1" Steerer, threaded or threadless
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2009
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1" Steerer, threaded or threadless
Hello guys,
am considering buying a Tommasini Tecno frame and fork, I have the option of a 1" threaded or threadless steerer.
Any advantages of one over the other or is it really dependent on which headset you chose to use?
I am considering campy record or chris king headset.
Thanks for your help.
Mick.
am considering buying a Tommasini Tecno frame and fork, I have the option of a 1" threaded or threadless steerer.
Any advantages of one over the other or is it really dependent on which headset you chose to use?
I am considering campy record or chris king headset.
Thanks for your help.
Mick.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 1
Well, Chris King makes 1 inch threadless headsets, and in my opinion threadless set ups are less time consuming during set up, so I'd say go with threadless. I see pretty much no advantage to threaded set ups besides getting them cheap. Usually.
#4
Banned.
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,199
Likes: 1,462
It doesn't stop at the fork.
1" threaded:
Generally uses a more traditional, but also available in modern, 1" threaded headsets.
The steerer tube is generally cut off to work with the stack height of the headset.
The more traditional quill stem is used, and height adjustments are made by inserting the stem farther in/out of the headset.
Bars can be 25.4 to 26.4 in general. 25.4 are most common, 26.0 in a few, and Cinelli bars are 26.4 to match most Cinelli stems.
You have to match clamp size, in general to the bar, or vice versa.
1" threadless:
Generally uses a modern 1" threadless stem, which clamps onto the steerer tube.
You use spacers to set the height of your stem, and often cut it off near your optimum height.
The stem can be flipped, and the stems come in a wide variety of lengths and angles from the steerer tube.
They are now most often sold in black, but some may still come polished.
The stems now are most often 1 1/8" in inside diameter at the steerer tube, so many require a 1" to 1 1/8" shim.
Stems also have a clamp size, generally small (25.4 and 26.0) and OS (oversize), meaning 31.8, to match the bar size.
Traditional quill stems tend to look more at home on traditional steel lugged frames, or those with smaller diameter tubing.
Modern stems tend to look more at home on more modern frames, or t hose with larger diameter tubing, like aluminum.
It's all a matter of opinion. It's a lot easier to change stem sizes on threadless steerers. Changing quill stem sizes requires disassembling half the bar, and often loosening cables, etc.
I have no idea what the bike frame looks like, so I won't offer a subjective opinion on that.
1" threaded:
Generally uses a more traditional, but also available in modern, 1" threaded headsets.
The steerer tube is generally cut off to work with the stack height of the headset.
The more traditional quill stem is used, and height adjustments are made by inserting the stem farther in/out of the headset.
Bars can be 25.4 to 26.4 in general. 25.4 are most common, 26.0 in a few, and Cinelli bars are 26.4 to match most Cinelli stems.
You have to match clamp size, in general to the bar, or vice versa.
1" threadless:
Generally uses a modern 1" threadless stem, which clamps onto the steerer tube.
You use spacers to set the height of your stem, and often cut it off near your optimum height.
The stem can be flipped, and the stems come in a wide variety of lengths and angles from the steerer tube.
They are now most often sold in black, but some may still come polished.
The stems now are most often 1 1/8" in inside diameter at the steerer tube, so many require a 1" to 1 1/8" shim.
Stems also have a clamp size, generally small (25.4 and 26.0) and OS (oversize), meaning 31.8, to match the bar size.
Traditional quill stems tend to look more at home on traditional steel lugged frames, or those with smaller diameter tubing.
Modern stems tend to look more at home on more modern frames, or t hose with larger diameter tubing, like aluminum.
It's all a matter of opinion. It's a lot easier to change stem sizes on threadless steerers. Changing quill stem sizes requires disassembling half the bar, and often loosening cables, etc.
I have no idea what the bike frame looks like, so I won't offer a subjective opinion on that.
#5
Old Crank

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 101
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From: Vermont
Bikes: Bianchi Eros; Motobecane Grand Touring; Nashbar Fra-may;Motobecane Grand Jubilee;Bianchi Advantage; Puegout UO-8;Specialized Mtn Bike.
Go with the treaded option. One can change the height of the stem easier. Once the tube is cut, you are stuck at that height.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7,075
Likes: 6
threaded.
i prefer threadless but on the techno, nothing looks better than a nice quill stem.
my dad has a techno and got it with the threaded fork but eventually updated it to a carbon threadless setup. ascetically, i wished he would go back
edit:
if you want a nice italian quill stem that allows you shange lengths without taking your tape off, look at the deda murex. i just sanded and polished mine. it shines like chrome:
i prefer threadless but on the techno, nothing looks better than a nice quill stem.
my dad has a techno and got it with the threaded fork but eventually updated it to a carbon threadless setup. ascetically, i wished he would go back
edit:
if you want a nice italian quill stem that allows you shange lengths without taking your tape off, look at the deda murex. i just sanded and polished mine. it shines like chrome:
Last edited by thirdgenbird; 02-28-10 at 09:42 PM.
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