I'm changing my downtube shifters to bar ends on my specialized and I just happened to notice that the other examples I saw online did not have the cable routed under the full length of the bar wrap. Would there be a problem with doing it this way or will it cause shifting problems? The pictures I've seen thus far have the cable exiting the wrap just before the bend.

The general rule with cable routing is to make it as direct as possible, with the largest-radius bends possible. Routing it the way you're suggesting violates both these goals, but I have seen it done that way. It's not ideal, but it will probably work.

Lots of people around here point to the fact that modern lined cable is much better quality. Routing the cable under the entire length of tape should not be major issue, I have seen a whole lot of bikes set up that way.

I personally like the cables exiting at the bottom of the drops for the look of it. I don't see it as a choice based on performance.

[QUOTE=mkeller234;9838975]Lots of people around here point to the fact that modern lined cable is much better quality. Routing the cable under the entire length of tape should not be major issue, I have seen a whole lot of bikes set up that way.QUOTE]

When I was doing my rebuild, I fully intended to route the cable completely under the wrap, but I found that my cables weren't long enough to allow it and still reach the rear derailler. You have the option of ordering "Tandem length cabling" and doing it that way, but I went with the standard routing just because I was anxious to get the bike together and ride it.

CMC

it is easier and will shift better to do it the traditional way. when I get one of my frames painted this winter I am going to run the brake cable non areo too so they kind of match.

On the only two I've done, I exited the cable just under the brake lever, in about the same place an STI cable would be. It looked good, the tension of the housing/cable made a nice arc to the DT cable stops, and performance was fine.

I've only seen one that routed "all the way aero," and while it looked really clean, the owner told me he'd recommend it on friction and 6-sp rears, but not higher. He had 3 tourers, all with bar end shifters. Given his collection, I assume he knew of what he bespoke.

I wrap them all the way. I have it on an old Bianchi mountain bike with a 9sp cassette with Suntour bar ends. It works beautifully. No problems what so ever. I can't tell a difference between doing it that way or with down tube shifters. There is a little more friction, but I can't tell in use. I do it this way, because I like the looks of it better than when the cables exit before the bend.

Robbie, good to hear that piece of advice. I'm planning it on my six speed. I think I'll forge ahead with the cables under the wraps. I did order tandem length cables as it was recommended for my largish frame.

Why not electrical tape the cables in place and try it on the work stand before you wrap it?
bill the motorcycle mechanic

This thread needs pictures

I run my cables under the tape on an 8 speed friction system and the shifting is excellent... I did need a tandem length cable for the rear and keep these in stock as my long bike also requires this extra cable length.

I like the Suntour barcons as they are so easy to service and once set up you can forget about ever having to make an adjustment.

I read the threads before installing my 9 speed bar ends as I thought I had to have the cables run up with the brake cables for a cleaner look. I didn't want to test it so I just went the old fashioned way. It works for me.

Anyone have any info on Concord road bikes? I picked up a beautiful copper Gran Fury today, but google does turn up anything. Any info would be great, Thank you.