Don't cut down Nitto Albatross bars if you plan to use bar end shifters.
09-11-10, 03:41 PM
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Don't cut down Nitto Albatross bars if you plan to use bar end shifters.
Albatross bars seem to be overly long in the grip area, so I decided to cut mine down 1 1/2 ".
The bars cost big bucks because they're heat treated thinwall aluminum and bar end shifters will fit. I don't know of any other 7/8" aluminum bar that can take bar end shifters. I learned this morning that they are only thin walled for about 2" from the end. My Simplex shifters would not go in. I spent the whole morning making them fit by using a die grinder on the bars and trimming the shifters. I wouldn't have had the problem if I had bought the steel version, but it just didn't seem right to put steel bars on a Reynolds 531-framed bike.
The bars cost big bucks because they're heat treated thinwall aluminum and bar end shifters will fit. I don't know of any other 7/8" aluminum bar that can take bar end shifters. I learned this morning that they are only thin walled for about 2" from the end. My Simplex shifters would not go in. I spent the whole morning making them fit by using a die grinder on the bars and trimming the shifters. I wouldn't have had the problem if I had bought the steel version, but it just didn't seem right to put steel bars on a Reynolds 531-framed bike.
09-11-10, 03:57 PM
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I learned that by buying a pair on eBay that had already been trimmed. Fortunately, they were less than retail.
Neal
Neal
09-11-10, 06:54 PM
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I'll keep it in mind, Thanks!
Cheers
Cheers
09-12-10, 04:33 PM
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As I promised:
The Velo Orange grips work well for this. The cable is held secure with filament tape and then the grip is glued on.
This has nothing to do with the handlebars, but I like the shot. The shifting is as good as it gets with the Hyperglide 7 speed freewheel, Super LJ 6000 derailer with Bullseye pulleys and SRAM chain.
This is a bad shot of the bike:
The paint is in poor condition and the chrome on the fork is getting ready to fail, but it's such a great ride that I gave it only the best of French parts. The hubs are Mavic 501 and the rims are Mavic MA. The headset is a Stronglight A-9. The brakes are the original Mafac Competitions and the seatpost is a late Simplex.
The Velo Orange grips work well for this. The cable is held secure with filament tape and then the grip is glued on.
This has nothing to do with the handlebars, but I like the shot. The shifting is as good as it gets with the Hyperglide 7 speed freewheel, Super LJ 6000 derailer with Bullseye pulleys and SRAM chain.
This is a bad shot of the bike:
The paint is in poor condition and the chrome on the fork is getting ready to fail, but it's such a great ride that I gave it only the best of French parts. The hubs are Mavic 501 and the rims are Mavic MA. The headset is a Stronglight A-9. The brakes are the original Mafac Competitions and the seatpost is a late Simplex.
Last edited by Grand Bois; 09-12-10 at 04:59 PM.
09-12-10, 04:54 PM
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I'd have to keep the college kids away with baseball bats if I rode that beauty around here! 
You did very nice work, no doubt.
I think the bar ends look like a great idea for a city bike.
You did very nice work, no doubt.
I think the bar ends look like a great idea for a city bike.
09-12-10, 05:12 PM
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Bad shot or not, I love that bike!
Cheers,
Chris
Cheers,
Chris
09-12-10, 05:30 PM
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It's a bit too small for me, so it's either upright bars or drop bars with a tall stem and I don't like that look.
The stem clamp is is the old French 25 mm size and the bars are 25.4 mm, so I had to modify the stem slightly. Don't try this at home. If you do, wear a helmet.
The stem clamp is is the old French 25 mm size and the bars are 25.4 mm, so I had to modify the stem slightly. Don't try this at home. If you do, wear a helmet.
Last edited by Grand Bois; 09-12-10 at 05:34 PM.
