Trek 613 Bottom Bracket Specs?
#1
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From: Valparaiso, IN
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Trek 613 Bottom Bracket Specs?
Hello,
Does anyone have the specs for a 1982 Trek 613 bottom bracket? I'd like to order a replacement without taking it apart first. The left side cup of the one that's in now has "SAKAE 1.37 x 24T MADE IN JAPAN" marked on the left side. This side has 6 square notches. I bought the Park BBT-7 tool but it looks like it may not quite fit without removing some of the material from the notches on the tool (?). The right side has two flats and I bought the Park HCW-4 tool for that. All that the original catalog states for BB specs is "Nikko".
Cheers,
Kevin
Does anyone have the specs for a 1982 Trek 613 bottom bracket? I'd like to order a replacement without taking it apart first. The left side cup of the one that's in now has "SAKAE 1.37 x 24T MADE IN JAPAN" marked on the left side. This side has 6 square notches. I bought the Park BBT-7 tool but it looks like it may not quite fit without removing some of the material from the notches on the tool (?). The right side has two flats and I bought the Park HCW-4 tool for that. All that the original catalog states for BB specs is "Nikko".
Cheers,
Kevin
#2
Bianchi Goddess



Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
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Hello. BBs have 2 basic measurements, the BB shell which is either english 1.37x24 and 68mm wide or Italian 36x24 and 70mm wide ( I may have the width mixed up someone will correct me soon) plus MTB wchich is usually 1.37x24 with a 73mm width for the bearings. the second measurement is the lenght of the spindle which is depends on the type of crank you have. your is likely to be a 118mm lenght or so. what brand are your cranks?
as for tools the park HCW4 is the one you need to remove the 'fixed' right side cub and also adjust the left "adjustable" cup. but the bbt7 will not fit this BB. you need a hcw5 to loosen the lockring.
as for tools the park HCW4 is the one you need to remove the 'fixed' right side cub and also adjust the left "adjustable" cup. but the bbt7 will not fit this BB. you need a hcw5 to loosen the lockring.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#3
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Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Hello,
Does anyone have the specs for a 1982 Trek 613 bottom bracket? I'd like to order a replacement without taking it apart first. The left side cup of the one that's in now has "SAKAE 1.37 x 24T MADE IN JAPAN" marked on the left side. This side has 6 square notches. I bought the Park BBT-7 tool but it looks like it may not quite fit without removing some of the material from the notches on the tool (?). The right side has two flats and I bought the Park HCW-4 tool for that. All that the original catalog states for BB specs is "Nikko".
Cheers,
Kevin
Does anyone have the specs for a 1982 Trek 613 bottom bracket? I'd like to order a replacement without taking it apart first. The left side cup of the one that's in now has "SAKAE 1.37 x 24T MADE IN JAPAN" marked on the left side. This side has 6 square notches. I bought the Park BBT-7 tool but it looks like it may not quite fit without removing some of the material from the notches on the tool (?). The right side has two flats and I bought the Park HCW-4 tool for that. All that the original catalog states for BB specs is "Nikko".
Cheers,
Kevin
The required spindle length and spindle end design depend on the crank you will use, as will the tools. Campy cranks fit best on Campy BBs. Nearly everything else fits best on a JIS spindle (hope I got that right, I'm mostly a Campy guy.)
#4
<example> https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...m+Bracket.aspx
#5
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
+1 HCW-4, HCW-5 and HCW-11 are my three most used bb tools. If you are going to work on your bike again, you will need them. If not, take it to your favorite shop and have them do the work. Tools are rarely worth it for a one time job.
+1 Spindle length is related to your crankset.
+1 Those old style bb are often/almost always rebuildable. Just get new ball bearings and grease, and you will be ready to go. The newer cartridge style bb are handy, but you toss them and replace (and they require different tools).
+1 Spindle length is related to your crankset.
+1 Those old style bb are often/almost always rebuildable. Just get new ball bearings and grease, and you will be ready to go. The newer cartridge style bb are handy, but you toss them and replace (and they require different tools).
#6
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From: Valparaiso, IN
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Thanks to all and happy and happy Thanksgiving. Are you certain that HCW-5 is the tool I need? It looks like the BBT-7 would fit if only I narrowed the notches just a little. The dimensions listed for the HCW-5 are slightly smaller (major and minor diameters). Then again, I'm looking at the Park Big Blue Book and it does say the tool I bought is for Dura-Ace and I'm quite certain the existing BB isn't Dura-Ace.
I want to get another BB because I just had it overhauled by a shop and it started making clicking sounds after that just like a BB on another bike did before it needed to be replaced (however I was a little careless with that bike and sprayed liquid lube at the BB when it started "clicking" and got worse after that - now I know better). I'm about to tear this bike down and apply Frame Saver and do some painting and I want to have everything ready to go because this is the bike I ride almost daily.
I want to get another BB because I just had it overhauled by a shop and it started making clicking sounds after that just like a BB on another bike did before it needed to be replaced (however I was a little careless with that bike and sprayed liquid lube at the BB when it started "clicking" and got worse after that - now I know better). I'm about to tear this bike down and apply Frame Saver and do some painting and I want to have everything ready to go because this is the bike I ride almost daily.
#7
Thrifty Bill

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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Post a picture of both sides of your bottom bracket. Lots of variation in styles used by Trek back then.
And unless you bought this bike brand new and know it.s history, there is no way for any of us to know whether that bottom bracket is original or not. Many of us on this list are routinely "borrowing" parts from one bike to the next, upgrading other bikes, and so on. Often vintage bikes do not have the original parts on them. A picture will help either way.
And unless you bought this bike brand new and know it.s history, there is no way for any of us to know whether that bottom bracket is original or not. Many of us on this list are routinely "borrowing" parts from one bike to the next, upgrading other bikes, and so on. Often vintage bikes do not have the original parts on them. A picture will help either way.
Last edited by wrk101; 11-27-09 at 06:36 AM.
#9
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From: Valparaiso, IN
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Well I took some pictures but I'm unable to upload them using either Firefox or IE. When I go to "add files" under "manage attachments", I don't see any way to upload. Maybe it's something yet to be worked out.
#12
Thread Starter
50/50 Road/eBike Commuter
Joined: May 2007
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From: Valparaiso, IN
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix, Specialized Fatboy, Specialized Sirrus, Nashbar Campus, Taga 2.0 Trike
Thank you. Can anyone tell me if I need the Park HCW-5 tool for this instead of the BBT-7 I already have? Again, the notches on the BB are squarish, and there are six of them.
As for fenders: I agree, though somehow the gunk looks a lot worse in the photo (with flash). When I originally bought this bike I expected to use my other bike (Swobo Dixon) in less than fair weather (which already has fenders) but I like riding the Trek so much that I've been taking it in the rain and on wet streets anyway. Santa Claus might be bringing me a set of SKS Chromoplastics for it, though, which would be quite nice. Going to be applying Frame Saver and some fresh paint soon, which is why I'm asking about this tool.
As for fenders: I agree, though somehow the gunk looks a lot worse in the photo (with flash). When I originally bought this bike I expected to use my other bike (Swobo Dixon) in less than fair weather (which already has fenders) but I like riding the Trek so much that I've been taking it in the rain and on wet streets anyway. Santa Claus might be bringing me a set of SKS Chromoplastics for it, though, which would be quite nice. Going to be applying Frame Saver and some fresh paint soon, which is why I'm asking about this tool.
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