How can wider-lower psi tires REALLY be that fast?
#51
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The truth is if you feel faster and less fatigued riding 650BX42's that's your reality. So ride them. Let others debate it online and rack up the miles/KMs.
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Maybe the bicycle industry hasn't done this kind of anlysis... but rest assured that auto and aircraft designers have. And the physics all apply to bikes too.
This thread reminds me of one that I read a couple of years ago in which a guy was wondering why he couldn't keep up with the roadies on his loaded mountain bike. The debate turned to tires... wide vs. narrow... and I had to chime in. I have deleted some of the thread specific information, so pardon me if the post seems a little schizophrenic in places:
This thread reminds me of one that I read a couple of years ago in which a guy was wondering why he couldn't keep up with the roadies on his loaded mountain bike. The debate turned to tires... wide vs. narrow... and I had to chime in. I have deleted some of the thread specific information, so pardon me if the post seems a little schizophrenic in places:
Aside to the aside, can you give an opinion of the Diagonale rims? Did they last for you, and would you rate them 'clyde-worthy'? I like the look and the price, but are these rims ready for a wookie on a brevet? thanks.
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My guess, since you aren't offering any real data either, is that going from a 23 mm diameter to 25 or 27 mm tire isn't going to change wind resistance by any significant amount. The increase in cross-sectional area is miniscule when compared to the remaining bike and human on it. In a peloton, I'll guarantee it makes absolutely no difference.
Rotational mass only matters under acceleration. So if you are doing a lot of climbing, heavier tires could pose a penalty. On the flats, not a chance.
Bottom line, it is all speculation without real data.
Rotational mass only matters under acceleration. So if you are doing a lot of climbing, heavier tires could pose a penalty. On the flats, not a chance.
Bottom line, it is all speculation without real data.
One observation: I've ridden 650x35b's and 700x35c's (SOMA B-lines and Paselas, respectively) on almost identical bikes. THe 650's seem to accelerate better, and definitely feel lighter, even tho' the weight is very similar. Could the difference in diameter be coming into play? Smaller dia = lighter "effective wieght" or something? Just more fodder for the arguments. ;-)
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The 650b has a slightly smaller diameter so even though the overall wheel weight is similar, the 650b puts much of the weight closer to the hub. Closer to the hub means less inertia to overcome. Less inertia to overcome means quicker acceleration and that "light" feel.
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Next time my Babys need a new pair of shoes what am I going to get? - Fat, Skinny, Clenchy or Gluey - Platform or Steletoes - Chinese, Italian, or Japanese - Oh well - Maybe Payless - One things for sure - I often feel guilty with what my tires have to endure - Great discussion....
#57
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I believe bigger tires at lower pressures will help reduce the stress on the rims as well. I have used Panaracer Ruffy Tuffys (28mm) and Jack Brown Blue labels (effectively 35mm). I enjoyed riding on both. So, I'm no expert, but nothing leads me to believe these rims wouldn't be fine for a clyde. I would recommend the 36h version if you're on the heavier side. I have 36h in the rear and 32h in the front because the Shimano 3N-80 was only available in 32h.
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I think the reason narrow tires ride better is that they had more supple sidewalls. Until recently, it wasn't possible to make a wide tire with a supple sidewall. But it is now. Now that it's possible, people are saying they're the bee's knees.
I'm about to try some 32mm Paselas. The sidewalls are very thin. If I could justify spending on the Grand Bois tires, I'm sure I'd love them, but the Pasela is still a darned nice tire.
I'm about to try some 32mm Paselas. The sidewalls are very thin. If I could justify spending on the Grand Bois tires, I'm sure I'd love them, but the Pasela is still a darned nice tire.
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And: in racing, reliability is at least as important as speed. Fast guys whose stuff breaks don't finish and don't win.
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I also remember that on trucks tire width was more realtted to load stability and speed of travel rather than friction and resistance...
I really don't know how this fits into the article, but the subject deserves more reading and research...
I personally use a wider raod bike tire (34mm) at as high a preassure as I can (85psi) and am satisfied...
Last edited by zandoval; 02-28-11 at 10:07 PM.
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But square profile tires (as on cars and trucks) behave differently than round profile tires (as on bicycles, motorcycles and airplanes). Square profile tires' contact patch probably doesn't get much wider when pressure is reduced, but it does increase almost linearly with reduced pressure on a round profile tire. This is my intuition, not from any study, so I could easily be wrong.
So it could be that the above applies only to square profile tires.
I don't really know.
So it could be that the above applies only to square profile tires.
I don't really know.
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Absolutely - The thing here is that this needs more research - Most of the riders I have talked to through the years have said higher pressures are better - And there is a little data backing that up - But certainly there is more data out there - It could be this is a closely guarded secrete... Should we hire a spook???
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And with new tire innovations, old data might no longer be valid.
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But square profile tires (as on cars and trucks) behave differently than round profile tires (as on bicycles, motorcycles and airplanes). Square profile tires' contact patch probably doesn't get much wider when pressure is reduced, but it does increase almost linearly with reduced pressure on a round profile tire. This is my intuition, not from any study, so I could easily be wrong.
So it could be that the above applies only to square profile tires.
I don't really know.
So it could be that the above applies only to square profile tires.
I don't really know.
#66
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#67
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OMG... guys... please!
Did you skip over post #33 in this thread?? Read it slowly... digest it... and you'll understand more about tires than most people do.
This thread contains so many erroneous statements about tire construction and performance... then they're backed up with anecdotal evidence and conjecture.
I've spent my entire engineering career in the aerospace arena, and over the last 30 years I've picked up a few things. Most of the tire stuff I learned during the 8 years that I spent sharing an office with an aerospace engineer whose entire job revolved around the design and modification of aircraft landing gear and tires. Even though I specialize in RADAR and electronics, I learned a ton from him about tires and suspension.
That given... there have been a couple of things in this thread that drive me crazy:
1) People seem to think that no research exists about the physics of tires and rolling surfaces. C'mon... really??
So drag racing rigs have tires that just magically hold together and resist flying apart as they accelerate from 0 to 300 MPH in under 4.5 seconds? And airplanes land every day on tires that simultaneously support the impact of a descending airplane and almost instantly go from dead still to rolling at 200 MPH. Trust me... there's a ton of research data out there that documents the way that tires work. And trust me... the physics applies to bicycles too. No exceptions. Bicycles are just a little slower than airplanes or top fuel dragsters.
2) There is no such thing as a "square profile" tire. All tires are round inside and out. All of them. The thing that makes the tire look square is the way that the tread is bonded to the casing. The tread is not of uniform thickness across the tire. It is thicker at the edges and thinnest in the center. This gives the tire the illusion of being square... but the casing is round as can be when it is inflated. Don't believe me? Look at the inside of any auto tire. Is it square in there? Of course not... it's round. And try over inflating any auto tire. Where does it wear out first? The center maybe? That's because all tires act the same when you add or release pressure. Yep... that tread may change it a little, but it's still gonna act like a tire.
So whether you're going 17 MPH or 170 MPH... you're going to roll the same. Well... nearly the same.
Ride on, guys.
Did you skip over post #33 in this thread?? Read it slowly... digest it... and you'll understand more about tires than most people do.
This thread contains so many erroneous statements about tire construction and performance... then they're backed up with anecdotal evidence and conjecture.
I've spent my entire engineering career in the aerospace arena, and over the last 30 years I've picked up a few things. Most of the tire stuff I learned during the 8 years that I spent sharing an office with an aerospace engineer whose entire job revolved around the design and modification of aircraft landing gear and tires. Even though I specialize in RADAR and electronics, I learned a ton from him about tires and suspension.
That given... there have been a couple of things in this thread that drive me crazy:
1) People seem to think that no research exists about the physics of tires and rolling surfaces. C'mon... really??
So drag racing rigs have tires that just magically hold together and resist flying apart as they accelerate from 0 to 300 MPH in under 4.5 seconds? And airplanes land every day on tires that simultaneously support the impact of a descending airplane and almost instantly go from dead still to rolling at 200 MPH. Trust me... there's a ton of research data out there that documents the way that tires work. And trust me... the physics applies to bicycles too. No exceptions. Bicycles are just a little slower than airplanes or top fuel dragsters.
2) There is no such thing as a "square profile" tire. All tires are round inside and out. All of them. The thing that makes the tire look square is the way that the tread is bonded to the casing. The tread is not of uniform thickness across the tire. It is thicker at the edges and thinnest in the center. This gives the tire the illusion of being square... but the casing is round as can be when it is inflated. Don't believe me? Look at the inside of any auto tire. Is it square in there? Of course not... it's round. And try over inflating any auto tire. Where does it wear out first? The center maybe? That's because all tires act the same when you add or release pressure. Yep... that tread may change it a little, but it's still gonna act like a tire.
So whether you're going 17 MPH or 170 MPH... you're going to roll the same. Well... nearly the same.
Ride on, guys.
#68
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Thanks for weighing in, hydrated. As I said, I don't know, and I've tried to preface my conjecture by stating that it is mere conjecture. I'm happy to learn new stuff.
I'm sure there has been tons of research into auto and airplane tires. In fact, there is research in the bike tire industry, too. But I don't know where to read about it.
I'm sure there has been tons of research into auto and airplane tires. In fact, there is research in the bike tire industry, too. But I don't know where to read about it.
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This is still a very interesting thread to me - I don't have a real use for it cause I ride an older not to special entry if at all level bike - But the knowledge is fun - I personally know what tire and pressure I like - I decided this by my riding abilities and equipment - And of course limitations on money - I do like the bantering of knowledge and evidence of reasonable opinions by the faint vapor trails of burning gray matter they leave...
My favorite tire - Kneda K35 at about 85 psi ($10.00) - On a smooth surface that ridge down the middle really works...
My favorite tire - Kneda K35 at about 85 psi ($10.00) - On a smooth surface that ridge down the middle really works...
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Originally Posted by Hydrated
If we could find 2 inch wide tires running at 140PSI we'd be in business. They wouldn't accelerate for crap, but you could push those babies at speed all day long!
So to sum it all up:
It's all about the weight and tires on your bike. The rotating weight prevents you from accelerating to catch onto the group... and then those fat low pressure tires suck your tanks dry trying to keep up at speed. And that heavy mountain bike frame creates big contact patches to suck away even more energy.
:
If we could find 2 inch wide tires running at 140PSI we'd be in business. They wouldn't accelerate for crap, but you could push those babies at speed all day long!
So to sum it all up:
It's all about the weight and tires on your bike. The rotating weight prevents you from accelerating to catch onto the group... and then those fat low pressure tires suck your tanks dry trying to keep up at speed. And that heavy mountain bike frame creates big contact patches to suck away even more energy.
:
For instance what type of tire is fastest on a gravel road & why?
Which tire is fastest on a beat-up urban road?
Which one for a day of mixed surfaces?
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I would reiterate what some have already said, rider fatigue is as likely a factor in the real world as is rolling resistance of the tire. Sometimes we want to focus on just the hardware because it is ammeanble to simple tests and then gross generalizations are drawn from the test data. Human factors are rarely that simple. Remember, it is the rider that makes the bike go fast, not the tire. Ah, but I'm sure you knew all that.
Last edited by Mike Mills; 03-08-11 at 08:27 PM.
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....The TDF would be run on 38's.
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