I have this Norco Avanti build I'm working on. I just had to replace the BB with a cheap shimano cartridge and finally got the drive train up and running. There is a weird clunking noise coming from inside the freewheel (threaded type). When cleaning it I soaked in degreaser for a little while.

I'm trying to save as much money as possible on this build so while I can go easily buy a cheap 6spd freewheel I'd rather repair this if possible. Maybe it just need to be regreased inside? I tried getting some triflow in there before reinstalling but I guess that didn't do much.

Thanks

Freewheels can be rebuilt, but it's not easy. Even back in the day most mechanics would rather replace one than try to rebuild one.

The best course is to remove the freewheel and run some thick oil into the bearings and pawls. If it's clunking, though, it's probably toast. I'd verify that the freewheel is the problem first, though.

I'm sure they are, but I've never bothered...

I'm pretty sure. I repacked the hub and it was real smooth, but when I put the freewheel on and put the wheel on the bike there was a bit of clunking noises, then more so when I setup the drivetrain.

Maybe I'll just "splurge" on a new FW...

What is the brand of your freewheel?

Some can be re-lubed with relative ease. Others, not so easy or impossible.

Have you removed the freewheel from the hub?

As Jeff said, the common wisdom is that it's way too hard and nobody can do it.

There's been a few really good threads on this board showing that it's easy.

Choose your poison; I'm guessing the truth depends on not only which model freewheel you have, but what its life has been like.

It's a Suntour Perfect freewheel

Yes. Check with www.freewheelspa.com

It is an easy one to repair. If you want I could help you.

If you want to try yourself, remove the retaining ring (reverse threads, so do this on the hub). Flush it out. Re-grease the bearings. Oil the pawls. Reassemble.

Best of luck.

Well, maybe I should have said it's not fast. Back when I was working on bikes for money, it was accepted that taking an hour to overhaul a freewheel wasn't worth it, especially if a new freewheel cost less than half the hourly labor rate.

A Perfect freewheel can be rebuilt, but when you get the retaining ring off a zillion 1/8" ball bearings are going to go everywhere. It's best to take it apart over a dark towel so the little critters don't go skittering under the workbench. Clean thoroughly, then reassemble using bead of light grease to keep the bearings in place.

I rebuilt my Suntour New Winner Pro freewheel a couple times, just for fun. Unlike the Perfect, the NWP had a genuine cone-and-locknut bearing adjustment that made it easy to tune the clearance exactly right.

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ewheel+rebuild

Yeah... I think I'm just going to get a new freewheel...

I tried putting a tongue and groove pliers on the smallest cog to remove it, and it isn't budging (I was careful not to damage).

So I can either spend 15 bucks on a cheap chain whip and try again and possible still fail to even disassemble the thing, or I can spend $15 and get a new freewheel.

Choice is pretty obvious...

Why were you trying to remove a cog? I understand your choice to buy a new freewheel, but I think you were going about the issue in the wrong manner.

But a new FW won't "run" with the same sound as a 30 year old Perfect!

I agree, but if you don't want to throw away an old FW that could be re-conditioned for another 10,000+ miles of service, why throw it away?



They can look like new again!



Just open it up over a plastic container wider than the largest cog. Tip the container so all the balls collect on one side or in one corner, spray with WD-40, Simple Green, or concentrated Dawn dish detergent (depending on the degree of dirtiness). Swish until clean. Carefully place the balls on a paper towel, "massage" or roll until dry.

I also add a drop of quality machine oil to the pawl pivot.

I worked on a NWP for Jim Muller and it broke my Suntour Spanner Wrench!

When I've serviced the Perfects, they seem to self adjust just fine.

A few of my "Happy" freewheels after their time in the spa.

If it comes to getting a new one, ask around for an old one. Some of us have a whole box full.

Looks like I was going about it all wrong...

I will try to remove the retaining ring instead of the small cog this time

The bearing adjustment on the Perfect and Pro Compe freewheels was done using spacers. When/if you rebuild your freewheel take care to note which spacers go where and how many or you may not get good adjustment on the bearings.

Yeah. I probably have a box of corn cobs if you need one...

I buy 14/28 Suntours on ebay all the time. My standard freewheel.

Yeah okay. I pounded on that retaining ring with a punch and hammer trying to get it to turn (reverse thread I know) and it wasn't going anywhere.

If someone who offered up a free wheel has a 6spd in working order that they want to cut me a deal on let me know. I mean I can buy a new SunRace one for $14 so I wonder if it is even worth it. I put a cartridge BB in this bike so I'm not worried about loosing some of the vintage parts.

I had a free wheel that was stuck. I had to PB Blaster it and let it sit over night, put screwdriver against largest cogs and hit with a hammer in the direction that it should spin freely, and then repeat once more before I broke it free from the rust. Then I poured 10-40 motor oil(Any motor oil would work fine I'd think.) I put probably 15 miles on the bike before it started to run smoothly again. Then I PB-Blasted it again until it stopped running dark brown from the other side. Then more motor oil. It ended up quiet and pretty darn smooth. I was actually pretty darn surprised myself that it ended up being almost as smooth as my other freewheels. I say spray it out with PB, turn it on its side, and spin the cogs while very slowly pouring motor oil into the gap that lets the oil enter the prawl area. It might smooth out once it's oiled better.

While all this will work, for a while, the best way is to tear the FW apart, flush out the old crud, and grease the bearings. It also doesn't hurt to pull the cogs off and clean with some steel or bronze wool to get all the road crud off the gears.

There is a certain satisfaction when you can take this;



...and end up with this! (About 60-90 minutes of work.)



Max, try squirting WD-40, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster, etc., on the inside threads of the retaining ring.

If you decide to ditch the Perfect for the Sunrace, I'll be glad to take the Perfect off your hands for the cost of shipping and a little extra for your trouble.

Raleigh made a tool for that.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-get-it-right.
You really should try and do this job write.

DANG! The English major police are at it again!

Ok, "steel" wool, don't "steal" the wool.

I have serviced lots of freewheels, it is quite easy once you get over your apprehensions.

Last weekend I was riding one of my Paramounts when I heard a loud clunking from the rear. I had heard the same noise before but it went away quickly. I got back to my starting point while it was still making noise, and once I got home and unloaded the bike from the truck I tried to duplicate the noise when the bike was on the repair stand. No noise, of course. I removed the rear wheel and found the problem - the bearing race/cover had come loose, but not loose enough to let the bearings fall out. I tightened it with a spanner wrench and all was well again.

My first road bike since the 70's, a Giant that was given to my by a neighbor, had an annoying clunk coming from the freewheel. It was actually a cog that was slipping and making a noise with each revolution. The thing was so worn that I just replaced it with another, but that could be the source of the noise.

Nah it is definitely coming from inside the FW. I haven't ridden the bike yet, it is just on the stand so it allows me to pay close attention to what is going on.

I'll try soaking it with some loosening oil I guess and try again.