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Restoring a Reynolds 531 Frame

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Old 07-01-10 | 08:51 PM
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Go 126mm, it's what it was made for. A few millimeters variance, provided the frame is straight, is nothing to worry about - this isn't an aluminum frame.

-Kurt
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Old 07-01-10 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by cudak888
Go 126mm, it's what it was made for. A few millimeters variance, provided the frame is straight, is nothing to worry about - this isn't an aluminum frame.

-Kurt
The reason I said I'd prefer to use a 130mm is because I'm building a fixed gear...and I rather not spend $200+ on a Phil Wood 126mm track hub - since I've been unable to find a 126mm track hub manufactured by any other company. Maybe I've not been looking in the right places?

Edit* Wait I spoke too soon, lol. I've found some. Any you would recommend, Kurt?

I see a few 126mm from a company called Formula (I think) on Sheldon's site, and a few that can be adjusted with caps or whatever to fit different spacing. Am I missing any? Leaving any out that I should take into account?

Last edited by cikal; 07-01-10 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 07-01-10 | 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cikal
The reason I said I'd prefer to use a 130mm is because I'm building a fixed gear...and I rather not spend $200+ on a Phil Wood 126mm track hub - since I've been unable to find a 126mm track hub manufactured by any other company. Maybe I've not been looking in the right places?

Edit* Wait I spoke too soon, lol. I've found some. Any you would recommend, Kurt?

I see a few 126mm from a company called Formula (I think) on Sheldon's site, and a few that can be adjusted with caps or whatever to fit different spacing. Am I missing any? Leaving any out that I should take into account?
The Formulas are decent, mid-range hubs - identical to the IRO's and virtually every other generic fixed hub. In many ways, they're the only new fixed hub set that you can actively get your hands on that isn't a Dura-Ace or Phil.

This said, their only weakness are their locknuts - have them changed out at your LBS for a different set. Anything but another set of Formula locknuts. The heat-treating on these locknuts vary in quality, and many batches crack extremely easily. No big issue though, so long as the shop has the locknuts to swap onto it. Don't let this scare you from the hubs themselves; they're good all-round hubs.

-Kurt
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Old 07-02-10 | 12:55 AM
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130 mm - 126 mm = 4 mm

4 mm / 2 sides = 2 mm/side

2 mm /side = 0.080"/side

A stay that is almost two feet long should be able to flex 2 mm with no trouble. You could have it cold-set to a particular dimension, but why bother? Am I wrong?
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Old 07-02-10 | 07:10 PM
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Kurt, Mike...thank you for your wisdom

Can't wait to build this thing
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Old 07-03-10 | 12:08 PM
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If you're building a fixed gear, you want 120mm rear spacing. Cold set it according to Sheldon Brown's instructions. Any fool can do it. Even me.
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Old 07-03-10 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Grand Bois
If you're building a fixed gear, you want 120mm rear spacing. Cold set it according to Sheldon Brown's instructions. Any fool can do it. Even me.
Why 120mm? I'm sure what I have will still technically work. It's not as if I'm going to be using it on the drome

But maybe I'm wrong?
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Old 07-03-10 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by cikal
Why 120mm? I'm sure what I have will still technically work. It's not as if I'm going to be using it on the drome

But maybe I'm wrong?
120mm is the standard width for a track/SS rear hub.
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Old 07-03-10 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
120mm is the standard width for a track/SS rear hub.
Right. It's the standard. But there are track hubs made in many other sizes. So it doesn't matter if the rear spacing is 120mm or 135mm...either way there'll be a hub to match.
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Old 07-13-10 | 09:56 PM
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So, I found these:

https://cgi.ebay.com/VELOCITY-DEEP-V-...#ht_2687wt_913

I wasn't aware Velocity made their Deep Vs in a Silver w/Machined Sidewalls...but I guess they do?

Anyway, would it be alright to use spacers to achieve the 126mm spacing? Or should I go for a straight 126mm hub so I won't have to use spacers?

Thanks...
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Old 07-13-10 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by cikal
Anyway, would it be alright to use spacers to achieve the 126mm spacing?
If there's enough axle surface, sure. Either that, or simply use the Sheldon method to go down to 120mm.

-Kurt
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Old 07-13-10 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by cudak888
If there's enough axle surface, sure. Either that, or simply use the Sheldon method to go down to 120mm.

-Kurt
Aight! Good stuff.

Here is a list of the components I'm thinking about throwing on this frame:

Headset: Tange Levin JIS Headset (27mm crown race, 33.4mm stack height)
Quill/Stem: Nitto Technomic Deluxe (190mm quill, 11cm stem, clamp 25.4mm)
Handlebar: Nitto B2500 Straight Handlebar (25.4mm)
Seatpost: Thomson Elite (silver, 27.2mm, 330mm)
Wheels: Velocity Deep Vs w/Formula track hubs (linked to in previous post)
Crankset: Sugino 75 (silver, 165mm, not sure how many teeth yet)
Chainring: Sugino 75 (silver, not sure how many teeth yet)
Cog: Euro-Asia 1/8'' track cog (not sure how many teeth yet)
Chain: Izumi Eco-Silver 1/8''
Pedals: MKS Sylvan Touring

Gonna send the bike away to be painted, too. Gonna get it powdercoated...not sure what color, though.

Any feedback on the list up there?
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Old 07-27-10 | 01:47 PM
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Before I order a wheelset, I'm just wondering if this frame will fit 700c wheels. I'm pretty sure it will...but I just want to double check.
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Old 07-27-10 | 01:54 PM
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yes, but you may require long reach brake calipers.
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Old 07-27-10 | 08:39 PM
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Consider ordering a short track style pedal like the MKS Sylvan Stream instead of the extra long Sylvan Touring to avoid pedal strike.

The ad says that you can space those hubs to 126 or 130 millimeters. You can't do that with my Formula hubs. The axle is just long enough for 120 mm spacing. Mine are fixed/free. Maybe the fixed/fixed version is different.

Forget the hideous Thompson post and get this:

https://shop.vendio.com/benscycle/ite.../?s=1280217362

Last edited by Grand Bois; 07-27-10 at 08:43 PM.
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