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Front rack kludge

Old 06-15-11, 10:02 AM
  #1  
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Front rack kludge

A front rack was always in the plan for my faux rando Miyata but I never got around to ordering a proper one. I did have one of the $9.99 Nashbar/Sunlite racks that mount to canti bosses and some AL rod laying around and a little time so......







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Old 06-15-11, 10:04 AM
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Way to fabricate, Top! I suspect, though, that with much of anything in that bag you're not going to be pleased with the handling.
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Old 06-15-11, 10:16 AM
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The bag is a temp measure, just for a windbreaker and some paperwork for this weekend's 180 mile charity ride.
I will gladly entertain recommendations/suggestions on a proper, boxy, French-style bag that won't break the bank.

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Old 06-15-11, 10:22 AM
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I love a good rack kludge, but wouldn't the rack be able to pivot forward around the axis of the bolts on the upper end of the new strut?
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Old 06-15-11, 10:25 AM
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Did you bend the rack to make this work? I think I want to do whatever you did, because most other racks are too expensive.
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Old 06-15-11, 10:30 AM
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I've used both the VO Campagne and Ostrich handlebar box/bags. The Ostrich is larger and all of the closures are the elastic loop type, which I prefer as they can be opened and closed with one hand. The Ostrich is about 30% more. On the other hand, the VO bag's top "hinge" is on the front of the bag. The Ostrich's is on the side closest to the rider. I prefer the former.

A stem mounted decaleur would work well on your bike.
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Old 06-15-11, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris_in_Miami View Post
I love a good rack kludge, but wouldn't the rack be able to pivot forward around the axis of the bolts on the upper end of the new strut?
I torqued the joint pretty tight, using both lock washers and aircraft nuts. A 4mm allen wrench and an 8mm crescent will ride with me until I see how it holds up.

Originally Posted by noglider View Post
Did you bend the rack to make this work? I think I want to do whatever you did, because most other racks are too expensive.
No racks were injured in this project. I did have to tweak the rear bracket to play nice with both the fender clearance and brake caliper. Version 1.0 had shorter struts attached to the fork at almost right angles. I went to the longer strut and shallower angle to reduce the load on the joint.

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Old 06-15-11, 11:00 AM
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Were the ends of the aluminum rod flattened just by hammering or did it have to be heated first?
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Old 06-15-11, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by folderfan550 View Post
Were the ends of the aluminum rod flattened just by hammering or did it have to be heated first?
Pounded flat with a metric ball peen; no heat involved.

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Old 06-15-11, 09:29 PM
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Metric, huh? What are you, a commie or something?
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Old 06-15-11, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
Metric, huh? What are you, a commie or something?
This from a true public house turned small brewery across the river. One of my favorite places.

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Old 06-15-11, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
Metric, huh? What are you, a commie or something?
Well, I did have Prokofiev's score to 'Alexander Nevsky' in the Ipod while pounding......

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Old 06-16-11, 02:08 AM
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- You could be nerdy and find the moment about the bolt and figure out what the max distributed load can be on the rack. Or if you notice that it's applying too much of a load, a cheap and irreversible fix would be an application of jb weld between the members and the bolt. Torque it down, let it dry and move on. Or for a reversible alternative some lock tight.
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Old 06-16-11, 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
Metric, huh? What are you, a commie or something?
Top just lives too close to Quebec. Lots of French influence.
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Old 06-16-11, 05:58 AM
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Closer to Quebec City than to Boston, in fact.
But this morning my heart is on Causeway St. Go Bruins!!!

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Old 06-16-11, 07:16 AM
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I like it!

That Nashbar rack has more potential than people realize. But I share the concern that the secondary struts will pivot forward under load, regardless how tight you make the bolts and regardless of JBWeld &c. I would add a second pair of aluminum struts, just like the first pair but more or less horizontal. That'll stabilize the whole thing nicely.
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Old 06-16-11, 08:21 AM
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All I see are the two struts. What is the other attachment point?
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Old 06-16-11, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
All I see are the two struts. What is the other attachment point?
My suggestion is to have 2 P-clips on each fork leg, each holding a short aluminum strut that mounts to the same mounting hole on the rack at the other end. The two struts and the fork thus form a triangle about 2" on each side.
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Old 06-16-11, 08:33 AM
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I'm still missing something. I don't see it attaching to the fork crown or brake hole. How many attachment points are there? It sounds like you're saying there are two, but that can't be.
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Old 06-16-11, 08:48 AM
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The Nashbar rack has three attachment points:
1. top center for hole in fork crown
2. lower left for brake boss on left fork blade
3. lower right for brake boss on right fork blade.

Top's fork has one attachment point, the hole in fork crown, to which he has attached the rack at point #1.

To which he has added one P-clip on each fork leg, one holding an aluminum strut connected to rack at point #2, the other at point #3.

I propose adding another P-clip on each fork leg, one holding a second aluminum strut connected to rack at point #2, the other at point #3.

Thus the three points on the rack will be attached to the fork at five points. Here, I photoshopped it for you. Note I added only one extra strut, on the left side, didn't bother with the right fork blade.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
top's rack-1.jpg (79.3 KB, 69 views)

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Old 06-16-11, 12:00 PM
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Thank you. That clears it up. Your photoshop skills continue to impress me.
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Old 06-16-11, 12:35 PM
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The extra P clips and struts will be ugly and I don't they're necessary. I don't think the rack will pivot at those points. Ride it for a while and prove me wrong.
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Old 06-16-11, 06:45 PM
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I have a Nashbar front rack that I was planning to install on a sidepull equipped bike using the P-clips but haven't done any trial fitting yet. Is the OP saying that you can't P-clip the rack directly to the fork because of clearance necessary for the brake, making the fabricated struts necessary? Shoot, my plan down in flames...
Well, this thread will be a useful reference when I get around to trying out that installation, which probably won't be until the winter at the earliest, since the bike is taken to bits and awaiting a complete stripping & repaint... [ducks & runs]
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Old 06-17-11, 12:17 PM
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I'm ordering one of them there racks.
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Old 06-17-11, 05:39 PM
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fear not, old's cool! Here's my solution with the same rack:



And some thumbnails of the details:

The first two are an attempt to show the metal piece that I bent into shape as an attachment point for the brake boss. I believe the metal was taken from a trashed 1970's kiddie seat rack. It took a bunch of trial and error and rebending. I used some vise grips to do the deed





The rest show how I pulled the brake off and threaded it through the rack. I don't think all sidepulls would work, but old sidepulls are plentiful and I think some trial and error might work.







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