It's finally built up after 10 weeks of slow assembly and fabricating. Converting a bike designed for 27" wheels to 650B is not so hard if the right candidate frame is chosen, but even then it's the little details that can provide challenges that you don't foresee in the planning phase.

Took it out last night for an initial shakedown and adjustments, and will be doing a 50 mile ride on Sunday for a more thorough evaluation. Can't wait! All I can conclude so far from a short 5 mile ride around the neighborhood is that it's easily the smoothest ride of my entire fleet, and I can see myself riding this thing exclusively for any kind of riding beyond my daily work commute!














Complete flickr set here.

The bike is a real frankenbike: part Japanese, part French, part Tawainese, and a mixture of new, NOS, and vintage parts:

Frameset:

• 1983-1984 63cm c-t Shogun 1500 frame/fork, modified for 650B, powdercoated

Wheelset/tires:

• Velocity Synergy rims (new)
• Shimano ultegra cassette hub (new)
• Shimano 3n-DH72 dynamo hub (new)
• Grand Bois 42mm Hetres (new)

Drivetrain:

• TA "compact double" crankset, 26/46T (used cranks, new rings)
• Huret Jubilee front der (used), Huret Duopar Eco rear der (NOS)
• Shimano XTR 12-32 8-speed cassette (used)
• Suntour Barcon shifters (used)
• Shimano XT cartridge BB (used)
• MKS GR-9 platform pedals (used)

Bars/stem:

• Belleri Rando bars (used)
• Nitto stem (used)

Brakes:

• MAFAC Criterium cantis (NOS) w/ Koolstop salmon shoes (new)
• Tektro aero levers (new)

Lighting:

• B&M Lumotec IQ cyo (new), homemade bracket
• B&M Seculite plus (new), retrofitted in a Soubitez Catalux 6 (NOS)
• Wiring routed internally through fork and frame

Other:

• Tange Levin alloy headset (used)
• SR Laprade seat post (used)
• Brooks B17 (new)
• Velo Orange Zeppelin 54mm fenders (new)
• Velo Orange "passhunter" front rack and stem decaleur (new)
• Velo Orange toe clips and straps (new)
• Velo Orange bottle cages (new)
• Ostrich front bag (new)

Also, thanks to several forum members for parts trades that helped get this thing built!

rhm: Belleri bars
RobE30: Huret Jubilee FD
JohnDThompson: Huret Duopar RD
JPTwins: Nitto stem

I'll post more detailed pictures of some of the "challenges" of this build later on...

Only thing missing now is a head badge. Should I go with the original Shogun badge or go custom? Help me decide.

Very sharp. Don't really know what else to say.

Do a custom headbadge. If you're in for a penny, you're in for a dollar.

Well done!

That's just a fantastic looking machine! It sure looks like a comfortable and nimble ride. I love the use of the brake caliper arm as a light mount. I'm afraid that's going to be yet another one of your ideas I'll steal.

I'm having a custom headbadge made for my copper Voyageur and while I haven't seen the finished product yet the sketches the artist provided look very promising. She should be wrapping it up soon and I'll report back. It was very affordable.

Bravo, Anton! Bravo!

Amazing once again. Your bikes are always a inspiration.

Very nice details.

That is one classy ride..

That's stunning, Anton! Wow, what a looker! Ride it well.

Neal

Is the lamp bracket DiaCompe or Weinmann?

Very pretty. You need to get some dirt on it!

Thanks all!

Justin, I can't claim the idea as my own-- I discovered it on this flickr set.

However, I like to think I made improvements on the concept .

Weinmann-- and indeed, dirt is in order. After all, I built this bike up specifically so I could do more dirt-road riding!

Absolutely stunning! Looking forward to seeing it!

+1 completely agree!

absofreakinlootly awesome!

That's pretty much incredible. I need to hear more about this 27" to 650b conversion...such as how much frame modification was necessary.

Magnificently done, Anton.

Super! Looks like it came right out of JP Wiegle's Flickr page Very impressed to say the least!

Cheers,
Chris

Lots of 700c to 650B conversions have been done, but 27" to 700c takes it a bit further, as the difference in wheel radius is even greater.

Technically, no modification was necessary-- any frame that takes non-canti rim brakes can be a candidate for conversion, but you just want to make sure you have sufficient clearance for fat tires, and that the BB height is reasonably high, to avoid heel strike after conversion. I settled on this frame because initial measurements suggested that 42mm Hetres would fit, and the BB was really high (288mm-- typically BBs are in the 270-280mm height range). Converting can result in the bike being anywhere from 10-25mm lower. Mine got lowered by 13mm, bringing the BB down to 175mm.

But I really wanted cantilever brakes, so for me the only critical modification was repositioning the canti studs 23mm lower, to work with 650B wheels. All the other modifications were strictly cosmetic:

- lowered the rear brake bridge 10mm to fit a fender without needing a long L-bracket.
- drilled holes with reinforcement rings for internal wiring of the dynamo wiring
- added a third set of bottle cage mounts

While at it, I had the rear triangle re-spaced to 130 to fit a modern cassette hub.

If you have a frame builder near you, you may be able to have all this done for under a couple hundred dollars. I was fortunate in that I had one-stop shopping for all the work, including the powder coating. It was done by Geekhouse, here in Boston. Marty, the owner/founder, studied under Mike Flanigan of ANT, so he has expertise both in building steel bikes and in powder coating. He has his own powder coating business within Geekhouse (Sugar coat). The powder coat on this bike is far better than the PC on my other bikes.

I'm interested in hearing your thoughts on how your Huret Duopar handles as I've heard they are phenomenal derailleurs. I have the Sachs-Huret version on a Gitane that I just purchased this winter, although I haven't had the opportunity to try it out quite yet. Apparently, the Sachs version uses steel instead of titanium pieces. I've been told that these are still some of the best wide range derailleurs made. Great for touring when you suddenly have to go for the granny gear. They will shift from the smallest to the largest rear cog in one quick easy move.

Also, thank you for not only the higher res picture archive but the build sheet as well. That is very helpful for those are are on the cusp of building their own touring/commuting machines.

Beautiful!!

Thanks for the response, Anton! I love the thought that went into the changes beyond relocating the canti studs. The dynamo wiring looks really nice in the photos, and the lowered seatstay bridge is also genius.

And awesome that you got to work with Geekhouse on the frame. I've checked out their site and some of the builds they did for NAHBS - so now the quality of the modifications makes sense.

Very jealous, great build.

Very nice indeed. I love the color.

Are you going to post a tutorial on fitting the VO Passhunter rack? I recently bought one for a Kogswell, and the fit isn't even close. I know it's common to have to bend these things to fit, but I'm curious to know how challenging yours was to fit.

That bike has fender line by which all fendered bikes should be measured.

f'n sweet

Wow, I can't love this bike enough....I absolutely LOVE the color scheme.

nice! how's that huret shift? i remember hating those things in the 80's.. but not sure if it were that one!

gorgeous though!

Gorgeous indeed. I love the color on the lug lining.

So the big question...is there room for a frame pump to fit between the fender and the seat tube? Because that is bar-none the most cool place to mount a pump.


*edit**

along the seat stay is a close second.


Anton, I'd be interested to hear what you think the most interesting parts of this build were and what little things on it you're most proud of.