kbjack

I was wiping down my Raleigh Pro track and noticed a bit of clear coat peeling away from the chrome head lugs (it had been resprayed by the original owner some years ago, reputedly by Brian Baylis).

So, in a fit of OCD I figured I'd just carefully remove it from the lugs only (you can probably see where this is going--the path to hell is paved with figurations like these). But as luck (and stupidity) would have it, the clear coat got away from me and started peeling down the head tube as well.

Now, 24hrs and two throbbing thumbnails later, I've got most of the clear off of the head tube. There are just a couple of places where it looks like the clear was able to bind better (the way it should've originally I assume) to the paint and doesn't want to pry loose.

My question is this: is there any way to remove these bits of clear without damaging the underlying paint? Like I said, I managed to get most of it off with nothing but my thumbnails (not recommended). But this last stuff is stuck good.

Doing some quick searches, it doesn't look hopeful (clear coat conversations seem to come up regularly on car forums, with the inevitable definitive answer: SAND IT AND REPAINT IT! THERE AIN'T NO OTHER WAY, DOOD!). I'm just hoping others have had an experience like this and found a better answer; more specifically, a better tool to remove the clear.

Edit: Pics! Not all that clear, but if you look at the base of the head tube you can see where these "islands" of clear coat remain:

kbjack

A little bump. Anyone?

Mike Mills

Sand it and repaint it! There ain't no other way, dood!

NormanF

Have it sand blasted and powder-coated. The frame should last a lifetime.

Sci-Fi

Well...technically you could wet sand the clear off to the base coat. It's only a few mils thick so don't over do it. Last thing you want is to also sand off the base coat to the primer. I would buy some Prepsol and wipe the frame down first to remove any contaminants (oil and silicones). Can also use a claybar to remove any brake/industrial dust embedded in the paint. Then wet sand and prepsol the frame again before spraying on clear (the automotive clear, not a rattle can). Spray 5 coats of clear if you plan on leveling the paint/clear.

For the clear to peel like that, either the surface wasn't prepped/sanded properly for good adhesion or the clear has already been burned off by the sun/uv exposure or sprayed on too thin/not enough coats.

If you don't want/feel like doing the labor, then removing the paint/sand blasting (with the proper media) and repainting or powdercoating is your alternative.

Steve530

I'm no paint expert, but I have polished my car a few times. That gives me some experience with this stuff, but not peeling clear coat. Hopefully someone will post with experience with specific information on this problem.

I think the general plan should be to start with the least abrasive method first, then more to progressively more abrasive methods until you remove the clear coat to a good edge (like a lug) or you're able to feather the clear coat to where the clear coat is adhering well.

So I'd probably start with a clay bar. I that doesn't remove the residual clear coat, I'd move to 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper. I probably wouldn;t go below 1000 grit wet/dry paper. If you need to sand, remember to soak the sandpaper for while (hours) in water and a drop of dishwashing detergent. Use lots of water and a light touch when sanding.

After you've leveled the problem, I'd wet sand again with 2000 paper before masking it off and re-spraying. Note that rattle cans of clear coat might sugggest that you sand with 600 grit paper to roughen the surface for the clear coat. This will definitely leave a dull surface, but the clear is supposed to add the shine you want. I'm not sure what to tell you there, I've never sprayed clear coat.

Of course, you could just remove the clear coat, polish the base and give it a coat of wax.

kbjack

This is what I'd originally hoped to do (well, except for the last part; seems hardware stores no longer carry "cats of wax"...I called them all asking about it...too bad, it was a great product).

But more and more it sounds like I might have to go the DOOD!-rout. There's a good repainter in the area who I'd trust more than myself with a job like this. I'll give him a call and see what he says.

Steve530

Sorry about the "cat of wax" , I've fixed that. Also I apologize to any cat-lovers I may have offended.

I'd bet the repainter can handle this easily.

umpire54

Man I hate it when that happens.

Mike Mills

If the clear coat is peeling off there's something wrong (contamination, too long between coats,...). It should be fully adhered to the base coat. I think this means it NEEDS to come off. You can get it resprayed after lightly sanding down (not off) the base coat to promote adhesion.