jimmuller 

The stem or the seatpost? Usually it's the seatpost that gives people fits. For the stem, loosen the locking bolt more than just a turn or two (I assume you already did) but try not to unscrew it completely. Then tap the bolt with a reasonably heavy wrench or hammer. Might want to pad it with something to avoid denting it. The idea is to drive the wedge inside down out of the split in the tube. It should loosen easily. And Liquid Wrench2 or PB-Blaster will probably work better than WD40.

Those cotter pins are not meant to come out easily and don't respond to light tapping. Ideally you use a press (https://www.bikesmithdesign.com/CotterPress/index.html). It is expensive though. SheldonBrown describes knocking them out with a big hammer but you need to support the crank arm from underneath so that the bearing race doesn't take all the stress. I've removed them that way. I most cases the pins are not re-usable. If you don't need to repack the BB, just leave them for now.

XandX2005

The stem. I just worked around the problem.

I dropped the fork down, bearings dropped all over the floor (doh! the bottoms aren't in a cage like the top), picked them up and cleaned them off. Flipped the bike over, cleaned the races with aluminum foil(worked really well). Greased up the races and dropped in the bearings. Slid the fork down the frame onto the bearings and zip tied it so it simulated pressure on the bottom bearings in the headset which I just cleaned and greased. Then cleaned and greased the top ones, with the bike still upside down. See before and after pics.


Reassembled the top part of the headset and wah-lah, done.


Now onto the crank....

auchencrow

You'll need these and a good mill file.
- It would be best if you had a good cotter tool too, but there are work-arounds.

frenchbikefan

XandX being a home bike mechanic is a lot of fun. but please for the love of all that is holly, take that bike to your local lbs and use their cotter press. Mine lets me use theirs for free.

auchencrow

FIFY

(frenchbikefan really does have a point.)

curbtender

I'm kind of enjoying this thread. It's like watching 'Dexter'. I'm sure it's all for a good reason...

XandX2005

I was about to take it down to the LBS, but I wanted to try a punch first while the opposite side of the crank arm rested against a wooden post. It ended up working great and I got both pins out, and both are very much reusable.

I found alot of sand once I got the bearing cups off. My bike practically took a crap on my finger...



But the grease did its job and caught a ton of sand.

The bearings look fine. This person must of had one hell of a stong right leg because the drive side spindle race had some decent wear on the downward stroke of the pedaling cycle.

Haven't assembled it yet, but I will tomorrow. Should work ok for the time being.

I'm debating painting it and getting all new components. As of right now though, I think I'll just get it working.

XandX2005

Thanks again for all the help. You guys rock!!!

One more thing... Does anyone make hoods that will fit on the Mafac Racer brake levers.

mixtemaniac

Be prepared to spend much more than the bike is worth to make it ridable. Since you've already started tearing the bike apart, it could be a fun project for learning about old French bikes. However, the costs will add up so quickly, you may find another project to be more worth while. Maybe you have a local bike co-op or shop with a great used parts inventory and costs will stay low. It looks like your stays are crushed from over tightening the kickstand. I would thoroughly inspect the frame for safety issues before putting any money into it.

jimmuller 

When you re-insert the cotter pins do not expect the locking nuts to pull them insufficiently. The pins are too soft for that and you'll strip the threads. They should be pressed (or pounded) in. The nuts are only to keep them tight. And once your ridden it a bit check the pins again.

As for painting, that orange is an original Peugeot color and the decals are original, distinctive, and in good shape. Some people don't like the orange (can't say that I do) but I'd advise against painting it because once it is painted it isn't original any more.

Yeah. MAFAC did. Sometimes you can find them on ebay. They do turn up occasionally. You can ride without them. What's wrong with the ones you have? They might be better than anything you can find. If anyone makes new ones I don't know about it, but there are millions of things I don't know about so don't take my word for it.

mixtemaniac is right about a kickstand having squashed your chainstays a bit. But as long as where they join the BB isn't coming apart they are probably okay. Chainstays are intentionally indented to accomodate the chainrings so they obviously don't depend on circular or conic shape for strength. But do check the joint integrity.

XandX2005

Original is best, but the paint is heavily oxidized and there are little ding marks scattered over the frame and fork.

The rubber is all dried out and cracking, and the adjustment barrel tip that sits inside the handle on the left side broke off. I dunno, I might use them, we'll see.

noglider 

I was at my LBS yesterday. I asked if they have a cotter press. The head mechanic said, "No, but we have a hammer."

auchencrow

The bearings are not fine. Replace them or you will accelerate wear. (They cost about 3 cents@ in bulk, or 10 cents at your LBS. )

If your cups and spindle is in decent shape you have averted one of the biggest potential expenses associated with rehabbing a French bike. Good for you. I generally cannot reuse cotters (the threads compress upon removal) but if you can get away with it make sure right is right and left is left. Also, they point in opposing directions. Otherwise you will find your cranks will not align with each other.

PS- next time use a cotter press (or at least a metal support under your crank arm when you beat on the cotter with a hammer.) Wood is compressible, and can result in ball bearings peening their way into your cups.

noglider 

I hope you're doing this to learn to work on bikes and not to save money. This is a very costly operation, given how much your bike needs. Once you're done, your bike may not be as nice as another bike which costs less. But if you are out to learn, this is a worthy project. You may even want to put the hubs back together as well as you can and learn that they're not worth keeping. But the experience can be valuable.

ahson

Restore the bike a bit like fixing up the saddle, retape the handlebar, repack the BB and headset. Those things won't cost you much money and you will get a very nice ride out of it I am sure. Regardless if the bike is an entry level or not, just take it and ride like a mad man! Enjoy your ride

Fenway

Go to an automotive supply shop. A good restorative polish will clean up the paint really nicely if you work gently and thoroughly with it.

They also have restorers for use on vinyl, rubber, and plastic. Although, on the cheap, you can also every few months smear those parts with petroleum jelly; let the parts sit for 24 hours before wiping off the excess with a clean cotton rag.

cmill189

There is far too much focus in the C&V forum on return for your money. Throw whatever money you want at it, ride and enjoy. My girlfriend has put at least $400 into her UO-18 and couldn't care less what it's worth. If you enjoy something and can afford it, it doesn't matter.

bigbossman 

I don't think it is so much ROI, as it is throwing money down a rat-hole for no good reason. By the time he's finished with this, he'll have $300 invested at least. And it'll still be a UO-8. Unless he's got the tools and time and can get the parts for nothing, this bike isn't really worth the expenditure - IMO. You can buy a lot of good bike for $300.

jimmuller 

+10. I supposed that highlights one difference between a flipper and an enthusiast. You don't want to waste money, of course, but "what it's worth" is meaningful in only two ways: 1. Do you plan to sell the bike for a profit? 2. Is there a cheaper way to do what you want?

If you intend to sell it and you're not a for-profit flipper then why bother with that project anyway? Look for the bike you really want (and don't be disappointed if you can't find a good one that is affordable).

If all you want is a functional bike to ride and you want to spend the least amount of money to get it, then buying one already spruced up from a co-op is probably the best bet. But that is to forego much of the fun. It's a hobby. If you have the aptitude and can afford it, then just enjoy it!

auchencrow

+10 For me too, there is much greater satisfaction in breathing life back into an old bike. I could buy practically any impeccable, pristine bike at market, but I prefer not to. (Much more fun to hunt 'em down and fix 'em up!)

XandX2005

I look at it as an adventure. I've never completely torn through a bicycle and wanted to give it a shot. Saw this bike on CL for 75, offered them 30 and ended up bringing it home.

As of this point, I really don't have intentions of buying a whole lot of new retail stuff for it. I'm gonna go down to the LBS and see if he has some cones that will match the ones for the front and rear hubs as well as get some new bearings for the front. I got a new suntour rear DR for 9 bucks. Still have to get new cables and housings and a front DR. A buddy of mine has some used tires that will fit, so all I need is some tubes. The wheels are actually running fairly true for just siting for the last 25 years, but I'm gonna try and true them myself because I need the experience. I'll just steal the seat of my hardtail mountain bike until I find another one.

And If worse comes to worse... well, we'll see what happens.

ahson

Rebuild/Restore a bike is a valuable experience to any bike lover. Regardless of the cost, if you like it why not. I am in the process of rebuilding an old Raleigh and I am having so much fun everytime I work on it. I am sure you will be the same.

bigbossman 

This is the right attitude to have for the project you've chosen. .

I've completely torn down and rebuilt more bikes than I can count, and I've learned everything I know by doing so. I've had more than my share of "loss-leaders" - bikes that really weren't worth the time or expense to overhaul in any rational sense, but gave me more knowledge and experience than I could have imagined. That's worth something.

This bike is a good candidate for a complete tear-down and overhaul and it is pretty much guaranteed that, whether you are successful or not, you will know a lot more when you are done. The reality is that the UO-8 is a bottom end bike with non-standard French issues to deal with. I'm fully aware that many people think the UO-8 a fine riding bike, and I will not dispute that... but it is at the bottom end and will present you with some special problems. You just need to be aware of that, so you can better calculate how much time, money, and energy you are ready to put into it.

ColonelJLloyd 

Well said, Bossman. I agree.

noglider 

BBM, you are describing ROI it's fine to choose a low ROI as long as it's an informed and willful choice. We want to inform him so he can make that choice. I'll respect whatever he decides, and now he's said that his main goal is to do a full teardown and rebuild.