Might be OK. I just don't know.

I wouldn't assume that because it's 30s tech and steel that that stem is a boat anchor. They did know how to build stuff light then. Steel is probably thin gauge and high quality, like modern Nitto steel track stuff. I guess you could weigh it out of curiosity.

Looking forward to the update in the Paramount thread.

Yeah, I should have more carefully worded it, meant solid as in stout, boat anchor as in, tough, bullitproof like many things of the time. This was a very good example of the melding of overbuilding and making it lighter while maintaining strength which it has in spades I think.

Last bike I sold had them, I did tell the buyer, a young man who may have never seen them before, that they were fine if you were on a flat road going 5 or 10 mph but not to rely on them to stop you if you were bombing down a hill, ha I left the dork disk on too, although its chrome and I cleaned it up as part of the refurb.


IMG_2894 by Ryan Surface, on Flickr

[QUOTE=desconhecido;20373403]Yeah I think you're right, going to check later, might end up with generic chrome steel to start. I am going to fab a knuckle for the M Kint bars, may do the same for the Cinelli's, may be just for show, we'll see.

Love the Roller Ball analogy and totally agree, that thing is growing on me more by the minute. A couple of people said I should have saved the $$$ and let the stem go, no way in heck.

Here's the shipping label/build sheet with the numbers that don't match what it has and I can't find any of them for reference anywhere so not sure what to think. FWIW Richard Schwinn said there is info on it he has never seen and imho there is a lot there.

Are those chrome steel rims, too? In rainy Seattle? OK, just admit you wanted that guy to die and we're good here

But for reals; my '86 Univega with turkey levers is dead sexy. Nice ride, too.



It has an aftermarket kickstand, too. And no, I'm not going to take it off. This bike is as exactly as it came from the LBS, without a scratch or any other sign of use.

[QUOTE=dddd;20373320]I have an early 1970's Schwinn Paramount that came from the factory with turkey wings and Twin-Stik shift levers mounted ahead of the steering axis to the upper headset. All works great!

I've fitted the rubber hoods to several bikes with these levers, some playing around with spacer washers is needed in some cases.
On Shimano's early Dura-Ace version, the turkey lever is the main lever(!) and the regular lever acts as auxiliary. Needless to say, these require some internal disassembly/reassembly to get the hoods installed, with holes trimmed in the right places and with a very large cutout for the big retaining screw that rotates as the brake is actuated!

Bbattle suggested that today's auxiliary (cable interrupter style) "actually work", but in fact their design is compromised by a big reduction in leverage versus the main levers. All of my "turkey wing" auxiliary levers work smoothly at about the same leverage as the main levers, and provide huge stopping power with the original calipers used on the bikes that have such levers.
I've raced cyclocross using either type, and found them all to be quite good enough, providing added safety when descending steeper sections. Brake pad selection would offer more of a difference in braking performance than lever type, but the turkey wing levers require less force to actuate, all else being equal.



snip /QUOTE]

That is a good looking varsity. I agree about the turkey levers. I've been enjoying mine. I think the problem with them is that you need to stay on top of your brake adjustment but if you do that, they're easy to reach obviously and do a fine job of modulating your speed.

I find guidonnet levers offer any benefits of "turkey levers" and have a much more solid braking response.

Those chromed steel rims are stock! -just keeping it vintage, and to be fair I did use Koolstop pads in the refurb, but yeah its been getting a bit crowded in the City lately......Nice Univega btw.