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How much rust is too much rust? I think this might be it...

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How much rust is too much rust? I think this might be it...

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Old 03-09-10 | 06:57 PM
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How much rust is too much rust? I think this might be it...

Could have been a nice '87 I believe. Except for the rust!
This is what happens to your bike if you just ride the trainer and never clean the bike I guess.

Components are fine and will clean up nicely. But this frame. Geeze.

Think I can get it to clean up?
I'm thinking there are three options:
1. sand off paint and rust in spots, clear or 'try' touchup paint = trainer bike.
2. remove paint and rust, make into SS or Fixify?
3. shop art

Think there are structural concerns? The SS frame is a nice riding frameset so I'm hoping to salvage more than just components.
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Last edited by thenomad; 03-09-10 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 03-09-10 | 07:02 PM
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That there is some bad rust. Keep in mind that steel frame tubes are only about 1mm thick at the most. That pitting is too deep to be safe, in my opinion.
Also, I had no idea they made Turbo Specials with a lycra cover. That's just wrong.
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Old 03-09-10 | 07:08 PM
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If thats from trainer sweat lemme know how getting the stem outta the bike goes, I just attempted to remove the stem and bars from my miele that I spent 3-4 month trainer sessions on and the stem is seized from all the sweat that found its way between the stem and steerer tube. I guess I forgot to grease it, but even if I did remember I dont think it woulda helped too much, there was nothing but super hard stinky white salt dried up around under my locknut, under the handlebar tape wasnt pretty (not pleasent smelling) as well, its gonna be a battle royal trying to get that out.
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Old 03-09-10 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Torchy McFlux
That there is some bad rust. Keep in mind that steel frame tubes are only about 1mm thick at the most. That pitting is too deep to be safe, in my opinion
+1.
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Old 03-09-10 | 07:15 PM
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I think I'd either go shop art, or just sand it, bondo it, and pray it doesn't die at 35 mph. Short of that, it looks like you're going to be replacing at least two of the tubes, and I can't see that bike being worth the cost to do it. Unless you really, really like it. Then go for it.
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Old 03-09-10 | 07:41 PM
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Downtube is toast IMHO. Thin metal to begin with, some really deep pitting with that rust.
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Old 03-09-10 | 09:59 PM
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I figured it'd be toasted. Hope its not too much "fun" to strip.
Maybe shop stool is all it's good for... or some sort of desk pencil holder...

At least the wheels and components are nice. I may even be able to pick up a super sport frameset that has no rust, just faded paint. Hope to check it out this weekend.
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Old 03-09-10 | 11:22 PM
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Old 03-10-10 | 05:25 AM
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That frame reminds me of some 70's era Fords that my brother had -- a bit of metal and paint between the rust.
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Old 03-10-10 | 05:30 AM
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Cancer && termites. Shop art, or scrap steel, now !
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Old 03-10-10 | 05:35 AM
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Sand down the rusted areas before you decide to chuck it. Remember that rust expands and so occasionally looks worse than it actually is. Probably still toast, but worth a look anyway.
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Old 03-10-10 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Mos6502
Sand down the rusted areas before you decide to chuck it. Remember that rust expands and so occasionally looks worse than it actually is. Probably still toast, but worth a look anyway.
I did some exploratory bead blasting on my Cïocc last weekend .. I wasn't too optimistic but it looks with a little TLC it might be just fine:





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Old 03-10-10 | 08:24 AM
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I would remove the rust (and probably all, or nearly all) of the paint before making an assessment. It looks to me like the worst of it is all on the top tube, which is only under compression; I don't believe it would fail in "normal conditions," that is while you're riding it. It might suffer unduly in a crash, but after that kind of a crash you wouldn't be riding the bike any more, no matter what its condition pre-crash.
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Old 03-10-10 | 08:53 AM
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Def only on the top and bottom of the top tube and head tube and only a few speckles on some other areas.

I have some brass wire wheels for a drill, think they'd be too harsh? I think that'd be the easiest way to get it off other than going through the time for OA in a kiddie pool.

This is why I was thinking of a SS or fixed trainer bike, those cable guides will be lost and it'd be fine for 0 mph garage speed.

Maybe I'll take a look this weekend.
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Old 03-10-10 | 09:22 AM
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I keep a towel on my bars and top tube when using my bike in the trainer - to avoid rust! Hope you find another frame to swap the components to!
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Old 03-11-10 | 04:42 PM
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Ohhhh, this stem is indeed going to be a pisser. The crank bolt covers (alloy) are also frozen in place.

I scraped at the rust and there are indeed some spots of indentation as the rust ate material away. The cable guides may be toast, we'll see. I may be able to salvage them with wire brush and rust converter.
Maybe build the areas up with a dab or two of JB weld as opposed to filler.





On the other hand, this frame may be a candidate for a good "drewing".
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Old 03-11-10 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by thenomad
Ohhhh, this stem is indeed going to be a pisser. The crank bolt covers (alloy) are also frozen in place.

I scraped at the rust and there are indeed some spots of indentation as the rust ate material away. The cable guides may be toast, we'll see. I may be able to salvage them with wire brush and rust converter.
Maybe build the areas up with a dab or two of JB weld as opposed to filler.





On the other hand, this frame may be a candidate for a good "drewing".
It's pretty much drewed as is . Those brake cable guides look done.
It's an '86 btw, based on the color.
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Old 03-11-10 | 08:43 PM
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I have one word for you, "oxalic acid".
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Old 03-11-10 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mike mills
i have two words for you, "aircraft stripper".
fify
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Old 03-11-10 | 09:53 PM
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Stem = super stuck
Cranks have the stupid threaded portion of the caps frozen in the threads. Now I need to figure out how to get them out so I can at least get the parts off the frame!

Argh, I'll never "take a chance" again. And I'm lubing every damn thing I put on a bike, unlike the PO who let this nice bike fall into waste!
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Old 03-13-10 | 11:53 PM
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What a little B*&^%$ this frame is!
I exacted my revenge!!!

Shop stool with drink holder... comin' right up!


I finally got all the parts off except for the stem. This stem is frozen solid. I had the stem clamped and a big breaker bar torquing the forks and all I got was a few loud pops and the stem rotated 1/16 turn each time. Still jammed.

I want to salvage the stem if I can as well as the top headset cap. I don't have the special shape for the cap nut.

Any ideas?
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Old 03-14-10 | 11:26 AM
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That was tragic...I bet it could have been sanded and touched up for casual riding.
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Old 03-14-10 | 11:35 AM
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Eh...I don't know. I think the world is a better place with it like this...

Send those parts to my Uncle's old friend, Andy Gregg.
https://www.bikefurniture.com/
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Old 03-14-10 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SoreFeet
That was tragic...I bet it could have been sanded and touched up for casual riding.
I was really hoping so. BUT, as stated earlier, parts were frozen on at every juncture and I found the headtube had been "squashed" out of position oddly, Not sure how it got that way but it was. I tried to save it but it was too far gone. And the stem/headtube freeze is massive. I'm not talking "put it in a vice and it'll crank out" type of frozen either.
Looks were deceiving here. If I can save this stem and use it I'll at least have some feeling of getting my money (but not time) back.


edit: got the stem out and saved the headset too.

Last edited by thenomad; 03-14-10 at 01:28 PM.
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