For the love of English 3 speeds...
05-08-14, 08:25 AM
#5251
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
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05-08-14, 08:32 AM
#5252
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Here's a 3 speed conversion I did up recently... the hub is a new SRF3 though and the crank is a new SA. The frame was made in Canada (has ISO bb!) so there's not much actual English content on the bike anymore... It's a pretty sprightly ride though, those old Raleigh 10 speeds make great 3 speed conversions. I have an AW and a Grand Prix frame I want to make into a drop-bar 3 speed.
05-09-14, 08:52 PM
#5253
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Previously I had mentioned that I was having troubles with the front fork of my Raleigh Superbe, such that it had thrown me off. In fact it was quite dangerous- I would go for several months and then the fork would stiffen up again. I was lucky- really only got some badly skinned knees.
Turns out that it was the fork lock. Now I had been testing it, and it seemed to not be involved, however, I think I was making an operator error. So I thought I would share this, since falling off a bike that is out of control at speed can be deadly.
I also have a 1952 Schwinn Black Phantom, which also has a locking front fork. I have had this bike much longer than the Superbe. The Schwinn setup has you turn the fork to the right, operate the lock and then remove the key. When the fork is unlocked, it can' t accidently operate since the fork is pointed straight ahead, and it needs to be turned hard in order to be locked. Also, when the fork is unlocked, the key stays in place and cannot be removed.
The Superbe is different. The fork is locked pointing straight ahead. I did not realize that the key has to be removed from the fork when the bike is being used. This act locks the lock mechanism so it cannot move and accidentally engage. If you leave the key in place, the fork lock can drift around as the bike encounters bumps in the road and thus it can randomly lock!
IOW, the key is supposed to stay on your key chain not the fork. It only goes in the fork to operate the lock and it otherwise removed. No doubt this is why most Superbes have been seperated from their keys.
Turns out that it was the fork lock. Now I had been testing it, and it seemed to not be involved, however, I think I was making an operator error. So I thought I would share this, since falling off a bike that is out of control at speed can be deadly.
I also have a 1952 Schwinn Black Phantom, which also has a locking front fork. I have had this bike much longer than the Superbe. The Schwinn setup has you turn the fork to the right, operate the lock and then remove the key. When the fork is unlocked, it can' t accidently operate since the fork is pointed straight ahead, and it needs to be turned hard in order to be locked. Also, when the fork is unlocked, the key stays in place and cannot be removed.
The Superbe is different. The fork is locked pointing straight ahead. I did not realize that the key has to be removed from the fork when the bike is being used. This act locks the lock mechanism so it cannot move and accidentally engage. If you leave the key in place, the fork lock can drift around as the bike encounters bumps in the road and thus it can randomly lock!
IOW, the key is supposed to stay on your key chain not the fork. It only goes in the fork to operate the lock and it otherwise removed. No doubt this is why most Superbes have been seperated from their keys.
05-10-14, 01:27 PM
#5254
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Here's a 3 speed conversion I did up recently... the hub is a new SRF3 though and the crank is a new SA. The frame was made in Canada (has ISO bb!) so there's not much actual English content on the bike anymore... It's a pretty sprightly ride though, those old Raleigh 10 speeds make great 3 speed conversions. I have an AW and a Grand Prix frame I want to make into a drop-bar 3 speed.
Last edited by arex; 05-10-14 at 01:31 PM.
05-10-14, 04:49 PM
#5255
Senior Member
The parts just kinda came together from a few abandoned projects I had on the go. The pedals on this are VP 872 that I found at the local co-op, they're a bit wider and studier than the generic plastic pedals but nothing amazing. I also picked up another AW hub today so I'm gonna go ahead and build a Gran Prix into a 3 speed road bike soon.
05-15-14, 03:00 PM
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Hey all, I'm new to the forum, though at 64, not that new myself.
My "vintage" bike is a 1962 Phillips I've had since new, I was 13 when Dad presented it to me (after he whanged a fence and broke the frame on my old middleweight Columbia, but that's another story). Over the years I never stopped riding it though sometimes it was idle for long periods. But no one ever stole it, so now it's 52 years old and basically original, and nowadays I use it regularly, commute about 3 miles to work on it a couple of times a week, here in New Orleans.
I've been fixing her up slowly, repack bearings, cleaned her up some. Now I'd like to replace the gradually disintegrating rubber pedal blocks while keeping the rest of the pedal (pins and plates) original. Anyone know where I could find replacement rubber blocks--only?
Thanks. If I knew how to post a photo I would, but you all know what she looks like--black, with white fender tail.
My "vintage" bike is a 1962 Phillips I've had since new, I was 13 when Dad presented it to me (after he whanged a fence and broke the frame on my old middleweight Columbia, but that's another story). Over the years I never stopped riding it though sometimes it was idle for long periods. But no one ever stole it, so now it's 52 years old and basically original, and nowadays I use it regularly, commute about 3 miles to work on it a couple of times a week, here in New Orleans.
I've been fixing her up slowly, repack bearings, cleaned her up some. Now I'd like to replace the gradually disintegrating rubber pedal blocks while keeping the rest of the pedal (pins and plates) original. Anyone know where I could find replacement rubber blocks--only?
Thanks. If I knew how to post a photo I would, but you all know what she looks like--black, with white fender tail.
05-15-14, 04:05 PM
#5257
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Since brake pads are things you expect to wear out, I see nothing wrong with putting modern brake pads on, along with modern tires, etc. Kool Stop are inexpensive and unexcelled. No reason to buy any other brand.
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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05-15-14, 04:32 PM
#5258
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Pedals and toeclips
About 4/5's of the way down the page, there's some repro pedal blocks for $20. Not sure they'll fit what you have...I get the feeling that they're meant for Schwinns or something, not English bikes. Somebody out there is bound to make them.
About 4/5's of the way down the page, there's some repro pedal blocks for $20. Not sure they'll fit what you have...I get the feeling that they're meant for Schwinns or something, not English bikes. Somebody out there is bound to make them.
05-15-14, 04:38 PM
#5259
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
Hey all, I'm new to the forum, though at 64, not that new myself.
My "vintage" bike is a 1962 Phillips I've had since new, I was 13 when Dad presented it to me (after he whanged a fence and broke the frame on my old middleweight Columbia, but that's another story). Over the years I never stopped riding it though sometimes it was idle for long periods. But no one ever stole it, so now it's 52 years old and basically original, and nowadays I use it regularly, commute about 3 miles to work on it a couple of times a week, here in New Orleans.
I've been fixing her up slowly, repack bearings, cleaned her up some. Now I'd like to replace the gradually disintegrating rubber pedal blocks while keeping the rest of the pedal (pins and plates) original. Anyone know where I could find replacement rubber blocks--only?
Thanks. If I knew how to post a photo I would, but you all know what she looks like--black, with white fender tail.
My "vintage" bike is a 1962 Phillips I've had since new, I was 13 when Dad presented it to me (after he whanged a fence and broke the frame on my old middleweight Columbia, but that's another story). Over the years I never stopped riding it though sometimes it was idle for long periods. But no one ever stole it, so now it's 52 years old and basically original, and nowadays I use it regularly, commute about 3 miles to work on it a couple of times a week, here in New Orleans.
I've been fixing her up slowly, repack bearings, cleaned her up some. Now I'd like to replace the gradually disintegrating rubber pedal blocks while keeping the rest of the pedal (pins and plates) original. Anyone know where I could find replacement rubber blocks--only?
Thanks. If I knew how to post a photo I would, but you all know what she looks like--black, with white fender tail.
05-15-14, 06:15 PM
#5260
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Repro or relatively new but gently used rubber block pedals are easy to find and reasonably cheap - if you are looking to preserve the original pedals you could buy a new set just to scavenge the blocks.
Do you have the square blocks or the slightly curved ones (and reflector or not)? My wife's 1956 Standard actually has very interesting reflectors in the curved pedals; I used NOS Union pedals on my 49 Humber also with reflectors (which were not what it had originally).
@Sixty Fiver: I used the Sylvan pedals on the 3spd Trek conversion and like them a lot, but they're not cheap and do not look quite right IMO on an older roadster (they look great on one of those Lentons or Reg Harris's posted in another thread).
Do you have the square blocks or the slightly curved ones (and reflector or not)? My wife's 1956 Standard actually has very interesting reflectors in the curved pedals; I used NOS Union pedals on my 49 Humber also with reflectors (which were not what it had originally).
@Sixty Fiver: I used the Sylvan pedals on the 3spd Trek conversion and like them a lot, but they're not cheap and do not look quite right IMO on an older roadster (they look great on one of those Lentons or Reg Harris's posted in another thread).
05-16-14, 09:12 AM
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Thanks to you both.
They are square, no reflector, so I think anything that's the right dimensions would do. And I recently cleaned and repacked both axle bearings at a local bike co-op here, so will try to save the metal parts and look for something used, whether in a pedal or separate. I had hoped someone might be manufacturing them, but so far no soap..
Meanwhile a little electrician's tape on the eroded spots would look genuinely retro, ha ha.
Rode her to work this morning, gorgeous spring day in imperfect but lovely New Orleans. Fyi if you ever visit, much progress in the past year or two on bike lanes and bike paths here, and a new rail-trail in the works from Lakeview neighborhood to the Quarter:
https://www.google.com/search?q=lafi...ml%3B645%3B330
They are square, no reflector, so I think anything that's the right dimensions would do. And I recently cleaned and repacked both axle bearings at a local bike co-op here, so will try to save the metal parts and look for something used, whether in a pedal or separate. I had hoped someone might be manufacturing them, but so far no soap..
Meanwhile a little electrician's tape on the eroded spots would look genuinely retro, ha ha.
Rode her to work this morning, gorgeous spring day in imperfect but lovely New Orleans. Fyi if you ever visit, much progress in the past year or two on bike lanes and bike paths here, and a new rail-trail in the works from Lakeview neighborhood to the Quarter:
https://www.google.com/search?q=lafi...ml%3B645%3B330
05-17-14, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by nolatom
They are square, no reflector, so I think anything that's the right dimensions would do.
Originally Posted by nolatom
Meanwhile a little electrician's tape on the eroded spots would look genuinely retro, ha ha.
Originally Posted by nolatom
Fyi if you ever visit, much progress in the past year or two on bike lanes and bike paths here, and a new rail-trail in the works from Lakeview neighborhood to the Quarter.
05-17-14, 05:21 PM
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05-19-14, 07:07 AM
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For the rust on the rims, personally I'd disassemble the wheel and go the OA route. You can easily assess what you have at that point (though I suspect there will be enough parent metal left to make a go of it). Then I'd lay some epoxy paint down there in the trough to arrest the rust (rust never sleeps) and clear coat the topside.
It's a little bit of work, but that's what makes projects so rewarding.
It's a little bit of work, but that's what makes projects so rewarding.
I picked up a 1978 Sprite 3-speed in FL last week [ 'The Headbadge' - Vintage bicycle information ] and the "flipper" I bought it from had taken a can of black spray paint and coated both the rims and the OEM gumwall tires with paint. I don't think the rims have nearly as much rust in them as kcaut's new Superbe's do but I'm sure the original 36+ year old gumwalls were REALLY ugly; I've never seen any that old that aren't; hence the flipper's urge to "beautify" the bike. [pics to follow at some point; the emerald green with black head tube inset is visually arresting]
Anyway, the question I have is this, is there a reasonably not-too-labor-intensive way to get that black paint off the rims and ~ 1.5 inches of spokes and spoke nipples? This bike is all-original throughout and really deserves to be put back right. Tx.
05-19-14, 07:31 AM
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The parts just kinda came together from a few abandoned projects I had on the go. The pedals on this are VP 872 that I found at the local co-op, they're a bit wider and studier than the generic plastic pedals but nothing amazing. I also picked up another AW hub today so I'm gonna go ahead and build a Gran Prix into a 3 speed road bike soon.
That made for a really nice 3-speed conversion; I have a few planned that will be similar once I get to them.
05-19-14, 07:53 AM
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Dyno-Hub!! Woo hoo! Mine is a little weak after half a century untouched, but still works.
05-19-14, 08:00 AM
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Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Last edited by wahoonc; 05-19-14 at 08:05 AM.
05-19-14, 08:03 AM
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Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
05-19-14, 08:37 AM
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It's been a while since I had the chance to take my '70 Rudge Sports out for a spin. I found a cool "ELITE" headlamp in my father's basement which I think belonged to his old bike. Don't know anything about it, but it seems to fit well!
05-19-14, 08:39 AM
#5272
Senior Member
Nope, my new production srf-3 hub came spaced to 120mm but they have thick spacers under the locknuts so I assume they could be swapped and made to fit narrower spacing should one desire such things. The Grand Prix is getting an AW hub so I might cold-set the frame for the narrower spacing but I might just put the anti-rotation washers on the inside to take up the extra space.
05-19-14, 10:22 AM
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Nope, my new production srf-3 hub came spaced to 120mm but they have thick spacers under the locknuts so I assume they could be swapped and made to fit narrower spacing should one desire such things. The Grand Prix is getting an AW hub so I might cold-set the frame for the narrower spacing but I might just put the anti-rotation washers on the inside to take up the extra space.
05-19-14, 10:33 AM
#5274
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What I'm trying to figure out is why Raleigh apparently went away from the DARE grips, maybe for just that one year, here's the catalog page on the 1977Sprite and it shows DARE's: https://www.kurtkaminer.com/1977raleighcat_us_13_lg.jpg
...and if you look at the 1979 catalog page you'll see DARE's on the bike with the upright "Northrounder" bars: https://www.kurtkaminer.com/1979raleighcat_us_05_lg.jpg
Just trying to figure this stuff out LOL, sometimes it seems that the closer you look at Raleigh nuances the more mysterious they become!
05-19-14, 10:46 AM
#5275
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