Ok never encountered this one before (just lucky)

This bar tape on this aluminum bar set form the 1981 is cloth tape with shellac, or who knows what Fuji used. Peeling this stuff off by hand will take days.

Quick solutions? Battery acid? These are Nitto bars , worth saving.

shellac can be removed with denatured alcohol.

Rubbing alcohol will soften the shellac.

You want to be careful with the type of alcohol you use when softening a brush that has had shellac hardened on it, or softening a shellaced surface that you want to keep nice. Alcohol with too much water in it will make the shellac haze up. If you are not trying to save the surface, it is not so important what type of alcohol you use.

Why will it take days?

There are two ways - either take a razor and go from center to end, then start peeling, or start at the finish end and just unroll. I've done it a number of times either way, and it takes all of 5 minutes. Max.

This was my experience as well. Unless someone got sloppy putting it on, this should do it - and possibly a bit of alcohol on a green scrub pad to clean up the residue under the tape if the shellac was super-saturated.

I agree with the cut-and-peel advice, alcohol will leave you with a sticky and nasty mess that you still have to cut and peel. Save the alcohol for cleaning up the mostly-bare aluminum.

Worth saving? In what scenario do you ruin bars by removing tape? Is the battery acid suggestion a joke? I don't follow.

I believe you are over thinking this one. I always run a razor blade along the underside of the bars.

Try using GoofOff.

Cloth tape with shellac should peel right off and leave nothing behind. I stripped some bars last night. I didn't cut the tape, I unwound it. It may have taken all of three minutes. Stop overthinking and just do it.

I had old gummed up tape on some bars, but it wasn't complete, so I just went over it with a wire wheel on the bench grinder. All glue and residue gone in 5 minutes.

I tried the usual razor blade method, unravelling with needle nose plyers etc. This is bar tape from the Fuji factory from 1981. It is incredibly stuck on. Serious attic baked-on mummification. The brake hoods were completely melted, like dripping/gooey.

You practically have to stand on the bars to get the tape off, and then it tears off in 1 CM bits and pieces, enough to make you insane. This could be a time consumer. I may just freak out and whittle it off with a hunting knife, but I don't enjoy making accidental cuts in aluminum bars.

In that case get a gallon of denatured alcohol and a dishpan or something so that you can soak the bar. It will dissolve the shellac.

On second thought, make sure it's shellac by wetting a bit with alcohol. If it doesn't start to dissolve it may be lacquer.

How much can one say about this subject? Cut, rip, clean.

Try spraying a light mist of denatured alcohol on a section, give it 3-4 minutes, and see if that improves the removal. Gradually work up the quantity and the time it sits until you find a technique that works well.

One thing you will want to avoid is having any shellac dripping onto any other bike parts (frame, rim, brake calipers, etc.). It's a real pain to remove. (Don't ask me how I know this.)

Ok, I'll try that. I'm thinking paint remover would probably be the stuff. I am just leery about accidentally gouging aluminum bars, a slit becomes a crack... If these were crappy aluminum bars or steel, I'd probably be ripping away with a serrated edge kitchen knife...

I know its an old thread, but best one I can find. Any tips on removing shellacked tape from a frame? Bad decision. I know. But need help with removing it without destroying the powder coat underneath. Thanks!

Shellacked tape over powder coat? Have you tried just pulling it off? That's normally all that is required, at least for handlebars.

Borax solution will dissolve shellac, nearly as well as alcohol. Works best with warm or hot water, but even cold it will still dissolve shellac over time. Maybe soak some rags and wrap around the tape for a soak? Might take a few hours or more.

As always with this sort of thing, test the finish first to make sure that the borax solution doesn't eat the powder coat.

You're dealing with heavily oxidized materials here - chemically very different from what was originally present. The shellac will be a hard, insoluble, crosslinked polymer. The tape itself is likely to be brittle, so it breaks apart rather than peeling off.
A commercial paint stripper might soften up the shellac, enough to make removal easier. Scrape with a plastic blade of some sort (putty knife) if you're worried about the finish on the bars.