very difficult and damn near impossible. I had difficulty getting inexpensive sew up tires to mount without damaging the basetape. Side to side motions against the tape while trying to mount it can cause basetape separations.
I feel it is appropriate for restoration bikes or race bikes to ride sew ups. I see no practical merit in riding a tubular for daily use. Some argue that riding a sew up tire is more easy to repair on the road than a clincher.
I glue the hell out of my tires and it is never easy to remove the tire without breaking some glue with a tire iron. There should be no reason to glue a tire leaving some spots flat for easy removal. This is an invitation to disaster.
I'm no tubular expert but I can't feel the benefits of riding a sew up. I found that there is a better feel to the road with sew ups but it is probably subjective.
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#80
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I heard that the worst, most unsafe tubular wheels are made with anodized gray, 32H Wolber Aspins with butted SS DT spokes and Maillard/Spidel 700 Professionel sealed bearing hubs. Send those to me pronto, if you guys ever spot them and I will personally kill them under my PSV!!!
Get me all the NOS you can find of them before they can multiply and kill more bikers.
Chombi
84 Peugeot PSV
Get me all the NOS you can find of them before they can multiply and kill more bikers.
Chombi
84 Peugeot PSV
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#82
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I found the tire alert price page. Hmm, maybe I should get into this business, too. I need as many sources of income as I can get.
#83
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I'm sure I have some hand-drawn pictures in my pile of old books - I'll have to scan some and post the pdfs. I like the hand-drawn ones better than photos, usually.
#84
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#85
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Did you see this one?
https://www.yellowjersey.org/tubfix.html
https://www.yellowjersey.org/tubfix.html
incidentally, i think it was your great write-up on folding a tubular that i use for my spares!
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#88
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I suck at sewing too, but I figure it's not really that critical as long as it holds.
Proof:
Here's the photo instruction on folding a spare: https://picasaweb.google.com/DiabloSc...gATubularTire#
#89
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3) Nobody wants tubulars, so there seem to be good deals out there. Darn it all, when I was looking for wheels to do the 700c conversion on my LeTour, I was all set to go with clincher rims. But what did I find on CL but a 1980 wheelset with nice tubular rims (an Araya and a Mavic) on Campy Record hubs, for $20. Now how do you say no to that!?!? Then a friend gave me several NOS (but still good) tubulars he had no use for.
I know #3 sounds random, but my point is: even if you're a cheapskate like me, fate can conspire to keep you on tubulars!
I know #3 sounds random, but my point is: even if you're a cheapskate like me, fate can conspire to keep you on tubulars!
I'm really loving the discussion here and learning a lot - thanks all!
#90
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#91
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To be safe, you ought to mount a Regina freewheel on the rear before cutting the spokes. That's how I plan to do it.
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https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...productId=5024
These look promising as I really like their clinchers.
These look promising as I really like their clinchers.
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#96
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There you go!
OT (I switched the 6 speed Regina freewheel you sent me to 5 speeds using small cogs from a Simplex body. I need to locate or buy a removal tool before I mount and ride it. Thanks Kurt.)
OT (I switched the 6 speed Regina freewheel you sent me to 5 speeds using small cogs from a Simplex body. I need to locate or buy a removal tool before I mount and ride it. Thanks Kurt.)
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I just stumbled on something that worked well to find a leak - I inflated some old tubulars and scrubbed them with a dish-soapy scrub brush - I was just cleaning some dirty old tires - and the soapy coating started bubbling up in a spot where there was a tiny, silent leak.
#99
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ok, I fixed it. damned spell check thought it was right.
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#100
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I suck at sewing too, but I figure it's not really that critical as long as it holds.
Proof:
Here's the photo instruction on folding a spare: https://picasaweb.google.com/DiabloSc...gATubularTire#
Proof:
Here's the photo instruction on folding a spare: https://picasaweb.google.com/DiabloSc...gATubularTire#