Ive been removing rust "freckles" from chrome by scrubbing with wet aluminum foil (with great results on flat areas, not so much between spokes). Just wondering if anyone knows an easier way that involves less elbow grease? My joints thank you.

you can try a brass brush lightly and see what happens. it is softer than chrome and steel and some aluminum, but i can scratch paint and some softer alloys.

If you search around here on "oxalic acid," you'll see a lot of discussion; personally, I tried it and didn't think it was miraculous enough to justify the toxic waste it produces. Others have had good results with other acid solutions. Me, I'll stick with bronze-wire brushes, on the Dremel for small stuff and on an electric drill for bigger parts. Bronze wool pads are also excellent (look for them at marine-supply stores).

I think id prefer a chemical that just eats it to scrubbing...would steel wool be a bad idea? I dont think I have access to any marine stores in my city

Steel wool = bad idea. I would always use chemical means and if I thought I needed "wool" it'd be bronze wool.

With anything that you can fit into a tub use brown vinegar you will be astonished by the results.
First submerge and clean over night in kero.
Second submerge in brown vinegar over night.
Third as soon as it comes out of vinegar scrub with a cream cleanser like what you use to clean wash basins using an old tooth brush.
Forth give it a good spray with water dispersant.
If you have a air compressor and gun to use between stages that helps if not thats OK.
You will be amazed it doesnt matter how rusted a component is if there's any metal under it you can 100% remove all rust the process is not harsh on the metal itself and I wish I had some more before and after pic's to show but this is all I have.

This derailer is not that bad and was an easy job the freewheel or cassette is back in use and looks like new the chain could have been done as the bike basically never ridden since new in fact all these components were easy against other jobs I,ve done.

On chrome plating, you start by washing off as much debris as you can(chuncks of debris, small or large, can prove to be harder than the chrome, believe it or not).

Then you use the brass brush to flick off the more stubborn debris. Wipe the surfaces off with a damp rag.

Then you switch to aluminum foil and rub away. Then you coat the part with wax(do not wax the brake surfaces on the rim).

As for an easy way to get between spokes - take the wheel apart! Cleaning wheels is a real pain and you just have to be patient and do the work. Personally, it is one of the restoration tasks I derive little pleasure from.

B4:




After:

If you just want to smarten up some pitted, rust flecked chrome, gentle rubbing with fine steel wool soaked in oil works easily and well. Chromium plate is extremely hard and won't be scratched or damaged unless you use considerable pressure on the steel wool. I've cleaned endless chrome parts this way and never had a problem.

Is that the re-plating technique?

Turtle wax chrome wheel cleaner works wonders on surface rust, just apply and scrub with a stiff toothbrush.

Takes maybe ten minutes a wheel depending on the rust and it works on most other areas very well also and does not appear to harm painted surfaces on bikes.


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That sounds great, but Id be scared to take the bike apart. Perhaps I could use the vinegar with flour to make a paste and leave it on to soak?

Im checking out your site, I think Ill find some useful stuff!

No you must remove the component you wish clean and fully submerge it its amazing you can actually watch the reaction with the rust when its in brown vinegar, it bubbles and leaves a rusty foam floating on top.
Its great on chrome parts as well. I must admit and give credit to mark on a local forum for this idea.
Here its only $1.45 for 2 litre bottles so its cheap to stock up and fill large tubs and reuse over and over.

Vinegar = Acetic Acid. Its just another acid in the arsenal. Several acids are decent rust removers.

I think Ill buy a big jug of the vinegar and see where it gets me. Really my only problem is the wheels, so not quite sure how that'll go

brass brush and phosphoric acid has done me well.. the results from oxalic look impressive but i have yet to try it

+1
Contrary to popular belief, things don't just disappear once they leave your garbage can/sink/etc. I'm by No means perfect myself, but some things are rather easy to avoid. Not that all "chemicals" are bad. Some of the more mild ones aren't really harmful at all.

Anyway, a little scrubbing never actually hurt anyone. It'll probably keep your joints in better working order in the long run to use them like that. You're doing more damage if you type on your keyboard a lot.

I like Oxalic Acid for rust but when I do wheels I use Navel Jelly and do a section at a time. I only use OA when I have a lot of parts to do, I make up a big batch and use a heating tray under it with a small recirculating pump to keep it from settling and turning my parts yellow if left to long.

Glenn

Navel Jelly? Would that stay put while it did its work?

Toxic waste?

Give me a break. It's dirty water no more acidic than diluted vinegar water you might clean windows with.

Also, you can negate the oxalic acid by adding some baking soda to the solution when you're finished.

^ That you can.

Neutralize, but not "negate." You're then left with a pH-neutral solution of sodium oxalate, which is fairly poisonous. Search around this site for discussions on that topic. I'm not saying you shouldn't use the stuff -- just be informed about it.

Naval jelly will stay put and work in an hour or so. Rub it in after an hour and wipe clean with a wet towel or rinse with water. Oxalic works great as well, but requires submersion.

Yeah, Brian, referring to oxalic acid as toxic waste is off base. It's safe to pour out in your yard or down your sink.