Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Raleigh Twenty Parts

Search
Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Raleigh Twenty Parts

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-13-11, 04:25 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
FishBiscuit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 54

Bikes: 1976 Raleigh Tourist, 1973 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh International

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Raleigh Twenty Parts

I just picked up a second Raleigh Twenty tonight, and for the most part, the bike is stock and in great condition.

One problem though:

At some point in the bike's history, someone attempted to improve the steering by replacing the nylon-bushing-and-chrome-cup setup at the top of the steerer tube with a bearing race. It seems like a good idea, in concept, but that modification has only left room for one of the nuts that holds the fork on (no room for the Raleigh headlamp bracket either- neither of which were included with the bike). This is a problem because the mere act of steering the bike will loosen the nut and compromise the bike's safety.

I'm more interested in restoring this bike to factory goodness by replacing the missing parts than I am in pimping it out with a modern headset (I find the stock setup to be adequate for the type of riding I do).

I'm interested in purchasing the missing steerer tube nut (the larger one- I imagine it's 26tpi, but not certain), the missing nylon bushing, the missing chrome cup that goes over the nylon bushing, and a Raleigh headlamp bracket.

Does anyone know where I can find these parts? I know the bracket shows up on eBay all the time, but the other parts seem to be slightly more exotic. And since I'm asking, my other Twenty is missing the seatpost L-bolt. I'd like to find a replacement for that too (a long shot, I know... I just missed one on eBay!).

Much thanks!
~Sean


Here's the bad setup:


Here's the good setup on my other bike:


And for illustrative purposes, here are the parts I need, highlighted:

Last edited by FishBiscuit; 01-13-11 at 04:34 AM. Reason: correction
FishBiscuit is offline  
Old 01-13-11, 06:56 AM
  #2  
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times in 339 Posts
As long as you have the threaded top nut, you can replace everything else with a threadless headset, like an aheadset or something. That leaves plenty of room for the clamp thing. I did this on two bikes, and still have all the bits I took off. I'll try to remember to look for them.
rhm is offline  
Old 01-13-11, 07:03 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 64
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I will have a search through to see if I still have mine as well. I would imagine that there are a fair few floating around.
Fish_man is offline  
Old 01-13-11, 09:38 AM
  #4  
www.theheadbadge.com
 
cudak888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 28,513

Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com

Mentioned: 124 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2422 Post(s)
Liked 4,395 Times in 2,092 Posts
I've got a set - not mint - but I've got a set. I might have a spare Heron bracket as well.

PM me.

-Kurt
__________________












cudak888 is offline  
Old 01-13-11, 09:56 AM
  #5  
gna
Count Orlok Member
 
gna's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,819

Bikes: Raleigh Sports, Raleigh Twenty, Raleigh Wyoming, Raleigh DL1, Schwinn Winter Bike

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 122 Post(s)
Liked 177 Times in 97 Posts
Did you post your query on the Folders forum? Some of the folks over there modify their Twenties, so they probably have spare bits laying around.

Not to hijack, but I'm missing the machine screw that threads into the braze on to hold the chainguard from one of my Twenties...
gna is offline  
Old 01-13-11, 07:29 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
FishBiscuit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 54

Bikes: 1976 Raleigh Tourist, 1973 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh International

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by rhm
As long as you have the threaded top nut, you can replace everything else with a threadless headset, like an aheadset or something. That leaves plenty of room for the clamp thing. I did this on two bikes, and still have all the bits I took off. I'll try to remember to look for them.
I'd looked into a modern threadless headset as a solution, but if I were to replace those old bearing races with a threadless headset, what's to keep that top nut from unscrewing without the other nut? That's the problem I'm having now, and from what I can tell, the setup that's on the bike right now should be about the same as an Aheadset, only much crappier.

I suppose, I could put a threaded top race on there, from a different Raleigh (if they're the same size tube), with a washer, and that would solve my problem of the fork coming loose in the meantime.


EDIT: No, this won't work, since the threads on the tube don't go down far enough. But I might still be able to use a threaded race in the meantime in place of the missing nut.

I just took apart my front end, and it turns out that the 'missing' chrome cap (the one that goes over the nylon bushing) is actually what is sitting on top of the race in my photo! I don't think it can be reused for it's original purpose though, because it's pretty badly distorted from being misued.


I'm willing to explore the route of a modern headset, but I'd prefer keep it stock, since I know that setup works fine for me. I also think the bike is missing a bit of it's Raleighness without the Raleigh heron bracket on there.

Last edited by FishBiscuit; 01-13-11 at 07:52 PM. Reason: update
FishBiscuit is offline  
Old 01-13-11, 11:51 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
FishBiscuit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 54

Bikes: 1976 Raleigh Tourist, 1973 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh International

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by gna
Not to hijack, but I'm missing the machine screw that threads into the braze on to hold the chainguard from one of my Twenties...
I'm missing one of those two. I picked up a bolt of a diameter narrower than to the hole, a couple of washers, and a couple of nuts from Home Depot, and used that to hold on the chainguard. Works so far.
FishBiscuit is offline  
Old 01-14-11, 12:31 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
FishBiscuit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 54

Bikes: 1976 Raleigh Tourist, 1973 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh International

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by cudak888
I've got a set - not mint - but I've got a set. I might have a spare Heron bracket as well.

PM me.

-Kurt
Thanks Kurt,

I tried to PM you, but without 50 posts under my belt, I'm not allowed to. I attempted to send you an email, but I'm not sure if it made it to you or not.
FishBiscuit is offline  
Old 01-14-11, 10:04 AM
  #9  
gna
Count Orlok Member
 
gna's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,819

Bikes: Raleigh Sports, Raleigh Twenty, Raleigh Wyoming, Raleigh DL1, Schwinn Winter Bike

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 122 Post(s)
Liked 177 Times in 97 Posts
Originally Posted by FishBiscuit
I'm missing one of those two. I picked up a bolt of a diameter narrower than to the hole, a couple of washers, and a couple of nuts from Home Depot, and used that to hold on the chainguard. Works so far.
Me too. One of these days I'll just tap it out, probably.

Originally Posted by FishBiscuit
Thanks Kurt,

I tried to PM you, but without 50 posts under my belt, I'm not allowed to. I attempted to send you an email, but I'm not sure if it made it to you or not.
Just keep posting, or go to introductions and post welcome messages to new people until you're above 50.
gna is offline  
Old 01-14-11, 10:20 AM
  #10  
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times in 339 Posts
Originally Posted by FishBiscuit
I'd looked into a modern threadless headset as a solution, but if I were to replace those old bearing races with a threadless headset, what's to keep that top nut from unscrewing without the other nut? That's the problem I'm having now, and from what I can tell, the setup that's on the bike right now should be about the same as an Aheadset, only much crappier.
The Raleigh Twenty headset is basically a modern version of the old 'head-clip' headset, like this Chater-Lea one on Velobase:


You loosen the QR; adjust the top nut until the headset feels right; now tighten the QR. This locks the adjustment. Now tighten the top nut against the QR clip, and the whole thing is set. Just don't loosen the QR! Do you actually fold your Twenty? If not, this won't be a problem.

I'll try to remember to take a photo of the headset on my Twenty, which is a combination of Aheadset parts with original Raleigh bits.
rhm is offline  
Old 01-14-11, 08:25 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
FishBiscuit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 54

Bikes: 1976 Raleigh Tourist, 1973 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh International

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by rhm
Now tighten the top nut against the QR clip, and the whole thing is set. Just don't loosen the QR! Do you actually fold your Twenty? If not, this won't be a problem.
My main motivator for getting a folding bike is the ability to fold it so that it'll fit into the trunk of my car. For it to fit completely, I do have to turn the bars parallel to the wheel, which requires me to loosen the QR clamp. Since I don't have the QR for the seatpost on one of the Twenties, I already need to carry a pair of wrenches- one more wrench in the car wouldn't hurt I guess.
FishBiscuit is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
spin1moretime
Classic & Vintage
7
02-22-17 08:13 PM
peugeot.ash
Bicycle Mechanics
19
03-03-16 07:47 PM
flammenwurfer
Classic & Vintage
12
03-30-11 08:18 PM
FishBiscuit
Folding Bikes
6
01-25-11 08:53 PM
andy_is_me
Folding Bikes
43
11-07-10 06:25 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.