Hey guys, I'm about to be done sanding and stripping my paramount and was wondering if you could help me out.

The frame had a few rust spots and I have sanded them down to the metal. However, even after sanding, I can still see some tiny black dots where the rust spots used to be. I was wondering if there is a primer that would prevent those tiny spots from spreading again. I was reading about rust-oleum but would that work on the long run? I've read in the forum that some people have treated stuff like this by sinking their frames on oxalic acid but I don't want to go through that trouble unless it is absolutely necessary.

You did that to a Paramount?

My god. It had better have been terrifically awful condition.

It didn't have the original paint. If it had had the original paint I would just have left it alone and and cleaned it up.

+1 - it needed it.

-Kurt

+1 agreed

You are absolved of any sin, my son.

I hope you avoided sratching the chrome lugs.

I use one of these products instead of deck cleaner:

https://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/rustremove.aspx

I know it's sad to see that bare bike frame but I will do my best to bring it back to life. Once I'm finished I will be riding it from Chicago to Milwaukee with a couple of friends, can't wait!

I will check out these products. There seems to be tons of choices so I will do some research. Thanks.

Here's the problem - you should have asked this BEFORE sanding your frame exposing bare steel to the elements.

Right now, your frame is rusting. Rust never sleeps.

You can use a primer that neutralizes the rust. Ask at an auto body paint store.

I understand. I actually have to do the final sanding to get rid of any rough spots so that should take care of any light rusting that might take place within the next 36 hours.

If you must rattle can it, I've had good luck with this. They're in order of application left to right. One can of each primer and two each of color and clear will be pleanty. Follow the instructions on the can. At least 68 degrees, low humidity. Recoat within one hour or wait a week and sand then spray.

I'd use a 2 part epoxy primer. You can now get such a primer in an areosol can that is contructed in 2 chambers that you perforate right before use.
An epoxy primer will seal any of the miniscule areas of corrosion and keep it from resurfacing and will greatly reduce chipping and scratches compared to a traditional primer.

If you are in the Chicago area or North, I would be really tempted just to take it to Waterford yourself and have them do it, I know it is not cheap, but in a face to face with them, AND it being 99% stripped, they could get you done quickly and it would be as close to factory as you could get. It would be the best way of preserving its value.

Cool, good man!

I spent all weekend spraying lacquer. And I do mean all weekend as in about 16 hours with a respirator on. I don't want to see another can of paint for quite some time.

I'm really liking this product. Did you buy it on the internet or do you think it'll be available at a store?

I don't think this bike qualifies for a waterford restoration, it was in way too bad of a condition. I might save my money and see if I can find a badge which can be pretty pricey. Also, I plan on using this bike a lot in the city and I would be afraid of using it and locking it places after a restoration. My hope is to someday find one in a better condition to have for a "show bike."

+1 to what everyone else said. Sorry to have doubted/cast aspersions on your character.

You can also get catalyzed urethane paint in those cans, but they're very expensive and very bad for your health.

You should make a post or send me a message when you're planning on going, would love to tag along if you don't mind a couple riders you don't know.

The concern for a one time exposure (hobbyist) is can be very different than for repeated exposures (daily use as a professional). Either way, it is important to know how to minimize exposure (respirator, gloves, goggles, adequate ventilation).

If you can smell it, you don't have adequate protection.

There are a number of different metal preparations available that you can use -- almost all of them contain phosphoric acid. What happens is that the rust gets converted to a phosphate and a thin layer of phosphate will form over all the treated areas. That's good, because it greatly reduces the probability of rust formation before you paint and also creates a good surface for the paint to adhere to. You can also use a red primer which contains, I think, zinc phosphate which will also help prevent rust. Probably, if your frame is clean and almost rust free, just the phosphoric acid treatment is sufficient -- use regular primer. What you do is wash all the areas that you're going to paint with the phosphoric acid stuff and then wash that off. Dry it and then wipe with acetone to remove any gunk that the acid stuff may have left behind. Depending on the product, there may or may not be anything left behind. If you go to an auto paint store you can find treatment that leaves almost no extraneous residue behind. After treatment, keep it clean and don't touch it except with gloves on. The areas that you see which contain a little corrosion will still be discolored (black) but will now be safe to paint.

I posted a link to those. I use Metal Prep, but I still use a self etching primer.

Yes, you did, and I saw it, and the link contains bunches of good information. I was just expanding a bit on the topic.

Thanks, after doing some research I think I will go with this method.