You bet it will! When I said "mask the surrounding area" I mean, mask all of it, right up to about 1 mm from the new paint. As you sand, you will sand away your plastic mask; as soon as that happens, take it all off, rinse and dry and assess the situation. Repeat as necessary. You want to sand away some of your new paint, and preferably none of your original paint.

aha! Very good sir!

I have a feeling I'll probably build it 99% of the way this week, run the brake line friday, ride it a few weeks until the paint is fully cured and then go at it with your solution.

I can't imagine wet sanding would go very well with only 4 days cure on that paint.

You don't think riding it for a bit before doing that sanding work will hurt do you? Can ya tell i'm excited?

I'm not nearly as sweaty as the person who owned this before me...talk about rode hard and put away wet...:lol:

I imagine it will. Where the cable housing touches the new paint, it will probably leave a mark, maybe just a dent, that will be visible whenever the cable housing isn't there. I wouldn't worry about it.

Attachment 148484

I worked without distraction last night and managed to get all the brake and shifter housing cut, lines run, Derailleur cables are adjusted, Freewheel is on, crankset is put together and on...

All thats left is to true up the wheels and put the tires on and adjust the brakes tonight then throw the chain and a saddle on and its time to Ride!

Will you let me test ride it? :D

Looks great! I have the feeling you're going to like this bike. Paint touch-up can wait and in my experience, if you wait long enough you start to care less and less;)

I was hoping you'd be the guinea pig.... its rolling on YOUR wheels ;) :lol: :D


Seriously though...of course :)



Ioqegian, I think you are right....just having the cables all installed makes me too excited to ride it to give a damn about the touch up.
and I'm really liking the Yellow.

I can't wait!

Bicycling Review of the Team Miyata (1982)
 

I thought you'd enjoy this:

Attachment 148567 Attachment 148568

If you like the way it rides, and it is your true size, then it probably is worth restoring to the bike's original grandeur.

Nice review. Makes me even more excited in my anticipation.

I better do some leg presses to build my strength up and test the stiffness of the bike.

:lol: You Break it, you Bought it!


..wait thats no good...

You break it, I'll have to build it up with better components! ;) :D

Cool article.

**edit**

just finished reading that article and according to the author this frame is about as stiff as stiff could be, and was going for 1,300 clams fully equipped. at least 1/13th of that price representing the Stem :lol:

I do agree though that if I really fall in love with this bike I'll most likely get the cable guide fixed by a pro...its just such a hard choice to make because it would involve ruining so much of the mostly decent original paint..whatever, i'm not gonna worry about that until the winter at the earliest and even that is getting ahead of myself.

Look, if you find that you love the bike, it's worth the money to get it redone properly and completely. If it's love, then it's not just an economic decision. You can have it repaired repainted so it's even better than it was when it was new. Love has no dollar amount associated with it (or it shouldn't).

When I bought my 3Rensho in 1984, one of the bikes I tried out during my search was the Team Miyata. Laughing Alley Bicycle in Allston, MA, carried the line, and I gave it a ride. The review is spot-on.

Cool.

Unfortunately the test ride is gonna have to wait another week at least. I went to true up the wheels and the nipples all disintegrated as soon as I put the spoke wrench to em. I dont know whats up with that but it looks like I don't have much choice but to cut the spokes out and start from scratch....ahh the joys of C&V

^Bummer.

Try to get them nipples off. If you can get a few of them off, the rest will be easier. Remember you can use a flat screw driver from the tire side. I don't like cutting spokes!

Yeah its a bummer, and unfortunately the spokes look like there were a tad long to begin with so the spoke end is sticking out past the nipple on most of em making it basically impossible to get a screwdriver in there. I hate cutting em too, but at least I've got a decent tool to do it. I dont know what it's supposed to be for but it looks like it came out of a Soviet Tank Mechanic's toolbox.

Its for the better anyhow. The wheel set is fairly high-end. Mavic Open 4CD rims and Dura-Ace hubs, but the spokes are straight gauge. It gives me an opportunity to rebuild them with nice Double Butted spokes. I ordered a pack of DT Swiss Competition spokes last night; should be here next week.

What causes a nipple to simply disintegrate like that? Is the the (aluminum) Alloy Nipple in contact with Stainless Steel? (the rim has Stainless Eyelets) Doesn't the dissimilar metals cause something to happen where they like fuse together or something?....obviously I'm not well educated in metallurgy.

Whatever the case, in the interest of durability and because I don't particularly care much about weight I'm gonna use Brass nipples when I rebuild these.

Wait. You could get the nipples off with a vice grip. That way, you could save the spokes.

I do like the idea of double butted spokes. They are expen$ive, but I like them a lot. They take more work to build up, too, but they could be worth it.

If they are aluminum nipples, good riddance. I didn't notice. You say they disintegrated, as in shattered? You're not saying they rounded off, are you? If so, your spoke wrench doesn't fit.

Brass is the only material I like for spoke nipples. It has lower friction than steel and doesn't bond or rust. Aluminum is just dumb.

Yeah A vice grip will just make it easier to destroy the nipples i think. I mean disintegrated like I slide my spoke wrench on the nipple (its the correct size) and the nipple just crumbles like a cookie as I turn the wrench...no rounding off just a complete fall-apart mess. Shattered would describe it well. I can't imagine they are anything other than aluminum...Brass nipples round off like you said, not shatter. The spokes aren't salvageable unfortunately because the threads are all fouled up with the remains of the nipples.

I used DB spokes on my first wheel build thats on my Super Course now, and they weren't awful to work with (especially since I'd never worked with anything else at that point). I got a box of 100 that come with nipples included for $57 at eBikestop...i'm just excited to ride it and was bummed last night when it happened 'cause I knew right away it meant I wouldn't be riding it for at least another week. Worked out well though....I just got paid yesterday so I could afford the spokes.

I worked with many types of spokes, and when DT spokes came out, they were really amazing. I really appreciate how good they are, compared to their predecessors. I understand Wheelsmith spokes are just as good. I don't think I've worked with them yet.

I've only worked with Wheelsmith spokes so far and without a real basis for comparison all I can say is that They got the job done and they've held up well. This will be my first time with DT but just as you said, i've heard nothing but good things.

The wheelsmith spokes cost a bit more, but I don't necessarily associate that with better quality.

Contact this guy at lkspoke@yahoo.com. He has top quality (DT or Wheelsmith), custom cut, at the best prices.

I considered him last night, and actually He's in my favorite sellers list but I wanted Double butted spokes, and I already placed my order last night.. Figured since the rims and hubs are nice I might as well use high quality spokes.

Well, there ya go.

Here I go.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_C_ZmRsQylO0/S-...4/img_1349.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_C_ZmRsQylO0/S-...0/img_1359.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_C_ZmRsQylO0/S-...4/img_1354.jpg


I rebuilt the wheels with DT swiss spokes and brass nipples. decided to try 2 cross lacing on the front just for kicks (and not because the spokes came up a little short when I did it 3 cross :innocent: ) I think it looks good even though i did screw up the location of the valve stem by 1 spoke

I had it out for about 20 minutes before it got dark and so far....:love:

it rolls smooth, especially with the vittoria Open Corsa tires running at 120psi... the review is dead on. It maneuvers quickly with very little steering input, accelerates like a shot no matter what gear you're in, and it makes a 20mph cruising speed on flat land a breeze. And it is Stiff. still manages to track well on crappy pavement though.

I'm gonna ride it to work tomorrow and get some better pics in the daylight and put the bar wrap on as well.

Right off the bat I can say that the Superbe RD is OK but I dont think its gonna work out long term. The top of the cage gets way too close to the sprockets...like it could deal with another few mm of length on the Derailleur hanger. The 13-25 freewheel isn't helping matters either, i know the Superbe is only rated for a max of 23 teeth and they really are not kidding about that rating. I may have to move over to something with a GT cage to make this work.

For now it does work but gear changes arent what they should be. Also I think I've got a beat up set of Barcons (ebay purchase) because they aren't really as smooth as I would have hoped. Can those be rebuilt?

First impressions though are that it fits perfectly and is a great ride. Good enough that I can see myself tearing it all back down over the winter and doing a proper restoration to it, quite possibly paint and a trip to the frame builders shop as well to have the cable guide fixed. But thats all a ways away....I've got some riding to do :D

Rivendell sells "Silver" bar ends.


http://www.rivbike.com/images/produc...7/17-089-1.jpg

Glad to hear it's starting to come together. Sounds like love at first ride.

I'm pretty familiar with those bar end shifters. I have a pair on my McLean. We could take yours and mine apart and compare. If some parts of yours are worn, I don't think you can get replacements. But if we discover that it needs to be reassembled differently or correctly or something, won't that be good news?