Sex.

All the DA and then an Ultegra cassette? FOR SHAME. Totally kidding, that bike is one amazing ride. The porniest of bike porn. I think that 1992 Team Miyata frame is one of the prettiest there is. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Have you finally gotten around to riding it yet?

Wow, very nice.

I skipped this thread a few times and I wasn't planning on reading it.

I'm glad I did.

^^ All there is to say.

Wow what a beauty. I really dig those Team Miyata frames and that blue/white/yellow color scheme is bangin.

That is a sweet ride! Congrats on the stunning build.

Absolutely STUNNING, one of the sharpest bikes I've seen on here. I always go through a horrible dilemna with things that perfect and minty...do i really want to ride them? Ultimately I always do and once it gets its first chip, I feel much better. The thing I really love about your Team is that it has the TT cable guides, as opposed to the internal routing, but also the 130 rear spacing. What a PERFECT bike!

I have been seeing those frames on eBay for a few years now. Glad to see that someone finally put them to use! It turned out beautifully!

I was always skeptical of the price tag the seller had on those frames, but honestly, I probably would have bought one if he had a smaller one...

All the compliments are very kind, thanks. Surely the bike does not merit so much praise.

I notice in the 1990 color scheme that I patterned the bike after, it seems to have all the elements of a swedish national colors. Maybe Mr. Miyata was fond enough of some things from there that he used it on the 100th anniversary editon. I'm thinking I could also make the bars and brake housings: Orange and it would be dutch, white maybe french, and a darker blue finnish.

Even wondered why no one questioned why I didn't find a NOS SS rear derailleur -to shorten the chain a couple links or four and pick the last low hanging grams.

As for how hows it ride, I went for a ride around a couple blocks with regular shoes. I pedaled it lightly and it shifted quickly and cleanly. Wheels are true, hubs and drivetrain have low drag, I can set the brakes within a mm of the rims and have plenty of taught lever. Seemed lightweight and steering was sharply responsive if I wanted it to be, but didn't try to accelerate hard enough to really tell if I could flex the bottom bracket like I might expect.

I have had the cleats and shoes for awhile now, but hadn't looked at the user reviews until after ordering. Looks like so many riders from 10 years ago complained in reviews how hard they were to lock in and lock out. I'm thinking of running the plastic-cleated new 6700 Ultegra pedal.

Being relatively new to clipless - only been spinning them since last fall, and since I just have a the fear I won't be able to unclip and I'll spill like I did twice early in my little mtb-style current clips. The falls didn't harm the starlight black 312 at all, but I cut my hand, got a bruised shoulder and popped the inside of my shin on the downtube shifter for the RD and got a nice contusion and a few days limping.

- But the heck with what happened to me, it's the Team that I'm concerned about demolishing in a fall. A single dent from a simple fall and I'd be like unlucky Miyata Aero guy on eBay.

Or even riding over a sandy patch. One small group of errant sand grains thrown up by the front tire could bead blast the entire glossy underside of that downtube and leave it with... a patina. It would be like losing 25% of the value of your new car off the lot. Guess I'm a just a nervous nelly.

And I want to hold onto the vain pleasure of basking in the bling. Some mechanics in my LBS thought it was a show bike - stopped working on everything else - probably 3 days of backlog, and just ogled. For half an hour on a Saturday afternoon.

for nateintokyo, rotating the bars down to make the drops horizontal.

Dayumm gotta love them Miyatas!

A knock out bike that is very well photographed !

Alright, I just needed to get over the whole vanity thing. One LBS with stunned mechanics and a bulletin board with fawning admirers was enough. Must contain my ego before my head explodes.

I got it to ride it. To enjoy how it operates. To get the sensation of what it was like to be in the peloton in 1992. So enough with the fear and dreading and on to accomplishing what I set out to do.

I remove the DA pedals and put in 312's Shimano PD 530s mtb platform/ SPD clipless metal cleat. I put on the road shoes with cleats, and I'm away on a shakedown run.

About two blocks from my house, I put on the brakes for a stop sign, slow down to go thru the intesection, and start noticing a rubbing sound slowing me down. Brakes came out of adjustment I think as I work the brake pads with gloved hands. They're free and working normally, so where is the rubbing coming from? Stop and think the rear hub must have something wrong. No - it's the rear tire is rubbing on the NDS seat stay! How special, there's a nice rubber mark on the clinically clean white chain stay now to authenticate my ride. Like giving the bike a tatoo. The DS of the 7900 axle had some play in what must be hard chromed and slippery Shimano drop outs, so I re-align it and tighten the QR another half a turn and hope for the best.

Bummed out for a while, wondering how I'll clean the frame, and suspicious that it'll happen again, but the new setting seems to hold for the hold ride.

Impressions:

Bike is light, fits me very nicely, a little more buzzy than what I'm used to, but my hands seem to tolerate the 22 mile ride without any numbness.

Steering is very sharp at low speeds, but becomes nicely self-stabilizing at medium speeds and laser-scalpel precise at high speeds.

Brakes are more powerful than I'm used to. Without too much effort the front brake can stoppie the bike. Need to be careful.

Shifting and the drivetrain are astounding. On the rear there's just a little flicking sound, and I wonder if actually did it (because I'm running single-spaced sprockets). The front derailleur is rapid and the new chain just responds like an semi-automatic transmission. One annoyance though: the front derailleur DT shifter does not seem to have a stop in the low selection direction. Too aggressive of a downshift push will put the lever up against the front tire or keep it from steering right. Need to be careful.

The Rolls saddle is a little squeaky on my lycra riding shorts. Fore-aft positioning is nice, but I need to figure out how to tilt the tail down a little.

Bar positions come out about 9-10 cm lower than on my 312, while the saddle is the same height, so it seems like an aggressive racy crouch all the time. Will I get neck pain? It's probably worth 1 or 2 mph over the equal saddle/ bar height on the big 63 cm 312. With a light tailwind it seems like I can wind up to almost 30 mph in the drops.

Bottom bracket is smooth on cruising, but either it or the chain picks up some roughness when mashing hard in the big chainring. I wonder what I did wrong.

Despite the diminutive bearings in the hubs, the DT rims come across as substantial and stiff. Just a little lighter than the Open Pros on the 312. Maybe the Gatorskins are a little harsh on bumps, I think the Grand Prix 4 Seasons smooth out the ride better on the 312. Still thinking about going to GP 4000S tires.

I have to figure out how to get the rubber scuff mark off the nds chain stay, but I'm fairly pleased so far.

Sounds like the BB could be adjusted a bit. Not sure if too loose, or too tight, but I suspect it may be very slightly loose.

So, a little fine tuning left. Sounds good on the riding. Congrats with the result!

You should be able to set a stop on your derailleur. There will be two little screws to set stops in either direction. If you set your low stop just enough so you can properly shift into the gear it should also keep you DT lever from going places that it doesn't belong.

if you're that worried about getting stone chips on the bottom of the downtube, you should look into those 3m things that are super clear that they put on the front hood of their cars to prevent stone chips, my buddy has it on his brand new lexus and it works really well, you don't even notice that it's there

The front derailleur is adjusted very properly for it's low stop. The problem occurs because the cable goes slack and it can't resist the shift lever's motion. I cannot understand how a slack cable on a normal-low derailleur could resist the motion of the shift lever past the downtube. It's the shift lever itself that seems to have no built in rotation stop like every other one I think I've used since about '73. Maybe for weight reduction?

Anyone know if there's some variable setting inside the 7700 lever mechanism itself which I missed or ignored in the instructions?

mapleleafs - sounds like good advice. Where is it available?

A few nitpicks: 1) as mentioned and corrected already the bars are now set in an aesthetic manner. 2) The brake cables are way too long! Anything more than an inch past the cable fixing point looks terribly amateur. 3) The saddle angle. The Rolls saddle should not be pointing down in the front, this will make your weight shift forward putting additional stress on your neck (which you were complaining of!) If you look on the front side of the seatpost, you will find a single adjustment screw which is meant to allow you to fine tune the angle of the saddle and get it perfectly level. 4) The Q/R lever tension. If the rear wheel has shifted this means that you do not have sufficient clamping pressure of the Q/R lever. Do you know how a Q/R lever works? Many newbies who have grown up in the lawyer lips period simply do not understand how a Q/R lever works. While many Shimano Q/R levers are not the most effective, I have never heard of any Dura-Ace ones not having sufficient clamping tension.

You should be aware that all non-pre-stretched braided cables do have a settling in period when first fitted and will need a slight tightening. Contrary to popular belief, the metal is not stretching, but rather the different strands are simply bedding in and any "voids" between the strands are taken up.

Sweet, sweet bike. I've been dreaming of a Team Miyata for a long time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Citoyen du Monde

1) as mentioned and corrected already the bars are now set in an aesthetic manner.

Did what I could.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Citoyen du Monde

2) The brake cables are way too long! Anything more than an inch past the cable fixing point looks terribly amateur.

I can do something about this. But in the meantime, my apologies for exhibiting a coarse sense of aesthetic and so much gratituitous suggestion of braking-power-robbing cable housing deflection.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Citoyen du Monde

3) The saddle angle. The Rolls saddle should not be pointing down in the front, this will make your weight shift forward putting additional stress on your neck (which you are complaining of!) If you look on the front side of the seatpost, you will find a single adjustment screw which which is meant to allow you to fine tune the angle of the saddle and get it perfectly level.

I noticed this too, but on assembly, I've rotated the clamp bolt on my DA 7400 seatpost all the way forward. No matter how much I loosen the adjustment set screw - or even if I remove it, the small clamp block washer around the bolt restricts the adjustment from sliding any further forward in the slot, and hence the saddle rails from tilting the saddle's tail down/ nose up any further. Is this is a consequence of the saddle rails or the seatpost, I don't know. I'm tempted to try a Nitto Crystal Fellow in this size to see if it allows more tilt. Or try another saddle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Citoyen du Monde

4) The Q/R lever tension. If the rear wheel has shifted this means that you do not have sufficient clamping pressure of the Q/R lever. Do you know how a Q/R lever works? Many newbies who have grown up in the lawyer lips period simply do not understand how a Q/R lever works. While many Shimano Q/R levers are not the most effective, I have never heard of any Dura-Ace ones not having sufficient clamping tension.

I'm 47 years old - so perhaps not a newbie as you suggest who might have learned this facet of his hobby in the lawyer lip period. I have in my lifetime owned exactly zero (0) lawyer lip bicycles. I have operated Q/R levers for 38 years now, since I was 9, with nary an issue that I can recall.

This one has only seemed to hold when clamped with about 2X the lever force I'm am used to on my other bikes, including a Miyata 312 which has been using wheels with the same-era Ultegra 6700 hubs. It does happen to have the difference of stamped & painted 126mm dropouts that I'm squeezing a 130mm axle into (vs forged and chrome-plated 130mm dropouts), but I'd think the force would have to be higher on the 312 because I'm having to pull the aft-end of the dropouts up to the locknuts (not cold set) which in turn has to deflect the aft ends of the chain- and seat- stays away from the bike's center plane even more.

No suggestion for the 7700 front derailleur lever able to rotate past the downtube when pushed?

is it possible that the first piece that goes on the frame (before any other shifter bits) it not set in the proper direction? there is a 'stop' on 1 side only, i believe it should be pointing forward.

in this pic (i stole from velobase ) you can see the little block that protrudes into the outer opening of that base piece, this stops the shifter from rotating forward beyond the DT. you probably know this, but it's the only thing i can think of that would cause the issue you describe.