How much rust is too much rust? I think this might be it...
#1
How much rust is too much rust? I think this might be it...
Could have been a nice '87 I believe. Except for the rust!
This is what happens to your bike if you just ride the trainer and never clean the bike I guess.
Components are fine and will clean up nicely. But this frame. Geeze.
Think I can get it to clean up?
I'm thinking there are three options:
1. sand off paint and rust in spots, clear or 'try' touchup paint = trainer bike.
2. remove paint and rust, make into SS or Fixify?
3. shop art
Think there are structural concerns? The SS frame is a nice riding frameset so I'm hoping to salvage more than just components.
This is what happens to your bike if you just ride the trainer and never clean the bike I guess.
Components are fine and will clean up nicely. But this frame. Geeze.
Think I can get it to clean up?
I'm thinking there are three options:
1. sand off paint and rust in spots, clear or 'try' touchup paint = trainer bike.
2. remove paint and rust, make into SS or Fixify?
3. shop art
Think there are structural concerns? The SS frame is a nice riding frameset so I'm hoping to salvage more than just components.
Last edited by thenomad; 03-09-10 at 07:01 PM.
#2
That there is some bad rust. Keep in mind that steel frame tubes are only about 1mm thick at the most. That pitting is too deep to be safe, in my opinion.
Also, I had no idea they made Turbo Specials with a lycra cover. That's just wrong.
Also, I had no idea they made Turbo Specials with a lycra cover. That's just wrong.
#3
If thats from trainer sweat lemme know how getting the stem outta the bike goes, I just attempted to remove the stem and bars from my miele that I spent 3-4 month trainer sessions on and the stem is seized from all the sweat that found its way between the stem and steerer tube. I guess I forgot to grease it, but even if I did remember I dont think it woulda helped too much, there was nothing but super hard stinky white salt dried up around under my locknut, under the handlebar tape wasnt pretty (not pleasent smelling) as well, its gonna be a battle royal trying to get that out.
#5
perpetually frazzled

Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,469
Likes: 9
From: Linton, IN
Bikes: 1977 Bridgestone Kabuki Super Speed; 1979 Raleigh Professional; 1983 Raleigh Rapide mixte; 1974 Peugeot UO-8; 1993 Univega Activa Trail; 1972 Raleigh Sports; 1967 Phillips; 1981 Schwinn World Tourist; 1976 Schwinn LeTour mixte; 1964 Western Flyer
I think I'd either go shop art, or just sand it, bondo it, and pray it doesn't die at 35 mph. Short of that, it looks like you're going to be replacing at least two of the tubes, and I can't see that bike being worth the cost to do it. Unless you really, really like it. Then go for it.
#6
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,645
Likes: 1,109
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Downtube is toast IMHO. Thin metal to begin with, some really deep pitting with that rust.
#7
I figured it'd be toasted. Hope its not too much "fun" to strip.
Maybe shop stool is all it's good for... or some sort of desk pencil holder...
At least the wheels and components are nice. I may even be able to pick up a super sport frameset that has no rust, just faded paint. Hope to check it out this weekend.
Maybe shop stool is all it's good for... or some sort of desk pencil holder...
At least the wheels and components are nice. I may even be able to pick up a super sport frameset that has no rust, just faded paint. Hope to check it out this weekend.
#11
Elitest Murray Owner
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,657
Likes: 3
Bikes: 1972 Columbia Tourist Expert III, Columbia Roadster
Sand down the rusted areas before you decide to chuck it. Remember that rust expands and so occasionally looks worse than it actually is. Probably still toast, but worth a look anyway.
#12


Scott
#13
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,810
Likes: 597
From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
I would remove the rust (and probably all, or nearly all) of the paint before making an assessment. It looks to me like the worst of it is all on the top tube, which is only under compression; I don't believe it would fail in "normal conditions," that is while you're riding it. It might suffer unduly in a crash, but after that kind of a crash you wouldn't be riding the bike any more, no matter what its condition pre-crash.
#14
Def only on the top and bottom of the top tube and head tube and only a few speckles on some other areas.
I have some brass wire wheels for a drill, think they'd be too harsh? I think that'd be the easiest way to get it off other than going through the time for OA in a kiddie pool.
This is why I was thinking of a SS or fixed trainer bike, those cable guides will be lost and it'd be fine for 0 mph garage speed.
Maybe I'll take a look this weekend.
I have some brass wire wheels for a drill, think they'd be too harsh? I think that'd be the easiest way to get it off other than going through the time for OA in a kiddie pool.
This is why I was thinking of a SS or fixed trainer bike, those cable guides will be lost and it'd be fine for 0 mph garage speed.
Maybe I'll take a look this weekend.
#15
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,022
Likes: 16
From: Northern N.J.
Bikes: '11 TIME NXR Instinct, '03 De Rosa Planet '79 Paris Sport (Moulton)
I keep a towel on my bars and top tube when using my bike in the trainer - to avoid rust! Hope you find another frame to swap the components to!
__________________
'11 Time NXR Instinct / '79 Paris Sport by Moulton
'11 Time NXR Instinct / '79 Paris Sport by Moulton
#16
Ohhhh, this stem is indeed going to be a pisser. The crank bolt covers (alloy) are also frozen in place.
I scraped at the rust and there are indeed some spots of indentation as the rust ate material away. The cable guides may be toast, we'll see. I may be able to salvage them with wire brush and rust converter.
Maybe build the areas up with a dab or two of JB weld as opposed to filler.
On the other hand, this frame may be a candidate for a good "drewing".
I scraped at the rust and there are indeed some spots of indentation as the rust ate material away. The cable guides may be toast, we'll see. I may be able to salvage them with wire brush and rust converter.
Maybe build the areas up with a dab or two of JB weld as opposed to filler.
On the other hand, this frame may be a candidate for a good "drewing".
#17
Ohhhh, this stem is indeed going to be a pisser. The crank bolt covers (alloy) are also frozen in place.
I scraped at the rust and there are indeed some spots of indentation as the rust ate material away. The cable guides may be toast, we'll see. I may be able to salvage them with wire brush and rust converter.
Maybe build the areas up with a dab or two of JB weld as opposed to filler.
On the other hand, this frame may be a candidate for a good "drewing".
I scraped at the rust and there are indeed some spots of indentation as the rust ate material away. The cable guides may be toast, we'll see. I may be able to salvage them with wire brush and rust converter.
Maybe build the areas up with a dab or two of JB weld as opposed to filler.
On the other hand, this frame may be a candidate for a good "drewing".
. Those brake cable guides look done. It's an '86 btw, based on the color.
#20
Stem = super stuck
Cranks have the stupid threaded portion of the caps frozen in the threads. Now I need to figure out how to get them out so I can at least get the parts off the frame!
Argh, I'll never "take a chance" again. And I'm lubing every damn thing I put on a bike, unlike the PO who let this nice bike fall into waste!
Cranks have the stupid threaded portion of the caps frozen in the threads. Now I need to figure out how to get them out so I can at least get the parts off the frame!
Argh, I'll never "take a chance" again. And I'm lubing every damn thing I put on a bike, unlike the PO who let this nice bike fall into waste!
#21
What a little B*&^%$ this frame is!
I exacted my revenge!!!
Shop stool with drink holder... comin' right up!

I finally got all the parts off except for the stem. This stem is frozen solid. I had the stem clamped and a big breaker bar torquing the forks and all I got was a few loud pops and the stem rotated 1/16 turn each time. Still jammed.

I want to salvage the stem if I can as well as the top headset cap. I don't have the special shape for the cap nut.
Any ideas?
I exacted my revenge!!!
Shop stool with drink holder... comin' right up!
I finally got all the parts off except for the stem. This stem is frozen solid. I had the stem clamped and a big breaker bar torquing the forks and all I got was a few loud pops and the stem rotated 1/16 turn each time. Still jammed.
I want to salvage the stem if I can as well as the top headset cap. I don't have the special shape for the cap nut.
Any ideas?
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 1
Eh...I don't know. I think the world is a better place with it like this...
Send those parts to my Uncle's old friend, Andy Gregg.
https://www.bikefurniture.com/
Send those parts to my Uncle's old friend, Andy Gregg.
https://www.bikefurniture.com/
#24
Looks were deceiving here. If I can save this stem and use it I'll at least have some feeling of getting my money (but not time) back.
edit: got the stem out and saved the headset too.
Last edited by thenomad; 03-14-10 at 01:28 PM.
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