Drillium How-To Guide Part One (Stripping Anodizing)
 

Well! Since we're snowed in, the base is closed and I have a rare day off (and because a few BF members have asked), I decided to finally chronicle my process for Drillium work: stripping, drilling and polishing. I'll relate these in three separate posts.

*** Cross References to the other two supporting threads:

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...g-sanding.html

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...irty-deed.html

STRIPPING:

Back in the day I used to tear up my fingers using sandpaper, then I found out about Easy-Off. Yeah. Then I found this:

Jestco Products Buffing Supply - Anodize remover - 16 oz. (Powered by CubeCart)

No more missing fingerprints and no more messy - and ultimately expensive - Easy-Off.

Let's take a look at the stripping process with some visual aids included:

Here's what you need: a PLASTIC container deep enough to fully submerge your part, Jestco remover, warm/lukewarm water, stirrer and something to pull the part out after it's stripped (don't use your bare hands - this stuff is caustic). Oh, and your part(s), too. A measuring spoon would be useful if you aren't good at guessing the correct ratio of stripper to water; Jestco recommends 4 tablespoons to 1 gallon of water. Personally, I eyeball it.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8012/7...d1dc4de9_b.jpg

Pour the remover (it comes in a granular form) into your container, stir until dissolved. You will end up with a cloudy solution, like this:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8160/7...80fd2c66_b.jpg

Once all the granules have dissolved, you're ready to put your parts in. Note in the picture you can see the parts through the solution - but not for long. Once the Jestco remover goes to work in earnest, it'll be bubbling away like mad - don't breathe the fumes, although you don't need the same sort of ventilation for, say, painting or something like that. I've done this in my kitchen, but today used the garage:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7270/7...9f46d5c2_b.jpg

This is what some parts look like when removed:

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5470/7...a168781f_b.jpg

Depending on the makeup of the alloy, the part will either have a blackish or whitish color. The best way to show this is the following picture. Campagnolo has obviously used a different type of alloy on the moveable band than on the main body of this front derailleur clamp:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8019/7...5e3f8ee8_b.jpg

Usually after 5 to 10 minutes - these levers were in for about 5 minutes - remove the part(s). Using dishwashing detergent (of Softsoap or similar, which is what I use) and very fine steel wool, rinse the parts under warm/lukewarm water. It will remove all traces of the blackish/whitish film and your stripped parts will look like this:

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5238/7...d6ca46b3_b.jpg

One pair of Campy Ergo brake levers, completely stripped and ready for cleanup filing/sanding - and Drillium!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8003/7...312d13f5_b.jpg

I hope this tutorial helps some of you out there - especially those that want to try this for their first time. For those of you who strip stuff on a regular basis with the Easy-Off method, you might want to try this. If nothing else, it certainly is a lot less messy of a process.

PART TWO - Filing and Sanding - coming soon!

DD

DD - How do you dispose of the spent Jestco remover ? Do you have to neutralize it with a base like you do with OA?

Where should I buy the Jetsco powder?

I pour it outside where there's moss on my driveway - kills it immediately!

Seriously.

Sometimes I pour it down the drain once it's done - diluting it by running the faucet for a minute or so after doing so.

DD

You can order it right off the website using the link provided. One bottle will strip 50-60 pieces, easily.

DD

Thanks for these threads, I will be giving it a try eventually.

Uh. . . I really am slow today. I completely missed that link. Thanks!

Pure caustic works just as well, dissolved in water, which I suspect is the main ingredient in this stuff.

^ I thought caustic was an adjective. To what ingredient are you referring?

Thiese threads will be followed! Is drillium the final step or is there a finsh applied?

can that stuff touch your skin or do you need to wear some sort of glove?

We call it lye in the USA.

10-4

It can touch your skin without boring a hole straight through, but you wouldn't want it on for long. In the beginning, I used to pluck out my parts barehanded, but could feel a little sting. I use tongs now, or a hemostat.

Once the part is rinsed, handling while using the steel wool/soap is not a problem.

Yes, there will be follow-ups to this, but I think I'll be doing them as their own threads. Second installment will be filing/sanding/drilling and the last will be polishing.

Although maybe Keith can do the polishing one - I usually don't go too crazy with the polish side of things. I want my finished parts a little understated, as most drillium I do is intended to be used.

DD

I don't recommend dumping caustics or any chemicals on the ground or down the drain. Contact your local waste hauler and see if they have a Household Hazardous Waste collection program.

What about drain cleaner, think this is pretty similar stuff?

I was out on that base (Whidbey) in '88, gutting parts out of a P-3. One of the guys out there invited me Salmon fishing. Wish I'd have accepted.

That place is beautiful.

Thanks for the tutorial. Getting ready to do an old Colnago Panto stem. It's pretty rough.

Absolutely.

Finally drillium dude is revealing his secrets. I have a weight weenie project right now and cant wait to start drilling. I cant afford ti parts, so I must turn to the drill. Cant wait for part 2.

Does one buy at an Ironmonger's, as well? I recall several nomenclature discrepencies between the UK and USA for common chemical names. We seem to use the more archaic terminology (surprisingly) in the States. E.g. "Muriatic Acid" and "Liver of Sulfur", come to mind. Of course, we wouldn't be able to find "washing-up Soda" in our hardware stores as you can in your ironmongeries.....

Awesome! I've been wanting to try drillium, and a few days ago I started to drill out an old rusty Schwinn derailleur for practice :thumb:. This is perfect timing for this how-to guide to appear. Thanks, Drillium Dude!

DD, what do you advise to do when there are irremovable steel parts paired with the anodizing?

-Kurt

Kurt, they don't seem to be a problem - mainly, I believe, because the parts only stay in the solution for 5-10 minutes. After a thorough rinse and dry, they've always been okay. I've done pedals with the races left in, Super Record rear derailleurs with the steel pivot caps and front derailleurs with steel pivot pins. No issues at all.

I do, however, disassemble the components as far as they can go. It's easier to ensure all the anodizing is completely removed with this method.

DD

Small world - I enlisted in the Navy in 1988! And we're still patrolling with P-3s...

Go figure.

You ever get back up here, you'll have to link up with a buddy of mine; he's a big fisherman. In fact, he writes a weekly column on fishing in the Northwest Navigator, the region's military newspaper.

DD

**EDIT** This was in response to Satbuilder's post from earlier today...I messed up and forgot to quote.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd (Post 12269593)

^ I thought caustic was an adjective. To what ingredient are you referring?

---

Also known as caustic soda, it's NaOH, or sodium hydroxide. We buy it in 5kg bottles in the lab. Awesome. I will just bring some home with me and see how that works...

If in fact the main ingredient in Jetsco is NaOH, then they're making a killing on marketing. NaOH costs less than bottled water, weight for weight.