Axle Slipping in Chrome Dropout
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 530
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From: Maine
Bikes: 90 Raleigh Chill MTB, 92 Trek 1200, 2004 Trek 2300, 67 Sports, 70 Sports, 71 Philips, Lotus Challenger, 74 Super Course, Univega Gran Tourismo, Nishiki Seral
Axle Slipping in Chrome Dropout
Got aproblem with the axle slipping in the dropout on my Super Course. Tried a star washer, didn't help. Hate to have to attack with a grinder to rough up the surface but the wheel keeps moving dangerously close to the left chainstay. Anybody got an easy fix on this?
#3
perpetually frazzled

Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,469
Likes: 9
From: Linton, IN
Bikes: 1977 Bridgestone Kabuki Super Speed; 1979 Raleigh Professional; 1983 Raleigh Rapide mixte; 1974 Peugeot UO-8; 1993 Univega Activa Trail; 1972 Raleigh Sports; 1967 Phillips; 1981 Schwinn World Tourist; 1976 Schwinn LeTour mixte; 1964 Western Flyer
I had that problem with a fixed gear I'm running (and also with the phillips Sports/SA AW). I swapped out the quick release, and that took care of the problem. I went with a more modern internal-cam Salsa QR, and it solved the problem.
#4
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74 Super Course = stamped dropouts.
The stamped DO's on the Super Course are narrower than most forged dropouts. You might find that a few Q/R axles - depending on the tolerances they were designed for - might stick out from the axle locknuts just enough that the cam and adjuster won't be able to bite onto the dropout without bottoming out on the axle as well.
Check for this issue; if it is the case, install spacers of equal width (1mm/ea ought to do it) on each side, or file the axle on both sides until the cam bottoms out correctly.
Another thing - unlikely, but possible: Campagnolo Triomphe skewers are notorious for having very little bite, even on paint or bare steel. The cam and adjuster are quite small, AND squared off. Form over function in it's worst form.
That said, Triomphe skewers aren't the only slippery ones out there. If your problem is not related to axle length, just change the skewer for something that has a gripper groove pattern and try that.
-Kurt
The stamped DO's on the Super Course are narrower than most forged dropouts. You might find that a few Q/R axles - depending on the tolerances they were designed for - might stick out from the axle locknuts just enough that the cam and adjuster won't be able to bite onto the dropout without bottoming out on the axle as well.
Check for this issue; if it is the case, install spacers of equal width (1mm/ea ought to do it) on each side, or file the axle on both sides until the cam bottoms out correctly.
Another thing - unlikely, but possible: Campagnolo Triomphe skewers are notorious for having very little bite, even on paint or bare steel. The cam and adjuster are quite small, AND squared off. Form over function in it's worst form.
That said, Triomphe skewers aren't the only slippery ones out there. If your problem is not related to axle length, just change the skewer for something that has a gripper groove pattern and try that.
-Kurt
#5
74 Super Course = stamped dropouts.
The stamped DO's on the Super Course are narrower than most forged dropouts. You might find that a few Q/R axles - depending on the tolerances they were designed for - might stick out from the axle locknuts just enough that the cam and adjuster won't be able to bite onto the dropout without bottoming out on the axle as well.
Check for this issue; if it is the case, install spacers of equal width (1mm/ea ought to do it) on each side, or file the axle on both sides until the cam bottoms out correctly.
Another thing - unlikely, but possible: Campagnolo Triomphe skewers are notorious for having very little bite, even on paint or bare steel. The cam and adjuster are quite small, AND squared off. Form over function in it's worst form.
That said, Triomphe skewers aren't the only slippery ones out there. If your problem is not related to axle length, just change the skewer for something that has a gripper groove pattern and try that.
-Kurt
The stamped DO's on the Super Course are narrower than most forged dropouts. You might find that a few Q/R axles - depending on the tolerances they were designed for - might stick out from the axle locknuts just enough that the cam and adjuster won't be able to bite onto the dropout without bottoming out on the axle as well.
Check for this issue; if it is the case, install spacers of equal width (1mm/ea ought to do it) on each side, or file the axle on both sides until the cam bottoms out correctly.
Another thing - unlikely, but possible: Campagnolo Triomphe skewers are notorious for having very little bite, even on paint or bare steel. The cam and adjuster are quite small, AND squared off. Form over function in it's worst form.
That said, Triomphe skewers aren't the only slippery ones out there. If your problem is not related to axle length, just change the skewer for something that has a gripper groove pattern and try that.
-Kurt
#6
I have the same issue on my Dawes Galaxy. I ended up installing a flat washer on each side of the axle, then a toothed washer next to each dropout. It's cheesy, but it works. I'm hesitant to grind the axles, as the hubs are Campy Record high flange and I may not keep them on this bike- the DO's on the Dawes are thin and flimsy compared to my Paramount and Cinelli SC. However, I still like the Dawes alot- it's my "truck" for going to the store, etc.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Rhode Island (an obscure suburb of Connecticut)
Bikes: one of each
I'm getting this on my old Raleigh fixy. It's got the old "R" wingnuts and I'm afraid to crank them down any harder. Maybe I should give up and put hex nuts on it. Darn it those wingnuts are cool.
#8
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Southern Florida
Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com
I have the same issue on my Dawes Galaxy. I ended up installing a flat washer on each side of the axle, then a toothed washer next to each dropout. It's cheesy, but it works. I'm hesitant to grind the axles, as the hubs are Campy Record high flange and I may not keep them on this bike- the DO's on the Dawes are thin and flimsy compared to my Paramount and Cinelli SC. However, I still like the Dawes alot- it's my "truck" for going to the store, etc.
-Kurt
#10
Swap out the newer skewers with older ones, and you should be all set. The older ones have a stronger cam action, I believe. I had this issue with the Ciocc, and new (old) skewers solved the problem.
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#12
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Excellent advice Kurt. All q-r axle ends must be below flush to the outside of the dropouts, and adding washers/spacers is a minimally technical/expensive method.
Some of the posters who only rely on the grip of any type of star or toothed washer should rather double-check to make sure their axle ends aren't flush or past the outside clamping surfaces.
Some of the posters who only rely on the grip of any type of star or toothed washer should rather double-check to make sure their axle ends aren't flush or past the outside clamping surfaces.
#13
curmudgineer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,417
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From: Chicago SW burbs
Bikes: 2 many 2 fit here
Yep, I had the same problem when I was experimenting with different skewers, and found that as long as the , axle length, spacing between end nuts, dropout thickness & skewer length are combined correctly, it will clamp just fine.
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