Finally did it!!! (Seatpost, that is)
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 428
Likes: 24
From: Dryden, NY
Bikes: 1970 Schwinn Paramount P-15, 2013 Trek Stache 7, 2018 Fuji Jari 1.3, 2018 Diamondback El Oso Dos, 197* Charles Roberts
Finally did it!!! (Seatpost, that is)
So after about five years of trying and failing I finally got the seatpost out of my 1970 Paramount!!!! To tell the truth I had given up about 2 years ago and settled with a monstrous cushioned spring seat to make the height bearable for me, and it actually did feel great. Then my wife got sick of the stock saddle on the Raleigh Capri I got her earlier this year and wanted mine, so after two days with the new seat too low I decided to do something about it today. I fed it WD-40 and pounded it with a hammer(gently of course) and no budging. So I put it in the hallway and kept giving it the WD-40 and subjected it to random acts of brute force, hehe. Every once in a while while I was walking past it I would "jump it" out if the blue and twist like hell, and about a half hour ago the beer muscles kicked in and it gave!!!!!!!! Now I have two questions...
1) What is the best way to treat the inside of the frame to get the remaining rust out?
2) Should I use the old Campy seatpost again or get a new one to avoid this problem in the future?
Bear in mind that I am not worried about keeping everything original on the bike, this winter is going to see a remarkable facelift and parts upgrade for it because it has found its last owner, well not its last hopefully because I hope with what I do to it that it may see even the next century. Your answers to these questions would be greatly appreciated!
1) What is the best way to treat the inside of the frame to get the remaining rust out?
2) Should I use the old Campy seatpost again or get a new one to avoid this problem in the future?
Bear in mind that I am not worried about keeping everything original on the bike, this winter is going to see a remarkable facelift and parts upgrade for it because it has found its last owner, well not its last hopefully because I hope with what I do to it that it may see even the next century. Your answers to these questions would be greatly appreciated!
#2
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 428
Likes: 24
From: Dryden, NY
Bikes: 1970 Schwinn Paramount P-15, 2013 Trek Stache 7, 2018 Fuji Jari 1.3, 2018 Diamondback El Oso Dos, 197* Charles Roberts
Pics
Heres the pics, and like I said above I am not worried about keeping it original so tell me what you think...
By the way I already hit the seatpost with some steel wool before I took the pics so this is the best it will get...
By the way I already hit the seatpost with some steel wool before I took the pics so this is the best it will get...
Last edited by jish1969; 10-09-09 at 09:47 PM.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 1
Get a brush from a pet store that has aquarium stuff, they use the for filter tubes.
It needn't be all that strong. other more sever meas, can be taken but try any old brush to do it. A parts store sell drill brushes, 1 inch should do, try plastic first.
Get a peice of Krokus cloth for the post, it feels like regular cloth in texture. Akin to Emery Cloth, it's much finer. E. cloth, really fine works too. Krokus is better, I've used it for engine building for years. It feels like the sheets you sleep on, it cuts though. 1 sheet's plenty.
I realize your in a rush even though it's been so long already but do it right .
It needn't be all that strong. other more sever meas, can be taken but try any old brush to do it. A parts store sell drill brushes, 1 inch should do, try plastic first.
Get a peice of Krokus cloth for the post, it feels like regular cloth in texture. Akin to Emery Cloth, it's much finer. E. cloth, really fine works too. Krokus is better, I've used it for engine building for years. It feels like the sheets you sleep on, it cuts though. 1 sheet's plenty.
I realize your in a rush even though it's been so long already but do it right .
#4
juneeaa memba!


Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,631
Likes: 5
From: boogled up in...Idaho!
Bikes: Crap. The box is not big enough...
If there is no "sand" in the frame use linseed oil or weigle frame saver. pour it in, swish it around, and pour the excess out. Try to get it into all of the tubes. let it dry. If there is appreciable loose material in the frame you should clean it out and see if you have any weak spots (you should be able to hear 'em by tapping lightly on the tubes, and if there are any you'll know). If the answer is "none" then you are good to go. Sand the post, steel wool the post, 0000steel wool the post, if you really like it bright use progressive stages of wet/dry sand paper, like down to 1600 or 2000 grit, and then polish (mothers, neverdull, or similar). There really isn't anything that I can see that is wrong with the post, and they're kind of pricey...
#5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 428
Likes: 24
From: Dryden, NY
Bikes: 1970 Schwinn Paramount P-15, 2013 Trek Stache 7, 2018 Fuji Jari 1.3, 2018 Diamondback El Oso Dos, 197* Charles Roberts
No rush here, this baby is gettin' done right this winter! Thanks for the advice! What do you you think about the seatpost?
#8
Note: should remove the BB if you plan on cleaning the seat tube and or coating it.
Use a long handled bottle brush (they make them in 24" lengths) and that should help clean up the seat tube. Any rust converter from an auto parts store can neutralize any rust you missed or use any marine grease or framesaver if you feel the seat tube is clean enough. EZ way to evenly apply is to use a long wood stick/rod, thumbtack some paper towels to it and spray/apply on the paper towel with product and coat the seat tube with a screwing motion. I would polish the seatpost if you have access to a buffer (bench or hand-held). Grease or anti-seize the post and no worries the next time you need to remove the post.
Use a long handled bottle brush (they make them in 24" lengths) and that should help clean up the seat tube. Any rust converter from an auto parts store can neutralize any rust you missed or use any marine grease or framesaver if you feel the seat tube is clean enough. EZ way to evenly apply is to use a long wood stick/rod, thumbtack some paper towels to it and spray/apply on the paper towel with product and coat the seat tube with a screwing motion. I would polish the seatpost if you have access to a buffer (bench or hand-held). Grease or anti-seize the post and no worries the next time you need to remove the post.
#9
Get a brake cylinder hone and a cordless drill to smooth out the inside of the seat tube. Works wonders.
__________________
"Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, it’s the triumphant twang of a bedspring."
S. J. Perelman
"Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, it’s the triumphant twang of a bedspring."
S. J. Perelman
#10
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 428
Likes: 24
From: Dryden, NY
Bikes: 1970 Schwinn Paramount P-15, 2013 Trek Stache 7, 2018 Fuji Jari 1.3, 2018 Diamondback El Oso Dos, 197* Charles Roberts
OK, I just finished taking apart the seatpost and hit it with a heavy steel wool and then a fine one and its looking good, so I definitely wanna keep it, and thank you for all your input on taking care of the frame I am gonna hit that up tomorrow. God I love Paramounts...
#12
Get a brake cylinder hone and a cordless drill to smooth out the inside of the seat tube. Works wonders.


can't think of a better way to ruin a frame 
Joke's on anyone that does this
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 650
Likes: 0
From: Middle TN
Bikes: 2 Centurian Ironman, Rossin Genisis, Greenspeed GT3, Stowaway (wife)
I recently disassembled an 83 bike that alll of the components had been properly greased when assembled 25 years ago. This bike had been poorly stored in a shed and was in very poor condition. It all came apart with no trouble. Seat post just slid right out. Pedals came loose quite easy. It was like taking a brand new bike apart except for the years of dirt accumulation. Use anti sieze or grease on all components and threads upon assembly and you will smile years later when you need to disassemble.
#14
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,619
Likes: 187
From: Frankfurt, Germany
Bikes: Focus trash find commuter, Eddy Merckx Corsa, BP Stealth TT bike, Leader 720 TT bike, Boardman Comp Hybrid drop bar conversion, Quantec CX budget cyclocross build, SerottaNOS frameset ready to build up!
Jish, feel free to come round and get the alloy tube out of my steel Peugeot whenever you have time.
#15
www.theheadbadge.com



Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 29,025
Likes: 5,537
From: Southern Florida
Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com
#16
Bianchi Goddess



Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 28,962
Likes: 4,229
From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
at some of the shops I worked in we had a seattube reamer (three cutters) and type of flex hone that worked wonders. it was an odd kind of bottle brush looking nthing but had about 1/4 grit or pumice balls at the ends of the bristles. it was somewhat mandatory to always use that a new frame.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#17
SE Wis

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,555
Likes: 4,332
From: Milwaukee, WI
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
slit the end of a wood dowel and stick some emery cloth in it so the grit is out and chuck it in a drill. Works like a flapper sander and can go as deep as you need for about a buck.






