WNG

+1 to DiegoFrogs' advice. Those Origin8 clamp stops won't work for you. You have cable guides above the BB shell, not below it. The cables will likely contact the down tube. You need one with the stops 180 degree apart.

Meantime, keep searching for a low cost set of brifters (7 spd) while you simply ride with the friction shifters. I think your desired goal will eventually lead you to brifters.

Again

Yes, the guides are kind of to the side, but well above the tube.

It actually looks more like 120 degrees apart. In any event, the likelihood of finding cable stops in that exact position sounds rather slim!

Well, even IF I found brifters that I am prepared to buy the cable stop problem would still exist, right? I am more and more convinced I should just forget about all that current technology and be content to ride with what was current when I could not afford even that.
It was a $400+ mistake to buy all these parts. The purpose of this old bike was really only to show whether I could take advantage of the benefits and joy of regular riding, and if that proved positive, invest in a current techno bike. For that I could have simply cleaned and tuned the bike, bought the saddle and gone on rides.
Dammit, how old does one have to become to get smart enough to make the right decisions at the right time?

Again

Ok, I am now moving on to damage control. By that I mean visualizing the bike I can be content with, taking stock of what I should do with all the stuff I bought, and/or deciding whether I need something else.

I am content with these parts I bought:
1. the leather saddle. It is installed and waiting for me to shape it.

2. the triple chain wheel,

7-speed freewheel,

Altus derailer,


and 6,7,8 speed chain, waiting to be installed.

3. the ergonomic down bar and adjustable stem.
4. the Aero brake levers, although my old ones would have been fine too.
5. the pedals/clips.

I have started to install the new head stem and bars without problems.
The brake levers are a different story. I really did not expect problems installing brake cables, but they are giving me trouble. The cable sets I bought have lead lumps on both ends and I can't see any way to fit either end through the lever or brakes without cutting off the lead. This is another unexpected complication, because as kids we simply fed the cable through a slit in the connecting end or in a ferrule and squeezed it closed with pliers. Now they try to sell us ferrules online like they were made of gold! See here, plus shipping:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...e+ends&x=0&y=0
I guess my LBS will give me a couple for a buck or less.
My LBS also will replace the chain wheel and freewheel for $35.
The pedals I can screw on myself.

That should do it.
I have bought a tiny frame-mount pump, a spare tube and tire levers with an under-saddle bag to hold it all, and a bottle with cage on the frame, as well as a bike computer.
I can't think of anything else I should need for now to enjoy a bit of riding.
Can't wait to finally get into the saddle!

WNG

Don't feel too bad. We've seen this before, AND some of us are also guilty of it too. One jumps into the deep end full of motivation and ideas. And get tunnel vision on certain ideas, and get stuck on them no matter what the advice received. Sometimes you just have to go through it and experience it to fully understand the advice.

Enjoy the bike, get riding then start tinkering.
As for the cable stop, Origin 8 isn't the only game in town. Problem Solvers is another brand, and you can still find Shimano chromed cable stops that matches your vintage bike if you search.
Aesthetics aside, you can always flip that Origin 8 upside down and be done with it.

Can't visualize your cabling ferrule problem. Maybe it's best to take to a LBS and have them also attend to this while there for the drivetrain upgrade. It'll be little trouble for them.

You'll be happy when you're done. A white on white steed. It'll look great and ride great too...it's a Univega.

Again

Thanks for the kind words.

I think I confused the issue. Without cutting the existing tips off I cannot insert the cable into the lever. I realize now what I need are new cable tips. I guess they have to be squeezed onto the cable end with pliers (as kids we used to make a knot in the cable! )

I sure hope to prove you RIGHT!

Coop500

Worst case Wal-Mart sells a cable set for less than $10 that has the cable ends you need. I've bought them in the past when working on bikes for friends that needed a cable and it was after hours for the LBS.

Again

I only see boxes of 100, and they also have nipples on it, which I can't slip through the brake lever hole.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Promax-Inn...em+Description

not_jason

The cables I usually buy have stops on both ends, the idea being that you cut off the side that doesn't match your lever, and keep the side that does. I can also vouch for the walmart cable pack. It's about 5 bucks and it's in most stores in the bike section. Comes with two brake cables, two shift cables, and all the ends and housing you need.

Again

I see it now. The friendly mechanic at my LBS showed me! Now I can use my new white casings, as long as I don't ruin them by cutting them to the right length!

Coop500

You have to go into the store. It's in the bike section, they call it a "Tune Up Kit" or something like that. It comes with brake cables, shifter cables, housing, the cable "sleeves" that go over the end of the housing once it's cut, and crimp on cable ends.

Again

Oh, now I understand. I even think I have seen the kit there. Well, I need to use my white set for now, but it is good to know where to find black ones when needed.

Again

I took my bike with the new drive train parts to my LBS yesterday. These guys are so nice and helpful it is refreshing to see. YHe mechanic who took care of me explained that he may be able to squeeze the new 7-speed freewheel into the frame, but suggests Ileave the old one in place and just go with the new triple front (which may also require some BB change!). The main reason I was looking for a new tranny was that I needed more hill-flattening help than I had with the 42:29 best gear ratio, giving me 39.1 gear-inches. Even without the new freewheel I will have at least a 1:1 high gear ratio, giving me 27 gear-inches. So that's fine.
I left him with all the parts, and will have to give him a week or so to get to it.
Which is OK with me, although I am itching to finish the job and start riding the Univega.
To make the wait easier I shall give my old Lance MTB a good scrubbing and take it around the block a few times.

Again

My LBS mechanic called a couple of days earlier than promised and I picked up the bike yesterday.
He only installed the new triple, FD and new chain, suggesting that it may not be a good idea to bend the down stays for the wider freewheel. So the freewheel and the new RD go back to the store (bless Walmart for their generous return policy!).
Today I assembled the remaining parts, and here is the proud result:

WNG

What happen to the aero brake levers?

mainstreetexile 

Is your seatpost in backwards? Cool bike but that is a very 'walmart-looking' crankset. Are the chainrings riveted or bolted on?

Again

When I got the Ultegras from a friend I returned the Aeros. BUt then the mechanic said I shouldn't let him squeeze the new 7-gear freewheel into the frame, and I had to fall back on my old levers. Which isn't all bad though. Later this week I am getting hoods for them.

Again

Yes, I turned the post some time ago. I was experimenting with my position, but now that I have raised the bar I will try it the other way again.

Is that bad? You see, I don't know what "Walmart looks" are supposed to be like. All I know is that it is Shimano made (Shimano Chain Wheel FC-M151), and that it works just the way it's supposed to. And that it cost me a whole $25, with free shipping to my house.

Had to go and look - no bolts showing, so I suppose it's riveted. Is that bad too? Maybe not as long as it holds together, right?

Again

Small problem: The mechanic seems to have lost the quick release/adjustment screw off my front brake. May as well buy new brakes anyway, since my pads are pretty shot.
Question: Do I need 45 to 47 reach calipers like these: https://cgi.ebay.com/New-Shimano-Sora...item4cf63f6bc1

or the long reach like these: https://cgi.ebay.com/TEKTRO-R556-ROAD...tem2eb60f75e1?
https://www.cyclingcloseouts.com/ebay...7592010138.jpg

I measured what I thought "reach" means, from center of mounting bolt to center of rim, which is about 2 inches, (50mm). That means that the "long reach" (at 55-73mm) could be too long, right?

Again

...or, are these a better choice?
https://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-CANNONDALE-C...61750774795331

Again

Never mind, guys - I found MINE!
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:L:OC:US:1123
You didn't think I would put something *unwhite* on my Univega, did you?

WNG

The white Tektros look really cool, but keep in mind of the type of brake bolt mounting you have on your Univega. Modern brakes use recessed brake nuts.

DiegoFrogs

Just have the mechanic fix what he botched. Shouldn't cost you a dime.

Again

I noticed that. Does that mean that they won't fit? Say it isn't so! ;(

Again

I intended to do that, but then I thought what the hell, it was an easy mistake to make and he did a good job otherwise. Then I realized that my brakes weren't that good anyway, and I should replace them. Then I found the white Tektros, and I had to have them!

WNG

The rear brake bridge and fork crown needs to be drilled out to the diameter of the recessed nut. If such an alteration is unacceptable (ie. expensive, sentimental bike frame), Sheldon Brown's site explains his method of installing modern calipers to old frames. Basically, the front caliper is mounted to the rear, and the rear caliper becomes the front one, with the nut tighten "inside" the fork crown via the opening of the steerer tube below.
Hope you can visualize it.