I think proper standover height is achieved when: "If in an emergency you can hit your feet on the ground to come to a complete stop without hitting the top bar and causing pain to your body parts". I think all of the other tubes of the bikes geometry are not important at that time. I mean really?

I don't worry about standover for road bikes. If you're using foot retention devices of some sort, then bailing out to where you're straddling the top tube is exceedingly rare IME.

I do prefer MTBs with low top tubes however. Especially if doing tricks, riding without foot retention, etc.

Not surprising that lots of people have chimed in. The standover height is just one of many factors in bike fit. If someone at your LBS made a blanket statement like that, they're just wrong and trying to sound like they're smart so they can sell you something. Think about it this way: what if you got on a bike whose top tube was 40 inches off the ground, but the bottom bracket was 10 inches higher than your bikes? It might actually feel small. Picture a penny farthing: you had to climb a friggin' ladder to get on the things but anybody could pedal them.

All bike makers use different geometries and most measure size differently, so unless you want to do all the research to figure out how to compare them on paper, you're going to have to go ride them to figure out which ones fit you.

Then keep in mind that if you do end up going with a "smaller" or more compact bike, and add a freakishly long stem like 200mm, you're going to have to deal with very quick steering...so getting the fit right is way more than just about the frame.

One thing, a longer stem slows steering reaction, a shorter stem speeds it up.

Typo.

That can't be right...



I am happiest on a 55 cm frame with a 55-56 cm top tube and my Twenty has a virtual top tube of.... 55cm.