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Raleigh or Italvega + conversion options?

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Old 11-12-09 | 12:26 PM
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Raleigh or Italvega + conversion options?

Hey all,

I've found two road bikes that I am considering buying to replace my low-end + rusty Columbia.

One is an Italvega Gran Rally w/ Campy parts: https://bit.ly/EIgrA
The other is a Raleigh Grand Prix w/ 3 piece crank set, Weinman brakes and Mailard wheels: https://bit.ly/1YR2uO

I do plan to remove the shifters and gears to convert to a single speed. With either of these bikes, would simply buying a new hub do the trick?
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Old 11-12-09 | 01:01 PM
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Bikes: Cinelli, Paramount, Raleigh, Carlton, Zeus, Gemniani, Frejus, Legnano, Pinarello, Falcon

I'd go with the Italvega. Why a new hub? Buy a single speed freewheel, replace the freewheel, take off the deraillers, get some shorter, single chainring bolts and remove the outer ring.

Keep the brakes.
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Old 11-12-09 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dbakl
I'd go with the Italvega. Why a new hub? Buy a single speed freewheel, replace the freewheel, take off the deraillers, get some shorter, single chainring bolts and remove the outer ring.

Keep the brakes.
+1. The Raleigh is way overpriced.
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Old 11-12-09 | 01:19 PM
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Italvega (and this from someone who has six Raleighs sitting about)
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Old 11-12-09 | 01:28 PM
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Bikes: Colnago Super, Fuji Opus III, Specialized Rockhopper, Specialized Sirrus (road)

You could make a few hundred bucks selling the parts on the Italvega. They are selling it for a steal.
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Old 11-12-09 | 02:13 PM
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Thanks for the advice, mates. I am going to check it out this afternoon.

I will likely be back to get some tips on what specific parts i'll need to convert it. Very excited!

Any tips on how to do a quick assessment for structural damage before I hand over the cash?
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Old 11-12-09 | 02:32 PM
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Bikes: 2002 Bianchi Vigorelli, 2002 S-works CX, 1973 Raleigh Super Course conversion, 1979 Raleigh Competition, 1973 Raleigh Professional Track, 1980 Austro Daimler Inter-10

Looks to be in good shape. A few things you should check for: any "wrinkling" in the tubes or stress marks in the paint just behind the head lugs--this can indicate front end damage; fork alignment (make sure the fork tracks with the head tube); dents and dings--these usually affect the value more than the integrity of the frame.

Also, if you're feeling extra OCD, bring some allen or box wrenches (depending on what kind of seat binder bolt it has) and check to make sure both the seat post and the stem can be removed/adjusted easily. If the thing has been outside for part or all of its life these will tend to bind up (this doesn't look to be the case based on photos). If they do stick, it's not necessarily a deal-killer. A little (or a lot of) work and you should be able to remove them, but it can be a good way to talk the seller down on price--you have to put extra labor into getting the bike in shape and sellers should be willing to make a price reduction based on this fact.
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Old 11-12-09 | 08:35 PM
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Update: Got the bike. Man, it's a beaut. And it's tons lighter than my Columbia. Excited to break it in.

Already considering upgrading:
- The funky handlebar padding with some nice grip.
- Moving the handlebar brakes to the middle of the bar (I never ride fully forward)
- Single-speed conversion
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