Nope, not for your drink, the brake Would a road bike have an issue with a
coaster brake clamp? Bending the stay, or cracking the stay to dropout bond?
I'm not going to be doing hockey sticks or anything, but it would be okay, right?
I am looking to make a 7 speed Nexus equipped road bike/city bike. I guess it
would depend on frame material right? Would Hi Ten or Cromoly be better for this?
I would definitely put a layer or two of rubber on the clamp to cut down on wearing
the tubing and paint finish. I haven't decided on a frame yet. I'm just wanting a bike
without rocks and sand in the brake shoes, at least on one rim.,,,,BD

Yes, I already have the hub, the shifter/cassette unit are on the way.

Little 500 bikes from the annual Indiana University event are configured this way, in this case a single speed with a coaster brake. The one I had in the shop was a Mongoose brand; an old post on BF archives says the frame was aluminum, so I'd imagine either cromoly or hi ten would be fine. Just speculating though.

I think the axle and nuts transmit most of the torque when braking to the dropouts, the arm is kind of a safety thing.
One way to find out.

I agree. I have a know a few riders who run a coaster brake SS for a winter bike. I am sure over the next few hours more than a few coaster riders will chime in on the positive side too

I saw a chrome Paramount with a coaster single speed, I just thought I would ask. Looking forward to more opinions.,,,,BD

I saw on the web way back a bike It think from Italy with a Campagnolo coaster brake hub, now that would be cool.

There was a kid when I was young who had his dad make a coaster lever arm out of alloy, and then drilled out, very cool looking.

Problem with a coaster is of course changing a flat becomes a tool necessary deal.

A pair of wing nuts and a Q/R coaster arm bolt (or another wingnut) could fix that.

-Kurt

I'm considering a Nexus 8 with coaster brake for my next build, and am planning on using oval chromoly chainstays.

The main reason I'm using coaster brakes is because I want to use wooden rims.

I built a coaster town bike for my wife from an aluminum Easton track frame using a NOS Suntour coaster hub. SO far so good... But then again she enjoys easy cruising.

I've got an old 1967 Schwinn 2-speed coaster brake bike with what always looked like a bent chainstay on the brake arm side. One of the more experienced LBS guys (aka: older and been around fab and repairs shops for decades) said the chainstay is probably bent from too many skids. Said he's straightened quite a few of them over the years.

With that said I'd say go for it, just avoid hard slam skids.

THere was an old school shop owner who once suggested running a three to four inch long metal brace over the chainstay to help distribute the braking load.

A very classy combination.

Dued, I think a coaster is a great choice for someone living on the coastal plains, but 7 speeds is over the top!

I'm running a coaster on my wife's Raleigh Sports, but I had it on my bike before that. I don't think it transmits so much torque to the frame as all that, mostly because they don't stop you all that fast. I mean they don't stop ME all that fast, I'm heavy. Coasters are mostly for easy riders.

As soon as I can get the spare loot to buy the CR18 26x 1 3/8" rims, I'll build the rear wheel with a new Shimano brake that I got for $23.

I saw some hooty-tooty vintage bike the other day, probably Italian, with a oval chrome piece either brazed to or just stuck on the chain stay, probably just for what you describe. I thought it was just to keep from wearing the paint, duh.

Agreed, and having seen quite a few of steppinthefunk's bikes before, it's not a surprise!

I am also thinking moustache bars. How many are 7/8's size to accept the shifter? I would think a Raleigh sports would handle a Coaster brake with no problems.
,,,,BD

Most --all that I've actually seen-- are 15/16". I believe there is a 7/8" one out there (I once saw it on the internet); but I can't find it any more. If you find it, please let us know.

That's pretty much what I was thinking. CrMo stuff frequently has thin tubing, strong for its intended purpose, but easily crush-able. I do not recommend clamping anything solid or stress demanding to a chrome moly tube. However, you will probably get away with it if you were to spread the load with the suggested metal brace. That said, you would likely have no problem at all should the frame you choose be of straight gauge high tensile steel, which will have thicker walls to begin with when compared to the CrMo relatives.

I will add that just about anytime I get an old road bicycle, with higher end tubing show up and fitted with the clamp-on center or side stand, the results are usually the same - crushed chain stays. The problem is not nearly as great when dealing with the high tensile tubed bikes.

Hope that is a help.

I've got a UO8 with a coaster. no problems.