Uniglide to Hyperglide conversion
#1
Uniglide to Hyperglide conversion
I posted this on the Mech Forum, but I've always had good luck on this one. (Stupid Newbies, while they never learn?) Bought a wheelset that was said to be a Shimano 8/9 speed. When I got it, I tried to put my 8spd Hyperglide cassette on it with no luck. The freehub has uniform grooves all around. I'm assuming that this is a uniglide hub. Is it easier and cheaper to just buy a new Uniglide cassette, or can I replace the Uniglide freehub with a Hyperglide one?
#2
I'm sorry! I need to restart this post. Ignorance combined with unfounded assumptions is the mother of disasters. Case in point, I just tried to put a 7spd Uniglide cassette on this freehub. It didn't fit either. Can anyone identify this freehub?
#4
Open/close is just the quick release.(Wrong open close) If it is a DA hub it is (or should be) Both HG and UG compatible.
What exactly isn't fitting when you try to put on either cassettes? The 7sp would need a spacer to work correctly. 8sp should work, I have the same hub with Sram 8sp HG cassette mounted sitting right in front of me.
What exactly isn't fitting when you try to put on either cassettes? The 7sp would need a spacer to work correctly. 8sp should work, I have the same hub with Sram 8sp HG cassette mounted sitting right in front of me.
Last edited by yellowjeep; 11-02-09 at 02:37 AM.
#6
Why would there be an open and close on the hub seal for the quick release? I just read that Dura Ace had to diameter hubs at this time. That You Shimano for making it easy! Should be both, I agree. Better minds will enter here soon, I hope.
#7
My bad. The QR has open close on it also, but looking closer the seals do indeed say open and this is to remove the seal. The 35mm dia. hubs are 7800 series, not these.
Uniglide and Hyperglide have the same ID. The only differences are the teeth and how it is affixed to to the hub. HG use a lock ring and UG uses a threaded cog. The hub you have is compatible with both. I know this because I have two sets of this exact hub.
Last edited by yellowjeep; 11-02-09 at 02:46 AM.
#8
Your right. I'm starting to loose my mind here on this bike. I spun the 7spd Uniglide around until it hit the narrow slot that I hadn't noticed before and it fit. But, the 8spd cassette I have has a wide flat groove on it that wont allow it to slide on this hub. I'm very relieved that at least I have a 7spd on there now. Is there any problem with it working with an 8spd STI shifter?
#9
The 8sp will fit. Look at the inside of the 8sp cassette there is 1 narrow grove, now look at your hub body there is a corresponding narrow tooth.
You can see the narrow tooth on the bottom of the picture I posted, as long as you have an 8sp or 9sp or even 10sp aslong as its not Dura Ace, Shimano compatible cassette it will work.
You can see the narrow tooth on the bottom of the picture I posted, as long as you have an 8sp or 9sp or even 10sp aslong as its not Dura Ace, Shimano compatible cassette it will work.
Last edited by yellowjeep; 11-02-09 at 02:54 AM.
#10
I'm very sorry for annoying this post with my ignorance. I bought a cassette that appears to not be what it was supposed to be. The 7spd Uniglide worked after I calmed down and found the narrow slot. I have no idea what this flat spot in this 8spd cog is for?
#11
The narrow slot I mentioned is right next to the wide tab.
Each sprocket has the tab to make the cassette line up correctly. The way the teeth designed in such away to aide is shifting. If you notice some look worn but this is done on purpose to make shifting smooth and this only works if they are oriented properly, hence the wide tab and narrower tooth.
You said you have a 7sp Ug on there, look at the hub face on and you should still be able to see the teeth on the FH body. Notice that there is a one tooth that is narrower than the others with a a wider slot to one side of it.
Each sprocket has the tab to make the cassette line up correctly. The way the teeth designed in such away to aide is shifting. If you notice some look worn but this is done on purpose to make shifting smooth and this only works if they are oriented properly, hence the wide tab and narrower tooth.
You said you have a 7sp Ug on there, look at the hub face on and you should still be able to see the teeth on the FH body. Notice that there is a one tooth that is narrower than the others with a a wider slot to one side of it.
Last edited by yellowjeep; 11-02-09 at 03:23 AM.
#13
Holy Cr*a*p, this is embarrassing. It worked. Thank you for talking me through it. I hope the powers-to-be have the good sense to delete this post. Or, at least my name from it. Have a good night.
#14
#15
Just for the record, this is the wheelset that I was obsessing over. I had just received the Veloflexs and the put them on the wheels and was a very happy camper until I tried to put on the cassette. You people are awesome! I love this Forum.
#16
You're in luck with the Uni/Hyp cross compatible freehub. Those of us w/Uni only DA are just out of luck. The transplant bodies dissappeared a couple of years ago.
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72 Frejus (for sale), Holdsworth Record (for sale), special CNC & Gitane Interclub / 74 Italvega NR (for sale) / c80 French / 82 Raleigh Intl MkII f&f (for sale)/ 83 Trek 620 (for sale)/ 84 Bruce Gordon Chinook (for sale)/ 85 Ron Cooper / 87 Centurion IM MV (for sale) / 03 Casati Dardo / 08 BF IRO / 09 Dogma FPX / 09 Giant TCX0 / 10 Vassago Fisticuff
Last edited by Ex Pres; 11-02-09 at 08:29 AM.
#17
A few things to take note off:
COGS:
Unigide (UG) Evenly spaced grooves and tabs on the cog. Sharp edge should be installe 'in' but they be flipped over and installed sharp edge out.
Hyperglide (HG): Same groove and tab construction as unglide except for 1 tap thats wider the others. 'HG' cogs also have contoured teeth and 'reliefs' cut into the face of the cog. Stamped lettering faces out.
InterGlide (IG): Same as HG with the addition of 'reliefs' on the back side of the cog as well as the front. Stamped lettering faces out.
HUBS:
Uniglide (UG) hubs have and externaly threaded freehub body. If a cog can screw onto it its UG compatible. HG/IG cogs can be used if the wide HG/IG tab is ground down narrow. A UG cog is still needed to hold everything in place.
Hyperglide (HG) and Interglide (IG) have thread inside the freehub by the axle. Unglide cogs will work on thses hubs but they need to be held in place with a HG/IG lock ring which may require the need for a HG/IG high gear cog.
Hybrid hubs: Have both the external threading and inside threading. All UG, HG and IG cassettes will work on these hubs.
COGS:
Unigide (UG) Evenly spaced grooves and tabs on the cog. Sharp edge should be installe 'in' but they be flipped over and installed sharp edge out.
Hyperglide (HG): Same groove and tab construction as unglide except for 1 tap thats wider the others. 'HG' cogs also have contoured teeth and 'reliefs' cut into the face of the cog. Stamped lettering faces out.
InterGlide (IG): Same as HG with the addition of 'reliefs' on the back side of the cog as well as the front. Stamped lettering faces out.
HUBS:
Uniglide (UG) hubs have and externaly threaded freehub body. If a cog can screw onto it its UG compatible. HG/IG cogs can be used if the wide HG/IG tab is ground down narrow. A UG cog is still needed to hold everything in place.
Hyperglide (HG) and Interglide (IG) have thread inside the freehub by the axle. Unglide cogs will work on thses hubs but they need to be held in place with a HG/IG lock ring which may require the need for a HG/IG high gear cog.
Hybrid hubs: Have both the external threading and inside threading. All UG, HG and IG cassettes will work on these hubs.









