Turkey levers
06-02-18, 05:04 PM
#51
Senior Member
Its possible, I am going to find out right off the bat as I'm going to flip it over to test before I change anything else as I wondered about that as well. Can't imagine it won't be ok, solid steel 1930's boat anchor technology, gotta be pretty tough and sturdy I would think. 
I wouldn't assume that because it's 30s tech and steel that that stem is a boat anchor. They did know how to build stuff light then. Steel is probably thin gauge and high quality, like modern Nitto steel track stuff. I guess you could weigh it out of curiosity.
Looking forward to the update in the Paramount thread.
06-02-18, 05:13 PM
#52
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Might be OK. I just don't know.
I wouldn't assume that because it's 30s tech and steel that that stem is a boat anchor. They did know how to build stuff light then. Steel is probably thin gauge and high quality, like modern Nitto steel track stuff. I guess you could weigh it out of curiosity.
Looking forward to the update in the Paramount thread.
I wouldn't assume that because it's 30s tech and steel that that stem is a boat anchor. They did know how to build stuff light then. Steel is probably thin gauge and high quality, like modern Nitto steel track stuff. I guess you could weigh it out of curiosity.
Looking forward to the update in the Paramount thread.
06-02-18, 05:25 PM
#53
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Last bike I sold had them, I did tell the buyer, a young man who may have never seen them before, that they were fine if you were on a flat road going 5 or 10 mph but not to rely on them to stop you if you were bombing down a hill, ha I left the dork disk on too, although its chrome and I cleaned it up as part of the refurb.
IMG_2894 by Ryan Surface, on Flickr
IMG_2894 by Ryan Surface, on Flickr
06-02-18, 05:26 PM
#54
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[QUOTE=desconhecido;20373403]
Yeah I think you're right, going to check later, might end up with generic chrome steel to start. I am going to fab a knuckle for the M Kint bars, may do the same for the Cinelli's, may be just for show, we'll see.
Love the Roller Ball analogy and totally agree, that thing is growing on me more by the minute. A couple of people said I should have saved the $$$ and let the stem go, no way in heck.
Here's the shipping label/build sheet with the numbers that don't match what it has and I can't find any of them for reference anywhere so not sure what to think. FWIW Richard Schwinn said there is info on it he has never seen and imho there is a lot there.
Yep, odd to say the least. I got the original levers with it and will change bars, maybe Cinelli or plain old chrome steel, we'll see. Richard Schwinn said many bikes were spec'd with this stem even though it was originally a track stem. I could have bought the bike for way less without it but despite being fugly, they are one of those things I think you should get your hands on if presented. I already have some correct M Kint maes bars and Titan stem so I have many options and those will go on at some point.
Also, I get it and actually kind of like it in a convoluted sort of way
Cinelli bars are always nice, but my wag is that stem was probably made with 25.4mm steel bars in mind.
My initial impression of that stem was that it was insanely cool, in a Roller Ball sort of way, but upon reflection, if it were my bike and I needed to get my hands a little higher, I probably would get a long Nitto stem to match those bars.
Also, I get it and actually kind of like it in a convoluted sort of way
Cinelli bars are always nice, but my wag is that stem was probably made with 25.4mm steel bars in mind.
My initial impression of that stem was that it was insanely cool, in a Roller Ball sort of way, but upon reflection, if it were my bike and I needed to get my hands a little higher, I probably would get a long Nitto stem to match those bars.
Love the Roller Ball analogy and totally agree, that thing is growing on me more by the minute. A couple of people said I should have saved the $$$ and let the stem go, no way in heck.
Here's the shipping label/build sheet with the numbers that don't match what it has and I can't find any of them for reference anywhere so not sure what to think. FWIW Richard Schwinn said there is info on it he has never seen and imho there is a lot there.
06-03-18, 01:16 AM
#55
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Last bike I sold had them, I did tell the buyer, a young man who may have never seen them before, that they were fine if you were on a flat road going 5 or 10 mph but not to rely on them to stop you if you were bombing down a hill, ha I left the dork disk on too, although its chrome and I cleaned it up as part of the refurb.
IMG_2894 by Ryan Surface, on Flickr
IMG_2894 by Ryan Surface, on Flickr
But for reals; my '86 Univega with turkey levers is dead sexy. Nice ride, too.
It has an aftermarket kickstand, too. And no, I'm not going to take it off. This bike is as exactly as it came from the LBS, without a scratch or any other sign of use.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 06-03-18 at 01:21 AM.
06-03-18, 05:51 AM
#56
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[QUOTE=dddd;20373320]I have an early 1970's Schwinn Paramount that came from the factory with turkey wings and Twin-Stik shift levers mounted ahead of the steering axis to the upper headset. All works great!
I've fitted the rubber hoods to several bikes with these levers, some playing around with spacer washers is needed in some cases.
On Shimano's early Dura-Ace version, the turkey lever is the main lever(!) and the regular lever acts as auxiliary. Needless to say, these require some internal disassembly/reassembly to get the hoods installed, with holes trimmed in the right places and with a very large cutout for the big retaining screw that rotates as the brake is actuated!
Bbattle suggested that today's auxiliary (cable interrupter style) "actually work", but in fact their design is compromised by a big reduction in leverage versus the main levers. All of my "turkey wing" auxiliary levers work smoothly at about the same leverage as the main levers, and provide huge stopping power with the original calipers used on the bikes that have such levers.
I've raced cyclocross using either type, and found them all to be quite good enough, providing added safety when descending steeper sections. Brake pad selection would offer more of a difference in braking performance than lever type, but the turkey wing levers require less force to actuate, all else being equal.
snip /QUOTE]
That is a good looking varsity. I agree about the turkey levers. I've been enjoying mine. I think the problem with them is that you need to stay on top of your brake adjustment but if you do that, they're easy to reach obviously and do a fine job of modulating your speed.
I've fitted the rubber hoods to several bikes with these levers, some playing around with spacer washers is needed in some cases.
On Shimano's early Dura-Ace version, the turkey lever is the main lever(!) and the regular lever acts as auxiliary. Needless to say, these require some internal disassembly/reassembly to get the hoods installed, with holes trimmed in the right places and with a very large cutout for the big retaining screw that rotates as the brake is actuated!
Bbattle suggested that today's auxiliary (cable interrupter style) "actually work", but in fact their design is compromised by a big reduction in leverage versus the main levers. All of my "turkey wing" auxiliary levers work smoothly at about the same leverage as the main levers, and provide huge stopping power with the original calipers used on the bikes that have such levers.
I've raced cyclocross using either type, and found them all to be quite good enough, providing added safety when descending steeper sections. Brake pad selection would offer more of a difference in braking performance than lever type, but the turkey wing levers require less force to actuate, all else being equal.
snip /QUOTE]
That is a good looking varsity. I agree about the turkey levers. I've been enjoying mine. I think the problem with them is that you need to stay on top of your brake adjustment but if you do that, they're easy to reach obviously and do a fine job of modulating your speed.
06-03-18, 07:26 AM
#57
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I find guidonnet levers offer any benefits of "turkey levers" and have a much more solid braking response.
06-03-18, 10:47 AM
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Are those chrome steel rims, too? In rainy Seattle? OK, just admit you wanted that guy to die and we're good here
But for reals; my '86 Univega with turkey levers is dead sexy. Nice ride, too.
It has an aftermarket kickstand, too. And no, I'm not going to take it off. This bike is as exactly as it came from the LBS, without a scratch or any other sign of use.
But for reals; my '86 Univega with turkey levers is dead sexy. Nice ride, too.
It has an aftermarket kickstand, too. And no, I'm not going to take it off. This bike is as exactly as it came from the LBS, without a scratch or any other sign of use.
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