Good Axles?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Rhode Island (an obscure suburb of Connecticut)
Posts: 5,630
Bikes: one of each
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
12 Posts
Good Axles?
Bare with me, I know I'm asking a lot of really basic questions lately, but I'm getting some really good basic answers and I like those.
I just stuck a 7 speed freewheel on my old Raleigh. Don't really need 7 speeds but it's got the right ratios and it's a Hyperglide and that makes me happy. Anyway, I ended up adding a 2mm spacer to get that last gear in and there's only a teeny bit of axle left for the dropout. To make things really silly, I was thinking, rather than go to all the trouble of redishing this wheel (again) why don't I just stick another 2mm spacer on the left side (for a total of 132mm)?
Now I need an axle, I should probably get an axle either way (redish or just respace). I've got one that's long enough from a cheap chinese MTB but it's nutted. Maybe I should just stick it in there and ride it till something goes wrong or maybe I should bring it up here and get some good learning in.
I've heard that hollow axles for quick release skewers are stronger but I heard it from a less than reliable source and with no real explanation. Are QR axles made from better steel?
How much difference is there between this Campy axle I have (too short, of course) and this dumb chinese axle is there really?
Thanks for being patient with me.
I just stuck a 7 speed freewheel on my old Raleigh. Don't really need 7 speeds but it's got the right ratios and it's a Hyperglide and that makes me happy. Anyway, I ended up adding a 2mm spacer to get that last gear in and there's only a teeny bit of axle left for the dropout. To make things really silly, I was thinking, rather than go to all the trouble of redishing this wheel (again) why don't I just stick another 2mm spacer on the left side (for a total of 132mm)?
Now I need an axle, I should probably get an axle either way (redish or just respace). I've got one that's long enough from a cheap chinese MTB but it's nutted. Maybe I should just stick it in there and ride it till something goes wrong or maybe I should bring it up here and get some good learning in.
I've heard that hollow axles for quick release skewers are stronger but I heard it from a less than reliable source and with no real explanation. Are QR axles made from better steel?
How much difference is there between this Campy axle I have (too short, of course) and this dumb chinese axle is there really?
Thanks for being patient with me.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Washington
Posts: 472
Bikes: Serotta Davis Phinney, 1992 Serotta T Max,1984 Specialized Allez, Olmo, 1974 Strawberry,Redline bmx, ect.,
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Take te axle out and redo the spacing to the drive side with thinner lock nut to the non drive side and you should have enough space for the 7 speed freewheel. 2mm on the drive is nothing to worry about for a well maintained wheel. QR axle if not properly adjusted will break. most QR axles are cromoly or heat treated and solid axles aren't, although wheels manufacturing does make a solid cromoly axle if needed.