Installing Drop Bars in Stem Tips?
#1
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From: West of St. Louis
Bikes: (3) 1970's Raleigh Sports, (1) 1968 Robin Hood 3 speed, 1974 Raleigh Grand Prix, 1976 Raleigh Grand Prix, 1969 Peugeot UO-18, 1971 Peugeot UO-08, 1980 Giant road bike, 1954 Humber, 1940ish Hercules Popular, 1963 Dunelt, 2007 Trek 3700 mountain bike
Installing Drop Bars in Stem Tips?
Anyone have any tips on installing drop bars in stems to avoid scratching the handlbars? Is it common practice to spread the stem to allow better clearance? Would a coating of grease help at all?
#3
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Bikes: '89 Cannondale SR300; '64-'66 Allegro Special; '83 Centurion LeMans RS; '74 Raleigh Grand Prix
#4
i disagree with patience. it doesn't always work.
use a screwdriver to slightly pry open the stem. this definitely helps get bars in with less scratches, although i don't think ive ever been able to do it without a scratch.
remember, the inside of the bar curve goes towards the stem bolt area.
use a screwdriver to slightly pry open the stem. this definitely helps get bars in with less scratches, although i don't think ive ever been able to do it without a scratch.
remember, the inside of the bar curve goes towards the stem bolt area.
#5
i disagree with patience. it doesn't always work.
Seriously, if patience doesn't work....it means you are not using it enough
Last edited by Andrew F; 09-07-10 at 10:25 PM.
#6
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Here's my piece of advice. Spend the $20 and buy yourself the most useful tool in any mechanic's arsenal: a stem and seatpost spreader.
https://www.mtnbikes.net/cal-vanstemspreader.aspx
This tool saves my butt on a bikely basis, keeping all of the show bikes free of unsightly gashes, and it DEFINITELY helped even on my modern seatpost from MOOTS.
https://www.mtnbikes.net/cal-vanstemspreader.aspx
This tool saves my butt on a bikely basis, keeping all of the show bikes free of unsightly gashes, and it DEFINITELY helped even on my modern seatpost from MOOTS.
#7
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Well, Nitto makes an expensive pry bar for the purpose of spreading stem clamps, and you can do the same thing with careful use of a screwdriver or a small nail puller:

Neal
Neal
#8
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We're talking about aluminum, right? That makes me nervous. Oh well, I guess, if they make a tool for it, it must be OK...
I just lived with scratched bars. Embrace imperfection. Plus I own very few bike parts that I would be afraid of giving minor damage.
I just lived with scratched bars. Embrace imperfection. Plus I own very few bike parts that I would be afraid of giving minor damage.
#9
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Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC
Most stems have slighly angled cuts to the clamp area (usually at the bottom of the clamp, that will let you manuever the bar bends through without any jamming. try looking for these angled notches and slowly slip the bar through. These cuts will let the inside of the curve go through because it shortens the clamping tube in that area. I have not run across a bar that won't go through a stem without any spreading of the clamp. It is not to say that there could be bars out there with more severe bends (ergo bars) that might require spreading if there is no way it would go through.
Chombi
Chombi
#10
You can also spread the stem without any chance of leaving a mark by inseting a large phillips screwdriver in the bolt hole and pulling back.
Obviously, if Nitto makes a tool to spread their stems it's okay to do it.
The problem it not getting the bar through the stem. It's done the way Chombi desribes and I think that anyone who has spent much time working on bikes knows it.. The problem is when you get to the larger clamp area. You often have to spread the stem or leave marks on the bar at that point.
Obviously, if Nitto makes a tool to spread their stems it's okay to do it.
The problem it not getting the bar through the stem. It's done the way Chombi desribes and I think that anyone who has spent much time working on bikes knows it.. The problem is when you get to the larger clamp area. You often have to spread the stem or leave marks on the bar at that point.
Last edited by Grand Bois; 09-07-10 at 07:11 PM.
#13
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If anyone has tried putting a Cinelli 1A stem on a set of Cinelli bars, I think they can understand the OP's frustration.
I thin coating of grease doesn't hurt, but I use a wooden wedge angled just for this purpose. You don't need to pry it far to get it over the sleeve. I have found that going in from the roght side on a Cinelli, with the stem rotated back about 90* helps, but that may be just anecdotal to my experiences.
Just last week I faced this with a bike I built for my wife, and had to swap the stem out for a different length after the initial build, so I had to do it twice without scratching the center sleeve.
I thin coating of grease doesn't hurt, but I use a wooden wedge angled just for this purpose. You don't need to pry it far to get it over the sleeve. I have found that going in from the roght side on a Cinelli, with the stem rotated back about 90* helps, but that may be just anecdotal to my experiences.
Just last week I faced this with a bike I built for my wife, and had to swap the stem out for a different length after the initial build, so I had to do it twice without scratching the center sleeve.
#14
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From: West of St. Louis
Bikes: (3) 1970's Raleigh Sports, (1) 1968 Robin Hood 3 speed, 1974 Raleigh Grand Prix, 1976 Raleigh Grand Prix, 1969 Peugeot UO-18, 1971 Peugeot UO-08, 1980 Giant road bike, 1954 Humber, 1940ish Hercules Popular, 1963 Dunelt, 2007 Trek 3700 mountain bike
I didn't think my post would get this many responses, thanks for those, and I had no idea that there are actually tools available that were designed specifically for this purpose. The Cal-Van stem spreader looks like a snap ring pliers. Does this tool actually work?
To clarify, I am speaking of a stem stem, not aluminum. I plan on installing a set of 22mm steel drop barss into a Raleigh stem typically found on the 3 speed Sports models.
To clarify, I am speaking of a stem stem, not aluminum. I plan on installing a set of 22mm steel drop barss into a Raleigh stem typically found on the 3 speed Sports models.
#16
All you need is a long m5 bolt with two nuts, and perhaps a few matching washers to make a stem spreader.
The bolt goes through the stem with the nuts and washers in the middle... back the nuts away from each other and this will spread the stem just a little and hold it that way while you are installing the bars.
My friend and I figured this out the other day when we were extracting a Cinelli bar from a Nitto stem.
The bolt goes through the stem with the nuts and washers in the middle... back the nuts away from each other and this will spread the stem just a little and hold it that way while you are installing the bars.
My friend and I figured this out the other day when we were extracting a Cinelli bar from a Nitto stem.
Last edited by Sixty Fiver; 09-07-10 at 11:29 PM.
#17
You can also spread the stem without any chance of leaving a mark by inseting a large phillips screwdriver in the bolt hole and pulling back.
Obviously, if Nitto makes a tool to spread their stems it's okay to do it.
The problem it not getting the bar through the stem. It's done the way Chombi desribes and I think that anyone who has spent much time working on bikes knows it.. The problem is when you get to the larger clamp area. You often have to spread the stem or leave marks on the bar at that point.
Obviously, if Nitto makes a tool to spread their stems it's okay to do it.
The problem it not getting the bar through the stem. It's done the way Chombi desribes and I think that anyone who has spent much time working on bikes knows it.. The problem is when you get to the larger clamp area. You often have to spread the stem or leave marks on the bar at that point.
#18
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From: Canton, OH
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
I use dish soap... .I don't know if it helps but it does make me feel better.
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#19
I slip a thin jam nut and a piece of sheet metal in the clamp slot and run a bolt in from the front, the bolt goes through the unthreaded hole of the stem, engages the jam nut then the end of the bolt drives against the sheet metal gently prying and holding the clamp open while you slip the bars through.
#20
All you need is a long m5 bolt with two nuts, and perhaps a few matching washers to make a stem spreader.
The bolt goes through the stem with the nuts and washers in the middle... back the nuts away from each other and this will spread the stem just a little and hold it that way while you are installing the bars.
My friend and I figured this out the other day when we were extracting a Cinelli bar from a Nitto stem.
The bolt goes through the stem with the nuts and washers in the middle... back the nuts away from each other and this will spread the stem just a little and hold it that way while you are installing the bars.
My friend and I figured this out the other day when we were extracting a Cinelli bar from a Nitto stem.
#21
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From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
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All you need is a long m5 bolt with two nuts, and perhaps a few matching washers to make a stem spreader.
The bolt goes through the stem with the nuts and washers in the middle... back the nuts away from each other and this will spread the stem just a little and hold it that way while you are installing the bars.
My friend and I figured this out the other day when we were extracting a Cinelli bar from a Nitto stem.
The bolt goes through the stem with the nuts and washers in the middle... back the nuts away from each other and this will spread the stem just a little and hold it that way while you are installing the bars.
My friend and I figured this out the other day when we were extracting a Cinelli bar from a Nitto stem.
#22
I'm trying to envision how you would cram all of that hardware into a space no wider than 3/16".
Last edited by Grand Bois; 09-08-10 at 09:12 AM.
#23
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#25




