Well, I think it's high-time I finished this series - don't you?

*** Cross References to the other two supporting threads:

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...anodizing.html

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...g-sanding.html

DRILLING:

I use a muti-speed Dremel, currently a model 300. I've tried singe-speed versions and left myself with lots of clean-up after drill bits wandered on me at high RPM! It's nice - and imperative if you're just starting out - to have low speed for more control. Higher speed is great for boring straight through quickly and easily, however, the layout/pilot hole work is best done at low speed.

So...

A phrase I've heard since day one in the Navy applies here: "Pre-Prior-Planning Prevents Piss-Poor Performance" (referred to as the 7 P's). After all, you can't put material back once it's been removed, right?

So, I take a Sharpie and experiment with different ideas before deciding upon a pattern and then drawing it directly onto the part in question. Today we're doing a pair of Campagnolo gear levers to add a further little bit of bling to Shnibop's Colnago Super.

Pattern drawn and ready for drilling:



Next, we simply chuck in a fairly small-diameter drill bit (I use a 3/64) at low speed to drill our pilot holes for the larger diameter drill bits at high speed. Then, simply drill a series of pilot holes into the stock you're using - I only drill in about 5mm or so - I've broken off drill bits here and there and it's no picnic getting them out, let me tell you!

Pilot holes drilled:



Now, I simply go up a couple drill bit sizes and bore completely through with each successive size. Yeah, a drill press would do this in one go - and I'd have the option of larger drill bits, too - but where's the fun in that?

Successive drillings completely through:





Note how I get the drillings as close as I can to each other; in this case, it's to ensure I don't have too much material left over that I'll have to get rid of using my "Dremel as router" technique.

We're almost ready to finish the rough opening:



Okay, now we have our basic cut-out ready for a rough-finish. How do we get that extra crap out of there?

On to Post #2 for the answer

DD

Now it's on to the tricky bit: removing the excess material left over after our conventional drilling. Dremel chucks only go up to 1/8 bits - so there will be a bit left over no matter how close we get the holes to each other.

What I do is use either the 7/64 or 1/8 bit as a router bit. I come in from the backside of the component and look directly down on it - I mean, my right hand is against my chest with the Dremel pointing upward. Yeah, I use safety goggles most times

There are instances - rear derailleur outer plates, for instance - where this technique of coming in from the back will not work. So my recommendation is to practice on stuff like this before trying the router technique from the front (simply put, we can see more of what's going on when coming from the back).

I'm not going to BS any of you: this is the part that takes either the most practice or the most skill (I dunno which it is in my case - but I've done a lot of drillium like this, so that might be a clue). Low speed is your friend here

Here's what it looks like:



Now, having stated the importance of low speed, for the larger areas of remaining alloy, a higher speed will cut faster and more cleanly. However, try out varying speeds by starting out slowly and working up to faster speeds. We want to use the larger diameter drill bits as we'll be putting some sideways pressure on the bit while using it as a router.

Another shot as we get close to the final rough opening:



Pay close attention to ensuring you have the drill bit as close to 90 degrees as possible - you want as smooth a cut on the backside as you do the front. Note the smaller drill bit in the last photo; as we have the basic shape routed out, the larger bit is no longer needed for the fine-tuning we're doing at this stage. With so little material left, we don't need any real sideways pressure on the drill bit, either. Extreme caution is called for at this stage - we're at the "point of no return". Any accidental removal of material here is going to require a rethink and a correction - of course, that means we'll have to figure out how to find a fix by taking out more material.

Here's what they look like after putting down the Dremel:



The white thing at the bottom right is an old sock - these parts get hot! I had to use this today as a glove as I can't figure out what happened to my normal drilling gloves

The remainder of the process is pretty simple: filing and sanding as pointed out in the second segment (perhaps I should link them all here?). I'm not going into polishing as there are others here with much better techniques - and more importantly, results - than I've ever been able to accomplish.

Filing:



I use a rough file for most areas as I normally use an enamel paint in the cutouts. The rough finish helps to give the paint something to hold on to.

Finished:



I'll leave it to the new owner to decide how polished he wants them - and what infill color he desires.

Okay - everybody happy? Good deal!

Class dismissed

DD

I am suprised you have not invested in a drill press and an XY jig for it.
good router bits work well in aluminum if you dont take off too much material at once.

Im going to jig up my campy seatpost and take a hand at my router table, 2kw is plenty powerful if I dont muck it up.

Thanks for the tutorial! It would be great if you could link to these other DD guides you speak of, as they must have been before my time (on the forums, that is.)

Honestly, I don't feel anywhere near in control when using a drill press than when I am using the Dremel. The only time I've ever used a drill press and discovered it worked better and faster for me was doing a set of chainrings. It also allowed me to drill the holes a little bit bigger.

I also find I can't get right down onto the part - I'm seeing it at maybe a 45 degree angle and I don't know...maybe it's just me, but that just doesn't work for me. I'm funny like that, I suppose

I'm interested in seeing what you come up with regarding your Campy seatpost; you'll share the results with us, won't you?

DD

Since a few people have asked over the last few days, here are the links to Parts 1 and 2.

Link to the "Stripping Anodizing" thread:

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...%29?highlight=

Link to the "Filing and Sanding" thread:

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...%29?highlight=

DD

*** UPDATED PHOTOS ADDED TO BOTH STRINGS ***

You're welcome

See post 6 for the links to the old threads.

DD

EDIT: Cool, this was post #2345

You are a true craftsman, very nice work .

+1 . I don't think just anyone could get the same exceptional results.

Very impressive!

Really enjoyed reading and viewing the pictures. Thanks!

Jeff, is there a particular kind of drill bit (material/hardness/brand) that you've found is best? I imagine you buy a bunch at a time? I don't have much metal working experience but I have broken several bits in the past drilling into aluminum.

I'm going to try my hand at this sometime soon.

Sofia, I've had pretty good results with Dremel's drill bit kits. Also have used Irwin brand bits - they supposedly can be used for steel, so that's a plus.

Normally I would break drill bits when trying to push down and through with a smaller bit with too little speed, too much pressure - and just a little bit too much of an angle, too. The hardest part I've ever had to drill has been pedal cages: the Dural of the Superleggeri or Super Record pedal cages is a harder, longer-wearing type of aluminum and is a real pain to drill through with the Dremel. I suppose they'd be the perfect reason for me to finally get a drill press!

Pilot holes followed by a bigger drill bit has worked out best for me. I sometimes have to get creative (brake lever blades, for instance) so that the bit doesn't punch through and go into the metal on the other side. I'll be showing how I do that, along with a chainring-drilling exercise as well.

Oh, and I usually have about 3 or 4 small sets of Dremel drill bits around at any given time. They run about $9 a set.

DD

Thanks you guys/gals for all the positive comments so far; I really hope one or two of you try your hand at this. It really is fun and - for me - a form of relaxation if you can believe that

DD

Jeff, as always highly informative!

May I show the folks the Campy levers you did for my Zullo in this thread?

They are so nice and I do get lots of positive comments.

Now that I know you do this, well, the way that you do this, I am even more impressed!!

I would make jigs and use a mill, personally.

Seems like pics I've seen of old drillium set-ups involved bucks/jigs that held the odd shaped parts and had openings/slots/patterns to guide the drills.

You might also consider investing in a Fordham tool!

Thanks, Grady - and sure, post a pic of them. They went through the exact same process as above, after all

DD

I too have seen pics of the jigs - but I'd have to make jigs for every different version of what I do. I've done four or five different drilling/milling patterns just on the gear levers. I don't even know how many different versions of brake levers I've done.

In the end, though, I really enjoy doing it this way. I guess if I had jigs and could just bang them out, I'd feel I was missing something. I imagine it wouldn't feel as relaxing, either; and I really mean it when I say I do this for relaxation. I probably turned out more drillium than ever in the year-and-a-half I was going through my divorce

DD

Duuuuudddde!!! I'm shocked you got this 3rd part to your "tutorial" completely finished and posted after we "talked" about it less than 24 hrs. ago. It came out fabulous as usual!! You're not only good, you're fast too. Your photos and instructions are far better than plenty of DIY books I've read.

I have a multi-speed dremel but haven't used it much. And I'm not very good at drilling, whether it's wood or metal. I would love to try this and would practice using useless component parts, but my biggest apprehension would be holding the part being drilled in my hand. I don't know if I'd be able to hold it steady enough. I envision metal going flying across the room.

Would this type of drilling work if the part was held in some type of soft-jawed vise or clamp?

And forgive me if this has been covered, but is some sort of cutting oil or lubrication necessary?

I can't wait to see the chainring drilling.

OOPS!!! Missed Posts 16 and 18 in all my excitement. Sorry.

I sure will- I saw what i want to do on drillium revival, the 70's campy seatpost, only mods to the top of it,
my bike should not have any drillium, but a little exersize on the seatpost and my road rashed campy levers I guess.

I got plenty of cheap parts to practice on!

Oh baby! I can't wait to get these puppies in the mail!

Excellent work by the way, now I know where I went wrong haha

Thanks! I already started to do a gran sport F.D., I figured I had to polish it up next where the dremel left it's mark, but I'm leaving it rough now for the enamel, thanks for the tip! Pics too follow as soon as I'm back home (I'm in the Herve region of belgium now - much too busy riding awesome roads and trails).

Thanks for the heap o' praise, dude!

Actually, after our PMs I figured out a simple enough way to get the photos of the drilling/milling in progress. I already had planned on doing those levers this past weekend, so... Anyway, it's been over a year since I promised to finish up the series with the third installment

I get your aprehension - I nicked my fingers a couple of times and got the drill bit stuck in the workshirt I was wearing a few times, too I suppose this could be done by holding the part in a vice, sure - just be careful as you remove material as the part in question could cave in on itself!

I'm going to drill the chainring after work and might be able to get the pictures/description up tonight; if not tonight, tomorrow night for sure.

DD

That's the spirit! A good stock of "practice stock" is absolutely invaluable

DD